binding buddy
#21
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,664
I just watched Jenny's way of binding and can't thank you enough for posting this, it is the first tutorial I have seen that makes sense. I think I can do it now.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 449
I do have a 2 1/2 x 18 inch ruler which I use all the time, for binding and my own jelly roll strips. Mine was really inexpensive using a coupon at michael's. I have never made bias binding but might try it. I think the fabric in the video was folded. There might be other rulers out there called stirs.
#24
Super Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
You can see when she finished cutting the straight strips that the fabric is double.
I watched both videos (were there three?). Jenny Doan has a good method, but when you start the binding at the very beginning, you can measure where the ending will be cut! ! ! Lay the folded-in-half binding on the quilt where you will be sewing it - front or back. The beginning can be eight or nine inches from a corner. (I do eight inch potholders with this method.) Open the binding flat for a few inches and fold the top edge of binding strip down so that it lays along the edge of the quilt, making a triangle. Press this triangle very well; steam or starch is good. Refold the strip and start sewing right near the corner, about seven or eight inches from the beginning, and turn your corner as usual. Go all around the quilt until you get about 10 to 12 inches from where you started sewing. All you need for overlap is the 2.5 inches of your binding. If you have more, cut the end binding strip at the base of the triangle: that is the perfect length. Now, open both ends flat, bring them right sides together and twist them so that they are at right angles; just the same way you sewed all the other seams on the binding. Be sure you are sewing from side to side. If it is wrong, just twist them the other way. Sew on the crease of the triangle you pressed in at the beginning.
I also finger press that seam open to reduce bulk at that point. Be sure to test before you cut off the little triangles.
Happy binding.
I watched both videos (were there three?). Jenny Doan has a good method, but when you start the binding at the very beginning, you can measure where the ending will be cut! ! ! Lay the folded-in-half binding on the quilt where you will be sewing it - front or back. The beginning can be eight or nine inches from a corner. (I do eight inch potholders with this method.) Open the binding flat for a few inches and fold the top edge of binding strip down so that it lays along the edge of the quilt, making a triangle. Press this triangle very well; steam or starch is good. Refold the strip and start sewing right near the corner, about seven or eight inches from the beginning, and turn your corner as usual. Go all around the quilt until you get about 10 to 12 inches from where you started sewing. All you need for overlap is the 2.5 inches of your binding. If you have more, cut the end binding strip at the base of the triangle: that is the perfect length. Now, open both ends flat, bring them right sides together and twist them so that they are at right angles; just the same way you sewed all the other seams on the binding. Be sure you are sewing from side to side. If it is wrong, just twist them the other way. Sew on the crease of the triangle you pressed in at the beginning.
I also finger press that seam open to reduce bulk at that point. Be sure to test before you cut off the little triangles.
Happy binding.
#25
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 16,421
I fold the end of my starting strip into a hst and tuck the other end of the binding inside just enough to hid the raw edge with no extra bulk in the binding. No measuring or twisting or sewing ends together. Binding is tedious enough without doing all that.
#26
You are right!! Do they call you Eagle Eye? Obviously, she does not know what she is doing. I had to look at the 54 sec. mark several times. Now, I have spent enough time on this subject.
#27
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Central Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
Posts: 7,695
I use the same joining method she uses, but I have found that if I subtract 1/4 inch from the binding width, before I trim the ends for joining, I get a better fit on my bias binding. Might just be me, but I can't stand having to squish the binding to avoid puckers. I have never made straight binding so I can't speak to that. I am going to try her method of joining the sections of binding together because I have always cut the ends at 45 degrees and fought them together. She uses right angles to join, then trims. Brilliant! As far as the special rulers, no thanks.
#28
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: The Colony, TX
Posts: 3,364
OK to me it looks like the fabric is folded. But I don't see the issue in that as long as your fabric is folded correctly you won't get a V. I don't open my fabric up to cut binding, I cut with my fabric folded just like I cut any other strip.
#29
Super Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Ballwin, MO
Posts: 4,256
I'd better not watch the video - just spent an hour trying to figure out how to join the ends of the binding on my quilt (even had Fons & Porter instructions sitting next to me). Seems like I can never get it right, so sometimes I just tuck one end into the other. If only there were a way I could really understand and remember from one quilt to the next.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE
#30
peace
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