You Can Say It, "I Told You So! "
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 178
You Can Say It, "I Told You So! "
I posted here a little while back about getting my great grandmother's sewing machines running, a Singer 328k and a 66. Someone on here told me that i might find myself using them as my go-to machines in place of my more modern 1996 Baby Lock plastic piece of junk that i always loved, until I sewed with the 328k. The 66 is still not up to par, waiting on my DH to fix the wiring problem with it. The light would dim down to nothing when you stepped on the pedal. He consulted with an electrical engineer that he works with on how to proceed and he has the materials he needs but hasn't done anything with it yet. Anyway, the 328k stitches are so much neater and stronger and just more secure overall than with the Baby Lock. I haven't used the BL in weeks now. I'm so glad i found this site and brought up these old machines that I thought were useless.
#3
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Congrats on getting the 328 up and running! You'll probably like the 66 even better for piecing. I know I prefer straight stitch only machines for quilt work. My 66 was my main machine for quite a while. I've since switched to my Rodney machine and a 1908 model 27 Singer named Ella. They're so much quieter and smoother than most zigzag machines.
The wiring problem can't be too severe. There are a bunch of wiring diagrams in this section explaining how to wire the light and motor. It sounds to me like the light and motor are wired in series with each other instead of being wired in parallel.
Rodney
The wiring problem can't be too severe. There are a bunch of wiring diagrams in this section explaining how to wire the light and motor. It sounds to me like the light and motor are wired in series with each other instead of being wired in parallel.
Rodney
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 178
#5
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
Here is a generic diagram of how the Singers should be wired. Even though they don't look exactly like this, this is the way to do it.
It might be the same as your electrical engineers drawing, but it don't look like it to me.
If your 66 is completely OEM, I have a factory wiring diagram for it. I can't post it here as it's an old copyrighted drawing and I've had the moderators delete my posts due to that. If you want that diagram PM me your email and I'll email it to you.
Joe
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 178
I believe it was originally a treadle machine that was converted. This is a picture of the motor. The outlet box that was attached under the cabinet was not original as i was told when i posted a picture of it here. Also important to note is that the cabinet that the 66 is in, under which is the outlet box pictured here, was probably for the 328k as the cabinet that the 328k is in is a treadle cabinet so I'm thinking they were swapped at some point although the 328k just has one plug so I'm not sure why the 328k would have been in the cabinet with the 2 outlet box under it labeled for the light and the motor.
#7
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millville, NJ
Posts: 1,835
Here's the part you need if the old cord block is no good:
shop.sew-clic.com/Cord-Set-Block-Style-700-143-SCE143.htmass
You can find this from other internet vendors or the local sew n vac also. You can also replace the motor and controller if needed. If your husband is familiar with universal motors this is pretty basic stuff and shouldn't take an engineer to figure out.
Jon
PS--Looks like the link isn't working so put "sewing machine cord set block" in search engine. Almost identical to your old cord block.
shop.sew-clic.com/Cord-Set-Block-Style-700-143-SCE143.htmass
You can find this from other internet vendors or the local sew n vac also. You can also replace the motor and controller if needed. If your husband is familiar with universal motors this is pretty basic stuff and shouldn't take an engineer to figure out.
Jon
PS--Looks like the link isn't working so put "sewing machine cord set block" in search engine. Almost identical to your old cord block.
Last edited by jlhmnj; 11-02-2014 at 06:46 PM.
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
If it's the dual receptacle setup then that's super easy. The outlet labeled "motor" is a switched outlet controlled by the foot pedal and the "light" outlet is just like a regular wall outlet.
Sew-Classic.com carries them too.
http://shop.sew-classic.com/Cord-Set...143-SCE143.htm
Rodney
Sew-Classic.com carries them too.
http://shop.sew-classic.com/Cord-Set...143-SCE143.htm
Rodney
#9
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
YES! We did! "told you so" I think you have a great combination of old machines. There is just something about that old heavy metal - well made for starters. I'm always amazed at how the old 66s will clean up no matter how bad they are - well with in reason...
#10
Take the 66 and make a hand crank out of it, and you (or DH) don't have to worry about the electric working or not working. I have recently done just that to one my son found at a yard sale and brought in to me. I Love Love Love it.
And for anyone who is interested, I have the whole "get up" for the electric part sitting under the table that someone can have; just PM me.
And for anyone who is interested, I have the whole "get up" for the electric part sitting under the table that someone can have; just PM me.
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