Sewing Machine Work Stand
06-21-2016, 05:12 PM
#151
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
A new workstand needs baseboards, so I'm going to make new ones. I have several to make and I want to use better wood this time. But before I do, I need to rework my routing process. When I made the first boards, I didn't really have the process thought out very well.
My first idea was to clamp the template to the baseboard material. This poses some challenges. The router has a bottom plate that it rides on, extending three to four inches in each direction, outward from the router bit. The router needs this clearance to operate. Clamps need to be out of the way. So, making room for the clamps, one can quickly have a template and baseboard that are very large by comparison to the desired size. The first template and board were both large and I cut the baseboard down to the final size later. This worked, but is very wasteful of wood.
The next time I made a baseboard, I decided to physically screw the template to the baseboard material, using flathead screws recessed below the surface. The router plate passed right over them with no problem. All boards since the first have been done this way. It works, but has a drawback. It leaves screw holes in the baseboard, which need to be filled afterward and sanded smooth. It's time consuming and on some of the boards you can still see slightly where the holes were.
Of the several baseboards I made for the first workstand, I don't believe that any two templates are the same size. I would just grab a piece of plywood that was available and make the template. Consequently, all of the templates are a different size.
Lastly, holding down the work securely is a bit challenging. This can require additional clamps, which also need to be out of the way of the router.
So I need an easy to use system which can be used with all of the previous templates.
A Routing Jig
I made a jig which will accept any of the previous baseboard templates and will securely hold the blank baseboard material to be routed. Made mostly from old wood, it's not fancy, but it will work. As can be seen, it has a hole in it large enough to accommodate any cutout. The hole is for router bit clearance and is just larger than the largest sized baseboard cutout I will need to make.
(Routing Jig)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552620[/ATTACH]
When a baseboard is done, the template may be easily lifted, using the hinged template arms. A little like a silk screening setup. The hinged arms are cut to fit around the baseboard material. A given template to be used is mounted with screws to the two arms, which are hinged, and close over the blank baseboard to be routed. The board to be routed is held securely by the jig, without any need for screw holes that would spoil the surface of it.
Two templates are needed for each baseboard, one for the outer edge and step cut, the other for the inner cut that removes the center of the baseboard entirely. The jig will allow for easy alignment of the two templates, which have been made with identical mounting holes.
A strip of wood along the top edge of the baseboard serves to hold one edge securely as a back stop. It has two wood screws, the tips of which sink slightly into the edge of the board, preventing it from moving back and forth side to side. If a baseboard needs to be reinstalled in the jig, these tiny holes can be used to register it exactly as it was.
(Back Stop With Screws)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552621[/ATTACH]
The baseboard is secured using two machine screws. I used T-nuts in little blocks of wood. Janey got some metal punch-outs from where she works. I inset them into the wooden strip and they work great to provide a surface for the metal screws to tighten against.
(Wooden Strip With Metal Inserts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552622[/ATTACH]
When the arms with the template are closed over the baseboard to be routed, pegs assure that the positioning of the template is correct. Pictures of the routing jig, fitted with a template and a baseboard blank are shown, both open and closed. The template seen is for the outer cut of a Singer universal baseboard.
(Routing Jig Open)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552623[/ATTACH]
(Routing Jig Closed)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552624[/ATTACH]
The jig has been made to fit over two saw horses, when in use.
(Routing Jig On Saw Horses)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552625[/ATTACH]
Not only will this jig make routing baseboards easier and more precise, I can easily put a baseboard back into it if something isn't perfect from a first pass with the router. I can do a second pass if necessary, with essentially perfect alignment of the template and baseboard..
And no wood is wasted. A baseboard blank cut to finished size may be securely held by the jig.
Next, I'm intending to post the making of a Kenmore baseboard using the new jig.
More soon,
John
My first idea was to clamp the template to the baseboard material. This poses some challenges. The router has a bottom plate that it rides on, extending three to four inches in each direction, outward from the router bit. The router needs this clearance to operate. Clamps need to be out of the way. So, making room for the clamps, one can quickly have a template and baseboard that are very large by comparison to the desired size. The first template and board were both large and I cut the baseboard down to the final size later. This worked, but is very wasteful of wood.
The next time I made a baseboard, I decided to physically screw the template to the baseboard material, using flathead screws recessed below the surface. The router plate passed right over them with no problem. All boards since the first have been done this way. It works, but has a drawback. It leaves screw holes in the baseboard, which need to be filled afterward and sanded smooth. It's time consuming and on some of the boards you can still see slightly where the holes were.
Of the several baseboards I made for the first workstand, I don't believe that any two templates are the same size. I would just grab a piece of plywood that was available and make the template. Consequently, all of the templates are a different size.
Lastly, holding down the work securely is a bit challenging. This can require additional clamps, which also need to be out of the way of the router.
So I need an easy to use system which can be used with all of the previous templates.
A Routing Jig
I made a jig which will accept any of the previous baseboard templates and will securely hold the blank baseboard material to be routed. Made mostly from old wood, it's not fancy, but it will work. As can be seen, it has a hole in it large enough to accommodate any cutout. The hole is for router bit clearance and is just larger than the largest sized baseboard cutout I will need to make.
(Routing Jig)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552620[/ATTACH]
When a baseboard is done, the template may be easily lifted, using the hinged template arms. A little like a silk screening setup. The hinged arms are cut to fit around the baseboard material. A given template to be used is mounted with screws to the two arms, which are hinged, and close over the blank baseboard to be routed. The board to be routed is held securely by the jig, without any need for screw holes that would spoil the surface of it.
Two templates are needed for each baseboard, one for the outer edge and step cut, the other for the inner cut that removes the center of the baseboard entirely. The jig will allow for easy alignment of the two templates, which have been made with identical mounting holes.
A strip of wood along the top edge of the baseboard serves to hold one edge securely as a back stop. It has two wood screws, the tips of which sink slightly into the edge of the board, preventing it from moving back and forth side to side. If a baseboard needs to be reinstalled in the jig, these tiny holes can be used to register it exactly as it was.
(Back Stop With Screws)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552621[/ATTACH]
The baseboard is secured using two machine screws. I used T-nuts in little blocks of wood. Janey got some metal punch-outs from where she works. I inset them into the wooden strip and they work great to provide a surface for the metal screws to tighten against.
(Wooden Strip With Metal Inserts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552622[/ATTACH]
When the arms with the template are closed over the baseboard to be routed, pegs assure that the positioning of the template is correct. Pictures of the routing jig, fitted with a template and a baseboard blank are shown, both open and closed. The template seen is for the outer cut of a Singer universal baseboard.
(Routing Jig Open)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552623[/ATTACH]
(Routing Jig Closed)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552624[/ATTACH]
The jig has been made to fit over two saw horses, when in use.
(Routing Jig On Saw Horses)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552625[/ATTACH]
Not only will this jig make routing baseboards easier and more precise, I can easily put a baseboard back into it if something isn't perfect from a first pass with the router. I can do a second pass if necessary, with essentially perfect alignment of the template and baseboard..
And no wood is wasted. A baseboard blank cut to finished size may be securely held by the jig.
Next, I'm intending to post the making of a Kenmore baseboard using the new jig.
More soon,
John
06-27-2016, 04:34 AM
#154
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
CRAFTING A KENMORE BASEBOARD
I think I'll have to make two posts out of this. Lots of pictures.
The Kenmore baseboard has so far been missing from our set for the workstand. I'm making one here and using the routing jig that I made recently, perhaps showing its usefulness and operation more clearly.
A template for the router to follow had to be made. Like templates I've previously made for other manufacturers, it defines the outer edge of the Kenmore mounting cutout. I'll show the use of the template, which is already made. The new routing jig will work for any template.
(Empty Routing Jig)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552951[/ATTACH]
The jig has two hinged arms for mounting the template. The jig is shown with one of its two arms swung back and the other arm shown down on the deck of the jig. I did this to show the difference in one picture. The arms are independent of one another. A template, however, will join them together.
The Kenmore template is seen, about to be screwed down to the arms of the jig.
(Attach Template With Screws)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552952[/ATTACH]
The template is attached, using four recessed screws, which will allow the router plate to slide smoothly over them.
(Template Attached)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552953[/ATTACH]
Once the template is installed, the template and arms become one piece. The template may be raised and swung open a little, as shown here, or all the way back, shown later.
(Template Raised)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552954[/ATTACH]
With the template up and out of the way, a baseboard blank may be inserted. The blank has been pre-cut to exact measurements. It can be held securely by the jig as it is being cut by the router.
(Blank Baseboard Inserted)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552955[/ATTACH]
The template is lowered into place for routing. Two pegs may be seen in the picture above, which exactly registers or positions the template when the arms are down and closed.
(Routing Jig Closed)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552956[/ATTACH]
- (Continued In Following Post) -
I think I'll have to make two posts out of this. Lots of pictures.
The Kenmore baseboard has so far been missing from our set for the workstand. I'm making one here and using the routing jig that I made recently, perhaps showing its usefulness and operation more clearly.
A template for the router to follow had to be made. Like templates I've previously made for other manufacturers, it defines the outer edge of the Kenmore mounting cutout. I'll show the use of the template, which is already made. The new routing jig will work for any template.
(Empty Routing Jig)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552951[/ATTACH]
The jig has two hinged arms for mounting the template. The jig is shown with one of its two arms swung back and the other arm shown down on the deck of the jig. I did this to show the difference in one picture. The arms are independent of one another. A template, however, will join them together.
The Kenmore template is seen, about to be screwed down to the arms of the jig.
(Attach Template With Screws)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552952[/ATTACH]
The template is attached, using four recessed screws, which will allow the router plate to slide smoothly over them.
(Template Attached)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552953[/ATTACH]
Once the template is installed, the template and arms become one piece. The template may be raised and swung open a little, as shown here, or all the way back, shown later.
(Template Raised)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552954[/ATTACH]
With the template up and out of the way, a baseboard blank may be inserted. The blank has been pre-cut to exact measurements. It can be held securely by the jig as it is being cut by the router.
(Blank Baseboard Inserted)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552955[/ATTACH]
The template is lowered into place for routing. Two pegs may be seen in the picture above, which exactly registers or positions the template when the arms are down and closed.
(Routing Jig Closed)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552956[/ATTACH]
- (Continued In Following Post) -
06-27-2016, 05:03 AM
#155
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
CRAFTING A KENMORE BASEBOARD (continued)
Using exact size baseboard blanks eliminates wasted wood, a great improvement over my original method. If you're a newcomer to the thread, there is a previous post about how I made the original baseboards at:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7223881
The router (shown to the left) has been set to the correct cutting depth. Three passes of the router are necessary. The first two form the stepped edge. The third pass cuts the inner edge of the cutout, all the way through the baseboard material. A starter hole makes beginning the routing process a little easier.
The oval seen in the center of the template serves to support the back of the router plate as it follows the inside edge of the template. Being oval in shape, it slides around easily, pushed by the router, pretty much all by itself.
(Ready To Begin)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552957[/ATTACH]
I stopped after the first router pass to take this picture. Sawdust all around the area!
(Routing Mid Process)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552958[/ATTACH]
The finished baseboard is shown below, ready for filing and sanding of the new stepped edge. I cut the inside with a jigsaw for this first Kenmore baseboard. I may have to make adjustments to the inner edge. When I've tested it with a variety of machines, I'll make a template for the router to cut the inner edge. This second template will have exactly the same screw holes as the template shown here, so it will also be positioned correctly.
The jig lastly holds the baseboard and allows easy filing and sanding of the inner edge. Here it is shown with the template swung completely back and out of the way.
(A Holder While Finishing)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552959[/ATTACH]
The radius of my router bit is still not sharp enough for the Kenmore corners. The small radius that my router bit produced is shown.
(Round Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552960[/ATTACH]
Easy fix. I squared up the corners with a chisel.
(Square Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552961[/ATTACH]
The baseboard in a rough and unpainted condition is shown here, ready for testing.
(Kenmore Baseboard)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552962[/ATTACH]
The first machine I chose to test is a Kenmore 158.1652. Being a very heavy machine, the workstand really shows its benefits.
(Kenmore Upright)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552963[/ATTACH]
And of course, I just had to turn it on its head.
(Kenmore Upside Down)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552964[/ATTACH]
I still have to test the baseboard with two or three other Kenmores that we have.
In closing, this might be a good time to reiterate the question I had a page or two back, about bed size conventions. This is a good example. This baseboard accommodates a 16-5/8 inch long machine that is 7-1/4 inches in width.
Does anyone know if there are models that are about two inches shorter, having clearance under the handwheel for a treadle belt? This would follow the Singer convention of long and short beds.
More soon,
John
Using exact size baseboard blanks eliminates wasted wood, a great improvement over my original method. If you're a newcomer to the thread, there is a previous post about how I made the original baseboards at:
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7223881
The router (shown to the left) has been set to the correct cutting depth. Three passes of the router are necessary. The first two form the stepped edge. The third pass cuts the inner edge of the cutout, all the way through the baseboard material. A starter hole makes beginning the routing process a little easier.
The oval seen in the center of the template serves to support the back of the router plate as it follows the inside edge of the template. Being oval in shape, it slides around easily, pushed by the router, pretty much all by itself.
(Ready To Begin)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552957[/ATTACH]
I stopped after the first router pass to take this picture. Sawdust all around the area!
(Routing Mid Process)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552958[/ATTACH]
The finished baseboard is shown below, ready for filing and sanding of the new stepped edge. I cut the inside with a jigsaw for this first Kenmore baseboard. I may have to make adjustments to the inner edge. When I've tested it with a variety of machines, I'll make a template for the router to cut the inner edge. This second template will have exactly the same screw holes as the template shown here, so it will also be positioned correctly.
The jig lastly holds the baseboard and allows easy filing and sanding of the inner edge. Here it is shown with the template swung completely back and out of the way.
(A Holder While Finishing)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552959[/ATTACH]
The radius of my router bit is still not sharp enough for the Kenmore corners. The small radius that my router bit produced is shown.
(Round Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552960[/ATTACH]
Easy fix. I squared up the corners with a chisel.
(Square Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552961[/ATTACH]
The baseboard in a rough and unpainted condition is shown here, ready for testing.
(Kenmore Baseboard)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552962[/ATTACH]
The first machine I chose to test is a Kenmore 158.1652. Being a very heavy machine, the workstand really shows its benefits.
(Kenmore Upright)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552963[/ATTACH]
And of course, I just had to turn it on its head.
(Kenmore Upside Down)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]552964[/ATTACH]
I still have to test the baseboard with two or three other Kenmores that we have.
In closing, this might be a good time to reiterate the question I had a page or two back, about bed size conventions. This is a good example. This baseboard accommodates a 16-5/8 inch long machine that is 7-1/4 inches in width.
Does anyone know if there are models that are about two inches shorter, having clearance under the handwheel for a treadle belt? This would follow the Singer convention of long and short beds.
More soon,
John
07-05-2016, 05:21 PM
#157
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
Finished Kenmore Board
I finished the Kenmore board with an olive drab color. Twice. You'd think I'd know to check all the machines before painting! I had to make a couple of adjustments that required a touch up coat.
The machines I tested were Kenmore 158.1652, 158.13570, 158.16012 and 148.231. It fits machines that are 7-1/4 inches in bed depth and that have square corners.
(Finished Kenmore Baseboard)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553451[/ATTACH]
With the other baseboards shown earlier in this thread on page 10, our collection of baseboards for ordinary use is pretty much complete.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7374224
With this complement of baseboards, the workstand can accommodate a very wide range of machines built between around 1890 and well into the 20th century, when machines began to be made without standard mounting provisions, their bases being an integral part of the machine body.
Swing Frame Balance Test
This is a picture that I took a while back, but forgot to post. I wanted to test the exact balance of the new swing frame I had made recently. I wanted to see how well balanced it would be all by itself. But an empty swing frame is far from balanced.
Irregularity in the movement or balance of something that is turning is easier to see or feel when it is turning faster than the workstand typically is rotated. I've turned a machine more than once a second but it feels like I'm pushing some limit of safety or good sense.
To spin the new frame faster, as well as eliminate the normal slight imbalance of the machine itself, I built a dummy load for the stand. A weight on the end of a vertically oriented arm serves to balance the frame. It is the minimum weight that the frame can be balanced with. It serves to make a perfectly spinning swing frame.
(Spin Test Setup)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553455[/ATTACH]
I can spin the swing frame at three or four times per second, fast enough to see that it is well balanced. No problems. And no sewing machines were harmed doing this experiment.
More soon,
John
I finished the Kenmore board with an olive drab color. Twice. You'd think I'd know to check all the machines before painting! I had to make a couple of adjustments that required a touch up coat.
The machines I tested were Kenmore 158.1652, 158.13570, 158.16012 and 148.231. It fits machines that are 7-1/4 inches in bed depth and that have square corners.
(Finished Kenmore Baseboard)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553451[/ATTACH]
With the other baseboards shown earlier in this thread on page 10, our collection of baseboards for ordinary use is pretty much complete.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7374224
With this complement of baseboards, the workstand can accommodate a very wide range of machines built between around 1890 and well into the 20th century, when machines began to be made without standard mounting provisions, their bases being an integral part of the machine body.
Swing Frame Balance Test
This is a picture that I took a while back, but forgot to post. I wanted to test the exact balance of the new swing frame I had made recently. I wanted to see how well balanced it would be all by itself. But an empty swing frame is far from balanced.
Irregularity in the movement or balance of something that is turning is easier to see or feel when it is turning faster than the workstand typically is rotated. I've turned a machine more than once a second but it feels like I'm pushing some limit of safety or good sense.
To spin the new frame faster, as well as eliminate the normal slight imbalance of the machine itself, I built a dummy load for the stand. A weight on the end of a vertically oriented arm serves to balance the frame. It is the minimum weight that the frame can be balanced with. It serves to make a perfectly spinning swing frame.
(Spin Test Setup)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]553455[/ATTACH]
I can spin the swing frame at three or four times per second, fast enough to see that it is well balanced. No problems. And no sewing machines were harmed doing this experiment.
More soon,
John
07-06-2016, 06:46 PM
#159
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Washington
Posts: 4,001
[QUOTE=Cari-in-Oly;7594992]Wow. The amount of thought you've put into this, along with all of the building this n that, is way more than I think we expected. Superb.
Cari[/QUOT
Me too, I just find this so interesting and in of of the work you are doing. I have been off for a while, so am asking if these will be available, the diff. boards later on then, I thought I may only need the one, but may need more. Thanks for the great updates. Lynn
Cari[/QUOT
Me too, I just find this so interesting and in of of the work you are doing. I have been off for a while, so am asking if these will be available, the diff. boards later on then, I thought I may only need the one, but may need more. Thanks for the great updates. Lynn
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