WHAT!? OMG! I never meant the post to refer to a "contest to see who is "better"" when I wrote that yesterday. I was just stating that my only contribution to your thread would be my photos of my repaint once I get that project done. This was just my response to the conversation I had read on wanting to see other folks' work on that thread you had started. I think it is wonderful that you have started a thread on refurbishing sad looking machine. I too would love to see other folks work.

When one shares, others learn. From sharing, all learn too, teacher as well as student.

Now back to my quilting, the quilting project must get finished first before I can work on painting a machine.

I have one, no two 15 clones that came with a manual. Even though the manuals came with the machines they are generic at best.
One of the manuals is for the treadle version of the clone, no mention of electrical motors in the manual.

Getting the 15 clone manual of the net is just as good if not better than some of the originals.

Joe

[QUOTE=SteveH;5972910]SLOWLY... I have surrendered on the top wood and am hunting for an appropriate veneer to replace it. (HOW do you remove the old layer, Heat? I am progressing slowly but steadily on the rest of the cabinet. I am arranging with Michael at Wolfgangs for a Howe Coffin top to go with it!![/QUOT

The veneer the was glued down originally with hyde glue( Hot Pot) so heat will soften the glue enough to get a putty knife under the veneer to help lift it off. Work fast if the glue cools it will stick hard again. Denatured alcohol will help also. The original glue was mixrd with water during the melting process so it will also help in the release of the glue. It is chore but worth it. Get all the loose veneer off before you start to make it easier.

Maria, can you post a picture of your machine? It sounds like it might be a clone. There is another thread here for just them. http://www.quiltingboard.com/picture...p-t164361.html
~G~

Got it!. It just occurred to me that I will get a MUCH better idea of the original nature of the veneer top by looking at the underside. Less likely to have been stained. cool. Then I can find the veneer. I think i will have to go online to get the veneer. The local Orchard Supply, Home depot, and Lowes had no idea what I was asking for. (Lowes was even though I showed them the online ad with it showing local inventory of 5)

Strange my Lowes usually has in stock. There are lots of woodworkers cat and on line sites that sell the veneer.

You are so right - there was so much I learned when I taught my children in home school. I have learned a lot on the board some times by my own trial and error, some times when I've helped people figure their machine out, and some times by watching what everyone else is learning. I love it! Thank you everyone!!! But this sure ain't no contest of any sort...

I have only seen one original manual. It was a pamphlet - one page folded in thirds. That manual you can down load has s whole lot more information.

thanks everyone, re: feedback on clone manuals, I will go ahead and download the one from ISMACs

Sew Classic is a great site, I've been through it many times. and ordered stuff for my treadle of course :)

Another Singer question, are the post holes in their cabinets/desks consistent? My 15-90 pins are 10" outside to outside. Since i can't lift the 15-90 it better go into a sewing machine table methinks, or I'll never get to use it..

The Singer machines and cabinets seem to be consistent for the post holes at least the vintage machines. Antique, I don't know. The machine length can vary there are about 3 sizes of the vintage machines. 3/4 size for the 99s and Spartans, etc, regular like for a Singer 15 or 66 and then the 401 & others are sized longer.. and that is VERY simplistic.