Sewing Machine Work Stand
06-04-2015, 01:34 PM
#51
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
ATTACHING A MACHINE TO THE SWING FRAME
There's a story to the machine we are using to demonstrate in this post. So, please just skip ahead if you don't like stories.
We were at a yard sale. I was looking through the usual ordinary stuff, vinyl records, pictures that did not particularly inspire me, lots of glassware that we didn't need and several pairs of pants that would never fit. As I was looking, I heard someone clear their throat a little louder than normal. It was Janey.
Nobody else noticed. But I know that sound. Roughly translated, it means something like, "Honey, I've found something having to do with sewing, a sewing machine and/or something related, that you might be interested in seeing." Casually, so as to not attract undue attention, I made my way over to where she was.
What she had found was yet another White Rotary, this one a model 43. Coincidentally, this was the third White Rotary we have come across in a short time. The machine with brown wrinkle finish came in a decent wooden cabinet. The cabinet did have several drawers. In one of those drawers was a little box. And in that little box were some attachments. "Attachments!", she said.
Janey began going through the box of items, sorting out which of them went with the White, which belonged with other machines and which had nothing at all to do with sewing. After 15 minutes or so, a nice woman selling the machine came over and Janey explained that many of the attachments were for other machines. She had them all sorted out. The woman listened as Janey explained what some of the attachments were and what they did. I looked over the machine as the two of them talked for a while.
Since we have two Whites already, we thanked her and continued looking around. Later, as we were leaving, Janey stopped and talked with her a bit more. The woman said we were the only people that had shown interest in the machine. She apparently took a liking to Janey, because she offered the machine for a very, very low price. I don't want to be too specific, but let's just say you could count it on one hand.
Janey looked at me and I looked at her. We were trying to think of a reason to say no. We were both drawing blanks. How could we refuse such an offer? Before long the machine head was out and placed safely in the car, with the cabinet and drawers loaded into the back (and all the attachments). We drove the short distance home slowly with the back hatch open.
The machine is so much like the White Rotary 41 that it's difficult to pinpoint differences. It's brown. Janey thinks there might be something different about the bobbin mechanism. But because this machine just happens to be our latest acquisition, and on the work bench so to speak, we'll use it later to demonstrate a second way to fasten a machine to a swing frame.
Original Clip Fastener Method
The design of the original work stand includes four(4) small and unobtrusive clips to secure the machine to the frame. Their small size make them easy to work around and make it easy to install a machine. They are made from 1/2 inch steel bar material, 1/8 inch thick. Each clip is drilled to accommodate a high strength bolt. Corresponding holes go through the baseboard and the swing frame. This involves a little metal work, cutting and drilling.
(Picture of Clips)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521538[/ATTACH]
These clips, which are specific to each baseboard, contact only the curved edge of the sewing machine bed, as illustrated. Each unique baseboard requires clips just the right length to reach the curved edge of the machine. Clips are color coded to the baseboard they are associated with. An allen head high strength bolt secures each clip, with a washer and wing nut on the underside of the swing frame.
(Clip Illustration)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521539[/ATTACH]
Since I'm able and have the tools to make these compact fasteners, this would always be my preference. But there is at least one other possibility, presented below.
Alternate Wood Strip and C-clamp Method
One night recently Janey said, "You know, you could use wood strips and C-clamps to hold a machine in the frame." She was so right. I decided to build two such strips to prove her point. I painted them and added felt as a cushion. A trip to Harbor Freight yielded four C-clamps just the right size.
(Wood Strips and Clamps)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521540[/ATTACH]
I want to demonstrate that the swing frame can be used with a baseboard and very little else. No base. No clips. These can be added later, if desired.
Janey is helping to demonstrate. My arms aren't long enough to hold the frame and the camera. She is holding the frame while I take the picture. As shown, this is a very simple use of a swing frame, using only a baseboard, two wood strips, four C-clamps and two saw horses While not quite as neat and compact as the clips, the wooden strip approach is much easier, involving no metal work. And while we fancied things up with red felt, you wouldn't have to. The saw horses can be used temporarily until something better is devised.
(Swing Frame On Saw Horses)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521541[/ATTACH]
This may seem an odd setup, but someone cleaning or oiling a machine for example, could use it quite effectively. One or two bungee cords could easily hold it in the position desired. A clamp on each saw horse prevents the pivot shafts from moving around. We only needed one each side in the picture, since its downhill. Two might be needed if the saw horses are more level.
If someone can manage to obtain a swing frame and a baseboard, everything else can be added later as time and resources permit.
More on making baseboards soon...
John
There's a story to the machine we are using to demonstrate in this post. So, please just skip ahead if you don't like stories.
We were at a yard sale. I was looking through the usual ordinary stuff, vinyl records, pictures that did not particularly inspire me, lots of glassware that we didn't need and several pairs of pants that would never fit. As I was looking, I heard someone clear their throat a little louder than normal. It was Janey.
Nobody else noticed. But I know that sound. Roughly translated, it means something like, "Honey, I've found something having to do with sewing, a sewing machine and/or something related, that you might be interested in seeing." Casually, so as to not attract undue attention, I made my way over to where she was.
What she had found was yet another White Rotary, this one a model 43. Coincidentally, this was the third White Rotary we have come across in a short time. The machine with brown wrinkle finish came in a decent wooden cabinet. The cabinet did have several drawers. In one of those drawers was a little box. And in that little box were some attachments. "Attachments!", she said.
Janey began going through the box of items, sorting out which of them went with the White, which belonged with other machines and which had nothing at all to do with sewing. After 15 minutes or so, a nice woman selling the machine came over and Janey explained that many of the attachments were for other machines. She had them all sorted out. The woman listened as Janey explained what some of the attachments were and what they did. I looked over the machine as the two of them talked for a while.
Since we have two Whites already, we thanked her and continued looking around. Later, as we were leaving, Janey stopped and talked with her a bit more. The woman said we were the only people that had shown interest in the machine. She apparently took a liking to Janey, because she offered the machine for a very, very low price. I don't want to be too specific, but let's just say you could count it on one hand.
Janey looked at me and I looked at her. We were trying to think of a reason to say no. We were both drawing blanks. How could we refuse such an offer? Before long the machine head was out and placed safely in the car, with the cabinet and drawers loaded into the back (and all the attachments). We drove the short distance home slowly with the back hatch open.
The machine is so much like the White Rotary 41 that it's difficult to pinpoint differences. It's brown. Janey thinks there might be something different about the bobbin mechanism. But because this machine just happens to be our latest acquisition, and on the work bench so to speak, we'll use it later to demonstrate a second way to fasten a machine to a swing frame.
Original Clip Fastener Method
The design of the original work stand includes four(4) small and unobtrusive clips to secure the machine to the frame. Their small size make them easy to work around and make it easy to install a machine. They are made from 1/2 inch steel bar material, 1/8 inch thick. Each clip is drilled to accommodate a high strength bolt. Corresponding holes go through the baseboard and the swing frame. This involves a little metal work, cutting and drilling.
(Picture of Clips)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521538[/ATTACH]
These clips, which are specific to each baseboard, contact only the curved edge of the sewing machine bed, as illustrated. Each unique baseboard requires clips just the right length to reach the curved edge of the machine. Clips are color coded to the baseboard they are associated with. An allen head high strength bolt secures each clip, with a washer and wing nut on the underside of the swing frame.
(Clip Illustration)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521539[/ATTACH]
Since I'm able and have the tools to make these compact fasteners, this would always be my preference. But there is at least one other possibility, presented below.
Alternate Wood Strip and C-clamp Method
One night recently Janey said, "You know, you could use wood strips and C-clamps to hold a machine in the frame." She was so right. I decided to build two such strips to prove her point. I painted them and added felt as a cushion. A trip to Harbor Freight yielded four C-clamps just the right size.
(Wood Strips and Clamps)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521540[/ATTACH]
I want to demonstrate that the swing frame can be used with a baseboard and very little else. No base. No clips. These can be added later, if desired.
Janey is helping to demonstrate. My arms aren't long enough to hold the frame and the camera. She is holding the frame while I take the picture. As shown, this is a very simple use of a swing frame, using only a baseboard, two wood strips, four C-clamps and two saw horses While not quite as neat and compact as the clips, the wooden strip approach is much easier, involving no metal work. And while we fancied things up with red felt, you wouldn't have to. The saw horses can be used temporarily until something better is devised.
(Swing Frame On Saw Horses)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]521541[/ATTACH]
This may seem an odd setup, but someone cleaning or oiling a machine for example, could use it quite effectively. One or two bungee cords could easily hold it in the position desired. A clamp on each saw horse prevents the pivot shafts from moving around. We only needed one each side in the picture, since its downhill. Two might be needed if the saw horses are more level.
If someone can manage to obtain a swing frame and a baseboard, everything else can be added later as time and resources permit.
More on making baseboards soon...
John
06-11-2015, 04:42 PM
#53
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
MAKING BASEBOARDS FOR THE WORK STAND
I think I'll do this in three successive posts. First I'll show how I set up the router. Then I'll show the making of a template. Finally I'll show how to make a baseboard from the template.
Router
Here is a picture of the router I use. I got it several years ago from Harbor Freight. It bears the name Chicago, but it is actually made in China. I've had very good luck with this brand for several kinds of power tools that I've purchased.
Routers make much smoother cuts than a saw would, provided that they are guided precisely. There are a few of things that should be mentioned about routers in general. Always use protective eyewear when using a router. The blades are very sharp and frequently at every place you could touch. The blade I use here cuts sideways as well as downward. Routers turn at a very high speed. This one rotates at 20,000 RPM. And when you turn it on it will kick a little bit. But nothing that you can't control if you're expecting it and hold on to it securely.
(Router Front View)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522070[/ATTACH]
As shown, with the blade up, the router is pretty safe. This is called a plunge router, because it has springs, located inside the chrome tubes on either side. This allows one to plunge the blade straight down into the work, to start cutting. It takes constant effort to hold the router in this down position and I don't use it. A router is tough enough to control along a guide surface without the need to apply this downward force. I lock the blade to the position I want beforehand, then drill a starter hole, placing the blade down into it before even powering up the router. If you work with the blade down as I do, be very careful.
This router came with several different attachments which guide the way it cuts. There may be a dozen or more ways of cutting, using edges, patterns or templates. Some techniques use a roller guide on the tip of the blade itself. The collar attachment used here may be the simplest. It is a plate with a collar that is mounted over the base of the blade. It simply offsets the cutting location from the edge of the guide.
(Router Guide 1)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522071[/ATTACH]
I use the three washers under the plate. For whatever reason, the plate was designed to mount some distance above the router glide surface. It didn't ride an edge reliably. I shimmed the plate out, or downward, with three washers underneath the plate on each side, allowing more of the collar to ride the template edge. It works a lot better this way.
(Router Guide 2)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522072[/ATTACH]
Below is a picture of the router from underneath showing the guide collar position relative to the cutting blade. In the case of this router and blade, it is 5/32" from the collar to the blade. The template must be created this amount larger than the final edge that is cut. A picture of the blade and the collar shows the spacing.
(Router Blade)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522073[/ATTACH]
The blade as shown here is set low enough to cut all the way through the piece of wood being worked on. Making the template requires this. However, for the making of the baseboard the blade will be set to cut only a short distance into the surface of the wood. This is how the stepped edge is made.
Making A Template next.
John
I think I'll do this in three successive posts. First I'll show how I set up the router. Then I'll show the making of a template. Finally I'll show how to make a baseboard from the template.
Router
Here is a picture of the router I use. I got it several years ago from Harbor Freight. It bears the name Chicago, but it is actually made in China. I've had very good luck with this brand for several kinds of power tools that I've purchased.
Routers make much smoother cuts than a saw would, provided that they are guided precisely. There are a few of things that should be mentioned about routers in general. Always use protective eyewear when using a router. The blades are very sharp and frequently at every place you could touch. The blade I use here cuts sideways as well as downward. Routers turn at a very high speed. This one rotates at 20,000 RPM. And when you turn it on it will kick a little bit. But nothing that you can't control if you're expecting it and hold on to it securely.
(Router Front View)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522070[/ATTACH]
As shown, with the blade up, the router is pretty safe. This is called a plunge router, because it has springs, located inside the chrome tubes on either side. This allows one to plunge the blade straight down into the work, to start cutting. It takes constant effort to hold the router in this down position and I don't use it. A router is tough enough to control along a guide surface without the need to apply this downward force. I lock the blade to the position I want beforehand, then drill a starter hole, placing the blade down into it before even powering up the router. If you work with the blade down as I do, be very careful.
This router came with several different attachments which guide the way it cuts. There may be a dozen or more ways of cutting, using edges, patterns or templates. Some techniques use a roller guide on the tip of the blade itself. The collar attachment used here may be the simplest. It is a plate with a collar that is mounted over the base of the blade. It simply offsets the cutting location from the edge of the guide.
(Router Guide 1)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522071[/ATTACH]
I use the three washers under the plate. For whatever reason, the plate was designed to mount some distance above the router glide surface. It didn't ride an edge reliably. I shimmed the plate out, or downward, with three washers underneath the plate on each side, allowing more of the collar to ride the template edge. It works a lot better this way.
(Router Guide 2)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522072[/ATTACH]
Below is a picture of the router from underneath showing the guide collar position relative to the cutting blade. In the case of this router and blade, it is 5/32" from the collar to the blade. The template must be created this amount larger than the final edge that is cut. A picture of the blade and the collar shows the spacing.
(Router Blade)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522073[/ATTACH]
The blade as shown here is set low enough to cut all the way through the piece of wood being worked on. Making the template requires this. However, for the making of the baseboard the blade will be set to cut only a short distance into the surface of the wood. This is how the stepped edge is made.
Making A Template next.
John
06-13-2015, 03:02 PM
#54
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
MAKING A BASEBOARD FOR THE WORK STAND
The Template
The measurements made on your template, if you make one, will be highly specific to the router, the attachment and the cutting blade that you have. In devising a plan, use the principles more than the specific measurements you see here. The distance from my attachment collar to my cutting blade (5/32 inch), should be replaced by measurements specific to your router, attachment and blade.
Below is a picture of the template as initially laid out. I made the picture a bit larger to better show the lines which are a little difficult to see. It can be made from plywood with any thickness from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. I prefer 3/8 to 1/2 inch thickness for ease in working with it.
(Template Layout)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522229[/ATTACH]
A closeup of one corner shows the three lines that are drawn onto the template. The corners are all the same. The inner line represents the outer dimension of the sewing machine bed that will fit into the finished baseboard. A small allowance needs to be added to allow a machine to be inserted and removed smoothly, without getting caught or sticking. I allow 1/16 inch additional in each of the two directions. This is added to the inner of the three sets of lines on the template (A).
The dashed line (B) has the corner curve drawn, the only set of lines that does. It's the only curve that matters. This will be the actual edge of the template, 5/32 inch larger than the finished baseboard line inside it. If the router can follow this line, we will have a cutout that is just right for the sewing machine. The curve drawn will be the visual guide for later shaping of the template corner.
But in order to cut the template line, we need a guide (C) that is 5/32 inch larger still. Instead of using yet another template to make this template, we will find a straight edge and use it on each of the four sides, one by one. The corners will then be finished carefully by hand.
We then have three sets of lines, separated by 5/32 inch, the appropriate distance for my router setup.
(Template Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522231[/ATTACH]
Shown below, a straight edged piece of wood will serve as a guide for the first straight cut of the template. It is placed exactly on the outer of the three lines we have marked. Countersunk screws are used, which will allow the router's glide surface to run smoothly over them. Later the holes will be filled. Each corner has a starter hole cut, where the router blade is placed to start each of the four cuts. Stop points are marked at each end of the cut, just before the corner curves. A piece of scrap wood is placed under the back edge of the router to keep the router from tipping.
(Template Cut 1)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522233[/ATTACH]
The next picture shows the first cut complete, with the template set up for the second cut, made just like the first. It can be seen that the router was started by pulling it toward the edge guide. The router moves the short distance to one end, then is moved along the edge guide to the other end. The tendency of the router to "walk" may be seen in my effort to pull the router straight toward the edge. It didn't go straight toward the edge, it moved a little to one side. As the blade cuts, it tends to push the router in the opposite direction. This is a matter of simple action and reaction.
(Template Cut 2)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522234[/ATTACH]
All four straight edges of the template are cut this way, leaving the center of the board attached only at the corners. I missed taking a picture of the board at this stage. But below the board may be seen after cutting each corner with a jigsaw. Plenty of wood is left which will allow the final shaping of each corner by hand. The first work to shape the corners is done with a slightly rounded rasp.
(Template Rough Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522235[/ATTACH]
After the approximate curve is roughed out with the rasp, a finer job of sanding will produce the final shape. I found that a large wrench socket, used first with coarse sandpaper, then with finer sandpaper, works very well, giving a perfect looking corner. Holding the socket and sandpaper, though, takes a little practice. Any other cylindrical object of the right diameter could be used as a sanding form, as well.
(Template Corner Finish)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522236[/ATTACH]
The finished template is shown below, with straight edges and smooth corners. To summarize the somewhat confusing matter of the three lines, the edge you see corresponds to the dashed line shown earlier with the curve that was drawn. From it, the router will cut 5/32 inch smaller or inside the edge. This is the exact measurement we want for the baseboard cutout. And, to make this cut in the template, we needed to use a guide 5/32 inch larger or outside the desired template edge.
(Template Done)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522237[/ATTACH]
I realize as I'm posting this that I haven't gotten any pictures of the router actually working. There are probably a couple of reasons for this. First, I never thought of it because it would be difficult to see, since the router blade is hidden in the middle of the circular glide surface. The second reason is that it takes both hands to run the router. I'll try to get some pictures of the router in position for cutting.
With the template done, the upcoming step will be to cut the baseboard using the template as a guide. That will be the next post.
John
The Template
The measurements made on your template, if you make one, will be highly specific to the router, the attachment and the cutting blade that you have. In devising a plan, use the principles more than the specific measurements you see here. The distance from my attachment collar to my cutting blade (5/32 inch), should be replaced by measurements specific to your router, attachment and blade.
Below is a picture of the template as initially laid out. I made the picture a bit larger to better show the lines which are a little difficult to see. It can be made from plywood with any thickness from 1/4 inch to 3/4 inch. I prefer 3/8 to 1/2 inch thickness for ease in working with it.
(Template Layout)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522229[/ATTACH]
A closeup of one corner shows the three lines that are drawn onto the template. The corners are all the same. The inner line represents the outer dimension of the sewing machine bed that will fit into the finished baseboard. A small allowance needs to be added to allow a machine to be inserted and removed smoothly, without getting caught or sticking. I allow 1/16 inch additional in each of the two directions. This is added to the inner of the three sets of lines on the template (A).
The dashed line (B) has the corner curve drawn, the only set of lines that does. It's the only curve that matters. This will be the actual edge of the template, 5/32 inch larger than the finished baseboard line inside it. If the router can follow this line, we will have a cutout that is just right for the sewing machine. The curve drawn will be the visual guide for later shaping of the template corner.
But in order to cut the template line, we need a guide (C) that is 5/32 inch larger still. Instead of using yet another template to make this template, we will find a straight edge and use it on each of the four sides, one by one. The corners will then be finished carefully by hand.
We then have three sets of lines, separated by 5/32 inch, the appropriate distance for my router setup.
(Template Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522231[/ATTACH]
Shown below, a straight edged piece of wood will serve as a guide for the first straight cut of the template. It is placed exactly on the outer of the three lines we have marked. Countersunk screws are used, which will allow the router's glide surface to run smoothly over them. Later the holes will be filled. Each corner has a starter hole cut, where the router blade is placed to start each of the four cuts. Stop points are marked at each end of the cut, just before the corner curves. A piece of scrap wood is placed under the back edge of the router to keep the router from tipping.
(Template Cut 1)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522233[/ATTACH]
The next picture shows the first cut complete, with the template set up for the second cut, made just like the first. It can be seen that the router was started by pulling it toward the edge guide. The router moves the short distance to one end, then is moved along the edge guide to the other end. The tendency of the router to "walk" may be seen in my effort to pull the router straight toward the edge. It didn't go straight toward the edge, it moved a little to one side. As the blade cuts, it tends to push the router in the opposite direction. This is a matter of simple action and reaction.
(Template Cut 2)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522234[/ATTACH]
All four straight edges of the template are cut this way, leaving the center of the board attached only at the corners. I missed taking a picture of the board at this stage. But below the board may be seen after cutting each corner with a jigsaw. Plenty of wood is left which will allow the final shaping of each corner by hand. The first work to shape the corners is done with a slightly rounded rasp.
(Template Rough Corner)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522235[/ATTACH]
After the approximate curve is roughed out with the rasp, a finer job of sanding will produce the final shape. I found that a large wrench socket, used first with coarse sandpaper, then with finer sandpaper, works very well, giving a perfect looking corner. Holding the socket and sandpaper, though, takes a little practice. Any other cylindrical object of the right diameter could be used as a sanding form, as well.
(Template Corner Finish)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522236[/ATTACH]
The finished template is shown below, with straight edges and smooth corners. To summarize the somewhat confusing matter of the three lines, the edge you see corresponds to the dashed line shown earlier with the curve that was drawn. From it, the router will cut 5/32 inch smaller or inside the edge. This is the exact measurement we want for the baseboard cutout. And, to make this cut in the template, we needed to use a guide 5/32 inch larger or outside the desired template edge.
(Template Done)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522237[/ATTACH]
I realize as I'm posting this that I haven't gotten any pictures of the router actually working. There are probably a couple of reasons for this. First, I never thought of it because it would be difficult to see, since the router blade is hidden in the middle of the circular glide surface. The second reason is that it takes both hands to run the router. I'll try to get some pictures of the router in position for cutting.
With the template done, the upcoming step will be to cut the baseboard using the template as a guide. That will be the next post.
John
06-16-2015, 04:28 PM
#55
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
MAKING BASEBOARDS FOR THE WORK STAND
Routing The Baseboard
The principal reason for making this baseboard is to demonstrate how it's done. But as long as I'm doing it, I want to make a baseboard that is as universal as possible. This is intended to fit most long and short bed Singers, as well as many others with the same base size. It could work for many Brother, Necchi, Signature, Kenmore (only some), as well as many other brands. When completed, this will be the most commonly used and versatile baseboard in our set. If a person could have only one baseboard, this would be the one to have.
Since the last post, I worked a little more on one of the corners of the template to get a better shape. It just needed a little more sanding.
The template is seen below with the best piece of 3/4 inch plywood that I could find at Home Depot. It's reasonably dry and seems straight along all edges. We'll see what we can do with it. I have previously used and prefer a kind of wood called Russian plywood. It is very flat and stable, but is a special order item and I don't have any available right now.
(Baseboard Blank)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522561[/ATTACH]
I cut a piece from what appeared to be the best corner of the board and checked to be sure it fits into the swing frame. It does. I painted it to help contrast and show the cuts that will be made. I'm using a method that allows working with finished size baseboards. This would facilitate producing many of them with minimal waste.
(Baseboard Painted)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522562[/ATTACH]
Because the baseboard is smaller than the template, center lines were drawn in both directions. These are used, along with similar lines on the template, to correctly position the baseboard on the template without being able to see its hidden edges.
(Baseboard Centerlines)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522563[/ATTACH]
The baseboard is clamped to the template and then screwed together using four one inch drywall screws. The clamps may then be removed.
(Baseboard Screws)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522564[/ATTACH]
A rear view of the template shows the baseboard securely attached.
(Baseboard Rear View)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522565[/ATTACH]
The baseboard and template shown from the front ready for the routing process to begin.
(Baseboard & Template)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522566[/ATTACH]
(continued...)
Routing The Baseboard
The principal reason for making this baseboard is to demonstrate how it's done. But as long as I'm doing it, I want to make a baseboard that is as universal as possible. This is intended to fit most long and short bed Singers, as well as many others with the same base size. It could work for many Brother, Necchi, Signature, Kenmore (only some), as well as many other brands. When completed, this will be the most commonly used and versatile baseboard in our set. If a person could have only one baseboard, this would be the one to have.
Since the last post, I worked a little more on one of the corners of the template to get a better shape. It just needed a little more sanding.
The template is seen below with the best piece of 3/4 inch plywood that I could find at Home Depot. It's reasonably dry and seems straight along all edges. We'll see what we can do with it. I have previously used and prefer a kind of wood called Russian plywood. It is very flat and stable, but is a special order item and I don't have any available right now.
(Baseboard Blank)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522561[/ATTACH]
I cut a piece from what appeared to be the best corner of the board and checked to be sure it fits into the swing frame. It does. I painted it to help contrast and show the cuts that will be made. I'm using a method that allows working with finished size baseboards. This would facilitate producing many of them with minimal waste.
(Baseboard Painted)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522562[/ATTACH]
Because the baseboard is smaller than the template, center lines were drawn in both directions. These are used, along with similar lines on the template, to correctly position the baseboard on the template without being able to see its hidden edges.
(Baseboard Centerlines)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522563[/ATTACH]
The baseboard is clamped to the template and then screwed together using four one inch drywall screws. The clamps may then be removed.
(Baseboard Screws)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522564[/ATTACH]
A rear view of the template shows the baseboard securely attached.
(Baseboard Rear View)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522565[/ATTACH]
The baseboard and template shown from the front ready for the routing process to begin.
(Baseboard & Template)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522566[/ATTACH]
(continued...)
06-16-2015, 04:46 PM
#56
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
MAKING A BASEBOARD FOR THE WORK STAND
Making The Baseboard (...continued)
Below I've shown my setup for the template and the router. A loose board the same thickness as the template allows a gap, seen to the left of the template, that the router can sit safely on when not being used. It also provides a way to easily measure and adjust the depth of the cut and lock the blade into the desired depth position.
(Baseboard Router Setup)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522572[/ATTACH]
The depth of cut may be tested by carefully (very carefully) sliding a block of wood underneath the loose board to the side of the template and into the blade. Sliding the block along the underside of the loose board will put the test block in the same position as the baseboard, relative to the blade. This is because the loose board to the side is the same thickness as the template. Adjust and repeat as necessary to get the depth you want. Below is the result of how I set the blade for this operation, a 5/32 inch deep cut.
(Baseboard Cut Depth)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522573[/ATTACH]
I want a wider cut than one blade width allows, so I start by routing a little further inside the edge in a first pass. The result of this freehand operation and the slight unsteadiness may be seen below. I like to get a cut from the two passes that is about 1/2 inch wide total.
The loose scrap board in the center of the template keeps the back of the router steady. It moves around easily as cutting progresses, always leaving a gap as the router moves around the template.
(Baseboard First Pass)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522574[/ATTACH]
This shows just some of the sawdust left behind after cutting. There's an interesting phenomenon. When cutting all the way through a piece of wood, a router can allow the sawdust to escape below and behind the cut being made. But, when cutting just part way through a piece of wood, the material has nowhere to go but up. So you might be prepared for a mini-snowstorm of sawdust.
(Baseboard Dust)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522576[/ATTACH]
If anything is wrong with the router or the blade, it can be dealt with better on the first, or inside pass. The second pass completes the routing process. This is the outside edge that shows. The second pass has been completed. The router is set safely to the side.
(Baseboard Second Pass)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522578[/ATTACH]
The start point may be seen below. The first pass, I tipped the router up on its edge a little, turned it on and pushed the blade into the wood at the place you can see in the picture. The second pass, I didn't have to tip the router. I just placed the blade in the previous spot before turning it on.
(Baseboard Start Point)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522580[/ATTACH]
I was working hard to get this done and before I knew it I had made the inner cut with a jigsaw and forgot to take pictures. But it is easier to describe than the routing process.
Each side of the cutout should have a step of between 1/4 and 1/2 inch, depending on the machine. Additional allowances must be made for the hinge bosses and any other protrusions of the machine. I think it's best to keep the biggest step possible, making notches where needed.
This baseboard is one I'm experimenting with to hold Singers and similar, either with or without the treadle belt plate. The cutout is 7 inches by 16 5/8 inches, plus a slight allowance for fit. The step is 1/4 inch on all sides except the right, which is 1/2 inch. I anticipate needing to work on the right side, but don't know how much yet. If I eliminated the right hand step, it could accommodate a Necchi Supernova, for example, which has no edge at all on the right. But I'd lose the step as support. Just one of the trade-off decisions in trying to make it as universal as possible.
NOTE: I have not maximized the size of the stepped edges here, making them only 1/4 inch on three sides. Because I am experimenting, I want to try the greatest number of machines possible without a lot of effort. Once I can get machines into the stand, I can easily turn them upside down and see how much room there is on each side. I should know a lot more shortly, with the help of this very baseboard. I'll probably remake the baseboard based on what I discover with a variety of machines.
(Baseboard Cutout)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522581[/ATTACH]
A close up of one corner shows the sharp edge and step. The step and the inside edge surface still need a lot of finish work. I'll wait until I've done more machine tests. Better wood, that I mentioned earlier, has less splintering and chipping from the router cuts.
(Baseboard Corner Close Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522582[/ATTACH]
I'm still not finished with the baseboard. My intention is to try it with a variety of machines to make it as universal as possible. It needs to be tested with a variety of machines and a final best inner contour may need additional adjustments. I'll wait to finish sanding and painting until that is done. But I think that this is far enough along for you to see the process and the result.
While I used a hand jigsaw this time, when the inner contour is defined, I will make a template for doing this with a router which will make a much smoother cut. And it will be faster.
To finish the baseboard, I will fill and sand the stepped edges, the screw holes and any other blemishes. Then I'll paint it, after which I'll put felt around the edge to make a nice surface for a machine to sit on.
I hope this has been an understandable overview of baseboard fabrication. If I've missed anything or if someone wants more detail, I'll provide it if I can. Comments or questions are welcome.
I'll probably turn next to the support base and locking mechanisms.
John
Making The Baseboard (...continued)
Below I've shown my setup for the template and the router. A loose board the same thickness as the template allows a gap, seen to the left of the template, that the router can sit safely on when not being used. It also provides a way to easily measure and adjust the depth of the cut and lock the blade into the desired depth position.
(Baseboard Router Setup)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522572[/ATTACH]
The depth of cut may be tested by carefully (very carefully) sliding a block of wood underneath the loose board to the side of the template and into the blade. Sliding the block along the underside of the loose board will put the test block in the same position as the baseboard, relative to the blade. This is because the loose board to the side is the same thickness as the template. Adjust and repeat as necessary to get the depth you want. Below is the result of how I set the blade for this operation, a 5/32 inch deep cut.
(Baseboard Cut Depth)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522573[/ATTACH]
I want a wider cut than one blade width allows, so I start by routing a little further inside the edge in a first pass. The result of this freehand operation and the slight unsteadiness may be seen below. I like to get a cut from the two passes that is about 1/2 inch wide total.
The loose scrap board in the center of the template keeps the back of the router steady. It moves around easily as cutting progresses, always leaving a gap as the router moves around the template.
(Baseboard First Pass)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522574[/ATTACH]
This shows just some of the sawdust left behind after cutting. There's an interesting phenomenon. When cutting all the way through a piece of wood, a router can allow the sawdust to escape below and behind the cut being made. But, when cutting just part way through a piece of wood, the material has nowhere to go but up. So you might be prepared for a mini-snowstorm of sawdust.
(Baseboard Dust)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522576[/ATTACH]
If anything is wrong with the router or the blade, it can be dealt with better on the first, or inside pass. The second pass completes the routing process. This is the outside edge that shows. The second pass has been completed. The router is set safely to the side.
(Baseboard Second Pass)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522578[/ATTACH]
The start point may be seen below. The first pass, I tipped the router up on its edge a little, turned it on and pushed the blade into the wood at the place you can see in the picture. The second pass, I didn't have to tip the router. I just placed the blade in the previous spot before turning it on.
(Baseboard Start Point)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522580[/ATTACH]
I was working hard to get this done and before I knew it I had made the inner cut with a jigsaw and forgot to take pictures. But it is easier to describe than the routing process.
Each side of the cutout should have a step of between 1/4 and 1/2 inch, depending on the machine. Additional allowances must be made for the hinge bosses and any other protrusions of the machine. I think it's best to keep the biggest step possible, making notches where needed.
This baseboard is one I'm experimenting with to hold Singers and similar, either with or without the treadle belt plate. The cutout is 7 inches by 16 5/8 inches, plus a slight allowance for fit. The step is 1/4 inch on all sides except the right, which is 1/2 inch. I anticipate needing to work on the right side, but don't know how much yet. If I eliminated the right hand step, it could accommodate a Necchi Supernova, for example, which has no edge at all on the right. But I'd lose the step as support. Just one of the trade-off decisions in trying to make it as universal as possible.
NOTE: I have not maximized the size of the stepped edges here, making them only 1/4 inch on three sides. Because I am experimenting, I want to try the greatest number of machines possible without a lot of effort. Once I can get machines into the stand, I can easily turn them upside down and see how much room there is on each side. I should know a lot more shortly, with the help of this very baseboard. I'll probably remake the baseboard based on what I discover with a variety of machines.
(Baseboard Cutout)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522581[/ATTACH]
A close up of one corner shows the sharp edge and step. The step and the inside edge surface still need a lot of finish work. I'll wait until I've done more machine tests. Better wood, that I mentioned earlier, has less splintering and chipping from the router cuts.
(Baseboard Corner Close Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]522582[/ATTACH]
I'm still not finished with the baseboard. My intention is to try it with a variety of machines to make it as universal as possible. It needs to be tested with a variety of machines and a final best inner contour may need additional adjustments. I'll wait to finish sanding and painting until that is done. But I think that this is far enough along for you to see the process and the result.
While I used a hand jigsaw this time, when the inner contour is defined, I will make a template for doing this with a router which will make a much smoother cut. And it will be faster.
To finish the baseboard, I will fill and sand the stepped edges, the screw holes and any other blemishes. Then I'll paint it, after which I'll put felt around the edge to make a nice surface for a machine to sit on.
I hope this has been an understandable overview of baseboard fabrication. If I've missed anything or if someone wants more detail, I'll provide it if I can. Comments or questions are welcome.
I'll probably turn next to the support base and locking mechanisms.
John
06-21-2015, 05:43 PM
#59
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
SUPPORT BASE
In this post I'm going to detail the construction of a support base. The one described is the original or prototype model that was developed here. It is simple, strong and easy to build.
I offered some alternative ideas for supporting a swing frame earlier in this thread. Any of those ideas could be used as an alternative to this.
Tools
I'm a bit hesitant to recommend tools, since there are lots of ways to cut a board or drill a hole. People shouldn't think they need these particular tools in order to build this. But a miter saw can make things quicker and easier. If you have one, or if you know where to borrow or get one, it would be worth considering. The one I use is called a Compound Miter Saw, made by Craftsman (Sears).
(Compound Miter Saw)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523054[/ATTACH]
There also is a type of drill bit that works well for the larger holes that need to be drilled (1/2", 5/8" and 1"). I call it a paddle bit. It is also sometimes called a Speed-Bor bit, after the company that made them. I'll show a picture so that there is no confusion.
(Paddle Bit)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523055[/ATTACH]
This kind of bit scores the wood beforehand around where it will cut. This keeps the wood from splintering around the edge. It cuts a nice hole all the way through, but it is necessary to drill through and into another piece of wood beneath it, for the bottom of the hole not to splinter.
Construction
This support base is constructed primarily from 2 x 4 wood pieces, which should be easy to obtain. So long as the wood is straight and fairly dry it should work fine. Dryness of wood may be roughly determined from its weight. You may notice that two boards, that are the same size, may vary in their weight. When this is the case, the lighter piece is probably more dry.
The support blocks in the center are made from 2 x 2 wood of similar grade to the 2 x 4s used. A small piece of 1/2 inch plywood is used for the circle.
I now have a measurement diagram of the various wood pieces that are necessary to build the support base. It is shown below. I'll go over making the pieces individually.
(Base Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523056[/ATTACH]
Verticals
Two pieces for the vertical supports are a good place to start. The two verticals are identical, except for one hole in the left one, used with the locking mechanism. It might be good to wait on drilling this hole until you are making the locking mechanism.
There is an easy way to mark the cutouts to be made at the top of each vertical. First, locate and mark a point that is centered on the side of the vertical, located one inch down from the top. Next, using a 45 degree guide such as a combination square, draw 45 degree criss-cross lines through this point. Then drill a 1/2 inch hole at the crossing point. Last, cut downward into the circle along the two 45 degree lines from the top. File the slight sharp points on the resulting hole and it's done.
I'd recommend using a paddle bit for the 1/2 inch holes. As mentioned earlier, back the vertical with a piece of scrap wood that you will drill slightly into, to keep the back side from splintering.
For the cuts, a band saw would be good, or a jigsaw, cleaning it up with a rasp. Even a hand saw will work.
The recesses for the lag screws can be made by drilling down about 3/8 inch with a paddle bit, following it up with a 1/4 inch hole all the way through. This will allow the head of the lag screw and a washer under it to remain below the surface of the wood.
The lower outside edge of each vertical is beveled to make it more comfortable for hands. This tends to be the place that one grabs the base when picking it up or moving it.
Foot (each side)
The two feet are cut to length, followed by a 45 degree cut on the front and the back of each. The two clearance holes in the middle of each foot should be marked from the vertical piece, just described above, and then re-measured to assure proper alignment of the lag screws before drilling.
Cross Member
The cross member has two small 45 degree cuts at the top of each side. Mark and pre-drill holes on the ends that will center the lag screws properly and will allow the cross member to sit about 1/2 inch above the bottom of the foot. This will allow 1/2 inch clearance under the cross piece when assembled. This clearance keeps the weight on the two feet. The cross member can't high-center.
Each end of the cross member has a treatment so slight that it is only shown in the enlarged illustration below. Essentially it's not flat, it's a point, a very slight one. The saw I used allows for other than 90 degree cuts. I adjusted it for two degrees off of square. I made two cuts, one from each side to the center of the end, between the two lag screws. Because of the slight point, the vertical may be positioned inward or outward by adjustment of the lag screws.
(Cross Member End)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523057[/ATTACH]
Assembly
The assembly of the right side of the base is shown below. Both sides are mirror images, so it should apply to the left side as well, but in reverse.
(Base Assembly)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523058[/ATTACH]
The support blocks and the circle used for standing the swing frame on end are shown in the illustration below. The blocks should be flush with the upper edge of the cross member and provide a solid, flat surface for the circle to rest on. Each support block is glued and screwed, using 2-1/2 inch drywall screws. The 5/8 inch downward hole through the cross member would be best made with a drill press, but a hand drill can be used if you are careful to keep the drill perpendicular both directions. The screws must be located to miss both the 5/8 inch hole and each other inside the cross member. I put the screws as far apart as I could on the support blocks, making the front screws higher up and the back ones lower, in order to avoid each other. The circle was cut using a hand jigsaw and is attached using four countersunk flathead screws.
(Support Blocks & Circle)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523059[/ATTACH]
All wood pieces were smoothed with a rasp as needed, then sanded smooth. The base was test assembled to assure that there wasn't any further sawing, drilling, filing or sanding to be done. With the prototype, several little things needed minor work. So don't be surprised if you find the same.
When finally done, the base was disassembled and given three coats of spray paint. The gray used for the prototype base is actually a primer, but very durable. It is Krylon 9183 Gray Primer. For the white circle, Krylon 8822 White Satin Paint/Primer was used. I got them at Walmart but Krylon is a common brand. Both of these dry very quickly and may be re-coated in as little as 10 or 15 minutes. After allowing 24 hours to completely dry, the base was reassembled and considered done.
Of course there is no reason you can't decide on different colors.
The next post will be about the locking mechanism that holds the swing frame and sewing machine in the position desired. I'll detail the one used in this prototype as well as explore some alternative ideas for locking mechanisms.
More soon ...
John
In this post I'm going to detail the construction of a support base. The one described is the original or prototype model that was developed here. It is simple, strong and easy to build.
I offered some alternative ideas for supporting a swing frame earlier in this thread. Any of those ideas could be used as an alternative to this.
Tools
I'm a bit hesitant to recommend tools, since there are lots of ways to cut a board or drill a hole. People shouldn't think they need these particular tools in order to build this. But a miter saw can make things quicker and easier. If you have one, or if you know where to borrow or get one, it would be worth considering. The one I use is called a Compound Miter Saw, made by Craftsman (Sears).
(Compound Miter Saw)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523054[/ATTACH]
There also is a type of drill bit that works well for the larger holes that need to be drilled (1/2", 5/8" and 1"). I call it a paddle bit. It is also sometimes called a Speed-Bor bit, after the company that made them. I'll show a picture so that there is no confusion.
(Paddle Bit)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523055[/ATTACH]
This kind of bit scores the wood beforehand around where it will cut. This keeps the wood from splintering around the edge. It cuts a nice hole all the way through, but it is necessary to drill through and into another piece of wood beneath it, for the bottom of the hole not to splinter.
Construction
This support base is constructed primarily from 2 x 4 wood pieces, which should be easy to obtain. So long as the wood is straight and fairly dry it should work fine. Dryness of wood may be roughly determined from its weight. You may notice that two boards, that are the same size, may vary in their weight. When this is the case, the lighter piece is probably more dry.
The support blocks in the center are made from 2 x 2 wood of similar grade to the 2 x 4s used. A small piece of 1/2 inch plywood is used for the circle.
I now have a measurement diagram of the various wood pieces that are necessary to build the support base. It is shown below. I'll go over making the pieces individually.
(Base Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523056[/ATTACH]
Verticals
Two pieces for the vertical supports are a good place to start. The two verticals are identical, except for one hole in the left one, used with the locking mechanism. It might be good to wait on drilling this hole until you are making the locking mechanism.
There is an easy way to mark the cutouts to be made at the top of each vertical. First, locate and mark a point that is centered on the side of the vertical, located one inch down from the top. Next, using a 45 degree guide such as a combination square, draw 45 degree criss-cross lines through this point. Then drill a 1/2 inch hole at the crossing point. Last, cut downward into the circle along the two 45 degree lines from the top. File the slight sharp points on the resulting hole and it's done.
I'd recommend using a paddle bit for the 1/2 inch holes. As mentioned earlier, back the vertical with a piece of scrap wood that you will drill slightly into, to keep the back side from splintering.
For the cuts, a band saw would be good, or a jigsaw, cleaning it up with a rasp. Even a hand saw will work.
The recesses for the lag screws can be made by drilling down about 3/8 inch with a paddle bit, following it up with a 1/4 inch hole all the way through. This will allow the head of the lag screw and a washer under it to remain below the surface of the wood.
The lower outside edge of each vertical is beveled to make it more comfortable for hands. This tends to be the place that one grabs the base when picking it up or moving it.
Foot (each side)
The two feet are cut to length, followed by a 45 degree cut on the front and the back of each. The two clearance holes in the middle of each foot should be marked from the vertical piece, just described above, and then re-measured to assure proper alignment of the lag screws before drilling.
Cross Member
The cross member has two small 45 degree cuts at the top of each side. Mark and pre-drill holes on the ends that will center the lag screws properly and will allow the cross member to sit about 1/2 inch above the bottom of the foot. This will allow 1/2 inch clearance under the cross piece when assembled. This clearance keeps the weight on the two feet. The cross member can't high-center.
Each end of the cross member has a treatment so slight that it is only shown in the enlarged illustration below. Essentially it's not flat, it's a point, a very slight one. The saw I used allows for other than 90 degree cuts. I adjusted it for two degrees off of square. I made two cuts, one from each side to the center of the end, between the two lag screws. Because of the slight point, the vertical may be positioned inward or outward by adjustment of the lag screws.
(Cross Member End)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523057[/ATTACH]
Assembly
The assembly of the right side of the base is shown below. Both sides are mirror images, so it should apply to the left side as well, but in reverse.
(Base Assembly)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523058[/ATTACH]
The support blocks and the circle used for standing the swing frame on end are shown in the illustration below. The blocks should be flush with the upper edge of the cross member and provide a solid, flat surface for the circle to rest on. Each support block is glued and screwed, using 2-1/2 inch drywall screws. The 5/8 inch downward hole through the cross member would be best made with a drill press, but a hand drill can be used if you are careful to keep the drill perpendicular both directions. The screws must be located to miss both the 5/8 inch hole and each other inside the cross member. I put the screws as far apart as I could on the support blocks, making the front screws higher up and the back ones lower, in order to avoid each other. The circle was cut using a hand jigsaw and is attached using four countersunk flathead screws.
(Support Blocks & Circle)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]523059[/ATTACH]
All wood pieces were smoothed with a rasp as needed, then sanded smooth. The base was test assembled to assure that there wasn't any further sawing, drilling, filing or sanding to be done. With the prototype, several little things needed minor work. So don't be surprised if you find the same.
When finally done, the base was disassembled and given three coats of spray paint. The gray used for the prototype base is actually a primer, but very durable. It is Krylon 9183 Gray Primer. For the white circle, Krylon 8822 White Satin Paint/Primer was used. I got them at Walmart but Krylon is a common brand. Both of these dry very quickly and may be re-coated in as little as 10 or 15 minutes. After allowing 24 hours to completely dry, the base was reassembled and considered done.
Of course there is no reason you can't decide on different colors.
The next post will be about the locking mechanism that holds the swing frame and sewing machine in the position desired. I'll detail the one used in this prototype as well as explore some alternative ideas for locking mechanisms.
More soon ...
John
06-22-2015, 06:22 AM
#60
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
This is very fascinating. Is there room for a screw driver when you work on the end areas or does this some how rotate so you can access those areas? Can this be mounted on an old treadle frame? I think I like the idea of one mounted on the wall. Are you going to market any of this?
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