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Well, I'm in love. I'm hard to impress when it comes to machinery. Most of it works. OK that's fine and dandy but nothing out of the ordinary.
Last Monday we found two Singer machines in cabinets. The first; a Singer 338K in a two folding lid cabinet. Very nice machine. It needed a bit of work, cleaning and oiling, and one top tension part replaced. But it is a very good machine. I've spent the last three days working on it and fine tuning the tensions. Today I tried over 30 different cams we have accumulated, and ad the machine loosened up made some really nice decorative stitches. The more I used it, the quieter it got. My wife thinks we should keep it. I'm not sure really since we've got a number of other machines capable of decorative stitches, zig-zag and other things, but I don't argue with her too much. That machine done I brought in the one I was slobbering over when we found the 338. The second; a Centennial Singer 201-2 in a cabinet that is a cross between a treadle cabinet and a wooden legged one. I brought the head in the house, the cabinet is still in my Pathfinder, there is no place for it in the house, and started to work with it. Some oil, some minor cleaning, some thread and a bobbin, and OH MY G....., I've NEVER had a machine run like this thing. It's like a fine tuned race car. Quiet, smooth, sure, and did I say smooth? Even the oscillating parts of the needle take-up lever didn't vibrate. I AM IMPRESSED! Like I said above, that doesn't happen often. I need to bring the cabinet in and work on it. It's worn, chipped here and there, and is missing the spring that lifts the metal part at the right end of the machine up. The springs not broke, it's gone. Anybody know where I can find one? Well, I don't have any photos of these two yet. I'll get some soon. One thing is for sure, something(s) has to go to make room for the 201. Joe |
miriam,
On automotive distributors I normally use a center punch or a scribe to put a dot or a scratch in the parts. I haven't had to do this yet with sewing machines, although I tried with my rusted 99K. I found those parts VERY hard and even the center punch didn't scratch them. So, at this point I'd be tempted to get a carbide tipped tool of some kind that would make a mark. Joe |
Hi,
Does anyone know the best way to adjust the tension on a Norwood Machine. I took it apart and cleaned it today and now I can't get the tension adjusted. I don't know if I have it threaded correctly either. Can anyone help me? I also don't know how to get on this blog either :=) |
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Nancy, yes the needle should be as close to the hook as possible without hitting. Some people use tin foil to make sure it's not rubbing. I just eyeball it. I took some photos and due to the rain they are terrible. However, here's a photo that maybe will help you. The tip of the hook should be in the center of the needle(eye) just as the needle bar is raised using the handwheel. I can take a better photo if need be. As you can see the needle is very close to the needle without rubbing.
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Have a 15-91 question. I have a friend with one in a cabinet but she wants the cabinet and not the machine. Will one of these work well outside of a cabinet? I kniow that a 66 or 210 needs a cabinet so am curious. She's actually willing to give me both if I give her some time to find another table. Just curious if the 15 will be okay to work with minus a cabinet?
Chris |
Originally Posted by J Miller
(Post 5063690)
miriam,
On automotive distributors I normally use a center punch or a scribe to put a dot or a scratch in the parts. I haven't had to do this yet with sewing machines, although I tried with my rusted 99K. I found those parts VERY hard and even the center punch didn't scratch them. So, at this point I'd be tempted to get a carbide tipped tool of some kind that would make a mark. Joe I have a couple Elna's that are going to need that kind of work at Ray's class. |
Originally Posted by Pattigail
(Post 5063693)
Hi,
Does anyone know the best way to adjust the tension on a Norwood Machine. I took it apart and cleaned it today and now I can't get the tension adjusted. I don't know if I have it threaded correctly either. Can anyone help me? I also don't know how to get on this blog either :=) quite a few links and info and this is a repair manual - if you can follow directions I think you should be able to figure this out from the info on here: http://www.tfsr.org/ look for the repair manual then look for tensions - really a good one. |
Originally Posted by J Miller
(Post 5063652)
Nancy,
I'm sorry to hear about your 319W. I kinda understand about timing sewing machines. It's too late now, but here is something I learned from working on cars and trucks. When you have to take something apart that has critical timing, put witness marks on everything. A small mark on opposing pieces will help you get it back together the same way it came apart. Works on distributors, should work on bobbin hooks. One more thing; when I was first married my wife had her two boys from the first marriage. To prevent unwanted trouble I put a lock on our bedroom door. Kept them out of trouble more times than not. When grand son comes to visit, lock the sewing room door. Joe Thank you Candace for the photo - it helped! Thank you Miriam, I printed out some how to's on timing! Well I did it! I can now join the "Timing Club." I have my 319w working great! She is doing decorative and straight stitch like nothing ever happened and I learned a ton! It took me awhile as I had to figure out that the eye of the needle had to be right at the point of the hook just as the needle was on the way up - not down! Yippppppeeeeee! My 319 is back in her treadle and I can sew! Joe, Marcus will be banned from the sewing room from now on! Nancy |
Princess, Francesca is beautiful!! I hope you enjoy her.
BTW, I am going to start watching your blog to learn more about gluten-free diets. |
Nancy, Glad you were able to do "it".
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