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Hand Basting for Machine Quilting

Hand Basting for Machine Quilting

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Old 08-27-2015, 06:49 AM
  #31  
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I either hand baste or spray baste, I really would prefer the spray basting, but because of cost I don't use it often. When I hand baste, I baste about every 3".
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Old 08-28-2015, 02:50 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Manalto View Post
Thanks for this. I've seen the wrap-it-around-a-board method before; I didn't realize that Sharon Shamber invented it. I'm going to try it; I like its compactness. One thing I did right, or at least according to her method, was the herringbone stitch, which I mistakenly called a zigzag stitch. 2 1/2" spacing seems tight, but the stability is probably needed for some projects. (I spaced my stitches 3 of Shrek's fingers apart.) She doesn't explain why you shouldn't quilt over the stitches. It seems so much easier to remove it at the end, rather than de-stabilize an area you're going to quilt. Do you know why?

I looked up DMC tatting thread and it comes in several weights. Do you know which weight would be good for this purpose?
I use Sharon Schamber's method. Much prefer it over pins. I plan my basting around my patch design. I tend to do Stitch in ditch with walking foot first from one side of quilt to opposite side. I do all my vertical rows and then go back and do the horizontal rows. I baste so that the vertical SID never crosses the basting threads and then I snip the basting thread on the horizontal rows right as I approach the basting thread. It is much easier to pull out the basting that way. Then with all the basting thread out, I can go back in the blocks and do FMQ. I use thread I get on sale at JoAnn's. It is coat and Clarks XP Heavy Duty white. I think it was Sharon Schamber who said to only use white so it would never bleed.

i am not confident in my FMQ to do SID by free motion quilting although I imagine experienced quilters do one block at a time and then move on. My way, you are moving the quilt a lot to do the SID but I like the results. Whatever works for you is acceptable!
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:22 AM
  #33  
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I'm going to try that method. In fact, last night I went out looking for an 8' folding table.

Maureen, is your avatar a variation of 'Storm at Sea'?
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:01 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by tessagin View Post
I baste using the Sharon Schamber method. I have an 8 ft. bench I can work on with plenty of space. Pretty quick after you get started.
Tess, my 8' bench arrived today - got a great deal on a new, unblemished melamine-top folding table. I'm looking forward to getting started on the SS method this week. (See, I do pay attention sometimes!) Do you think it might be useful to get a piece of masonite cut for the top? It occurs to me all that needle action (especially in the hands of a newbie oaf) might scratch up the surface.

Last edited by Manalto; 09-01-2015 at 07:04 AM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:55 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Manalto View Post
Do you think it might be useful to get a piece of masonite cut for the top? It occurs to me all that needle action (especially in the hands of a newbie oaf) might scratch up the surface.
I put my acrylic cutting board under the area I'm basting, and just move it along as I progress.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:03 AM
  #36  
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Sharon states what she uses in weight. I pull the thread as I go.I have done Sharon's method and it's quite easy to quilt over the basting then pull the basting thread out. I haven't had a problem. What's nice is being able to baste then put it away if you can't get right to the quilting process.
Originally Posted by Manalto View Post
Thanks for this. I've seen the wrap-it-around-a-board method before; I didn't realize that Sharon Shamber invented it. I'm going to try it; I like its compactness. One thing I did right, or at least according to her method, was the herringbone stitch, which I mistakenly called a zigzag stitch. 2 1/2" spacing seems tight, but the stability is probably needed for some projects. (I spaced my stitches 3 of Shrek's fingers apart.) She doesn't explain why you shouldn't quilt over the stitches. It seems so much easier to remove it at the end, rather than de-stabilize an area you're going to quilt. Do you know why?

I looked up DMC tatting thread and it comes in several weights. Do you know which weight would be good for this purpose?

Last edited by tessagin; 09-01-2015 at 08:06 AM.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:57 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tessagin View Post
Sharon states what she uses in weight.
I listened twice but didn't catch it, but someone here said 80 weight. I hope that's right because I have a nice fresh spool of DMC Cordonnet Special, Ecru No. 80 (20 g.) sitting right in front of me, rarin' to go. Can't decide if I want to use this for my Double Irish Chain or go the water-soluble (I bought some of that too)route, which really intrigues me. I had better be careful not to spill my martini on it while I'm basting.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:24 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by loisf View Post
I pin basted several quilts and will never, never, never do that again. I hate hand stitching, so that's out. I glue baste with Elmer's School Glue. It's fast, easy, cheap and I've never had a quilt "slip," nor have I ever had a pucker. I tape my backing to the floor, pulling it smooth and tight. I lay out the batting on the backing, cut it to size and fold back half at a time. Drizzle more glue, smooth out the batting, and then do the other half. Same process with the quilt top. Let dry over night, and you're ready to quilt. The glue never releases no matter how much the quilt is handled. Then I wash the quilt with plenty of water and it's perfect. My sewing machine never notices the glue and it never gums up because it's dry. I can't imagine why I'd ever do it any other way. For wallhangings that won't get washed, I use fusible batting.
I tried pin basting and HATED it. Not a fan of hand-basting either, but for my hand-quilting I guess that's the way to go. I just completed my first machine-quilted quilt and glue basted it (not Elmer's, that's not available here. I just bought some cheap white glue. As it didn't say "washable" I did a trial with some old fabric. It washed out perfectly!). I did it exactly as loisf above describes. It was such a breeze compared with hand-basting! It stuck together perfectly, didn't gum up or pucker anywhere. I think this idea is just ingenious! I will definitely use it again!
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:25 AM
  #39  
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I am so [unprintable] that I first pin baste, using small curved safety pins with the snap-on plastic backs and a grapefruit spoon to lift the pin point, and then I baste with thread.

Someone once wrote that you need to be careful about using colored thread to baste a pale fabric, and I was able to prove them correct by having thread dye left when I pulled the basting stitches out. So much for using up my nearly-gone spools.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:37 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Lee in Richmond View Post
I am so [unprintable] that I first pin baste...
Lee, I believe that word is "thorough" - or perhaps "diligent."

I'll bet your quilts are pucker free!

(PS - I lived in Richmond and worked at Lewis Ginter Botanical Garden.)

I find it hard to believe that thread will bleed even if it doesn't get wet, but I shall err on the side of caution, especially since I have an abundance of ancient cheapo thread, a fringe benefit from all the machines I've accumulated. I guess I dodged a bullet when I used screaming orange (so I could easily spot it) on that mostly pale-blue quilt and didn't have a problem.
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