Neesie

IF you're doing a block exchange, it's important to use 1/4" seams, for the pattern given.

However, if you are not exchanging a particular size block . . . .
As long as your seams are consistently the same width, your blocks will turn out fine. Even if you use 1/2" seams, your blocks will be fine and your points will match. Downside is the blocks will be smaller and you'll need more fabric to make extra blocks, for a certain sized quilt. OR you can start out with the cut pieces larger, to accommodate your wider seams (you'll still need extra fabric, for these wider seams). Consistency is what's important!

When I make quilt blocks for dog beds, I always use 1/2" seams. My points match and unless you look at the wrong side of the block, you'd never know I used wider seams.

Bottom line, find "your" perfect seam width and go with it. Use the side of your presser foot for a guide, if it's convenient. Use a line on your machine. Use whatever works for you and concentrate on consistency, rather than that perfect 1/4". BTW, Inever use a slight 1/4", unless it's by accident!

Meant to add - in addition to the thread used, the thickness of your fabric also influences your finished block, once the seams are pressed. If your seams are accurate but your blocks are still a bit wonky, make sure all of your fabrics are of the same thickness/weight.

DogHouseMom

Sarge ... I was once frustrated with it too.

You are not far from me, if you like I can either come by you, or you can come here and I can try to help you.

If this is not possible, I highly recommend Sally Collins books and video "Mastering Precision Piecing". This is what turned me around.

Tell us ... what methods and tools are you using already?

Do you use spray starch?? Trust me ... it helps IMMENSELY. Stiffer fabric doesn't want to twist as much when running through the machine.

Are you using a 1/4" guide? If so, are you adjusting your needle position? I've yet to find a 1/4" guide that really IS 1/4".

Are you using a walking foot?? Again ... this helps a lot. A nice even feed where the bottom fabric isn't tugging against the top fabric helps both pieces feed nice and straight.

Are you pinning ... and how?? Sally will teach you that you need to leave the fabric flat on the table when pinning, don't hold it up .. when holding it up you can/will distort the position of the fabric compared to when it is flat. Also, place every other pin horizontal to the fabric and the others perpendicular. This will help keep the position. And, use the longest pin possible and the tip of the pin should not encroach the 1/4" seam line.

Thread of course ... I know you mentioned you tried different threads, but you didn't mention which. I personally use Aurifil 50wt which is a 2 ply so is thinner than most 50wts, but not quite as thin as 60wt. I did recently purchase several cones of 60wt and I will try that as well.

Pressing. This process is more difficult for me to explain than to show, but this last step is just as important as the cutting and the sewing and if done poorly will give you a poor result.

Lastly if none of the suggestions are working for you ... are your blocks coming out slightly larger or slightly smaller? If larger ... no problem - trim them down. If smaller you can cut them 1/8" larger then trim them down if necessary.

The offer to meet is open though, I'm willing to help out.

Sue

mom-6

My machine only has one needle position. And my foot is wider than 1/4". So I determined where I needed to position my fabric that would result in blocks coming out the desired size. With practice I've managed to become fairly consistent. My seams are not always perfect, but more often than not they are straight and the finished block ends up the right size, so I'm happy with that.

Another trick I've learned is to cut just a bit differently, lining up the edge of the fabric so you can just barely see it on the "far" edge of the line for the measurement you want plus being sure the rotary cutter is held straight up, not angled toward the ruler. This gives you just that tiny fraction more space to maneuver when stitching and helps with making sure the pieces are cut consistently the size needed.

Hope this helps!

nancysp

I was also going to suggest looking at your pressing. I machine quilt charity quilts that others have pieced. Some of the pieced quilts look as though the haven't been pressed "cleanly" and there are lots of mismatched seams on those quilts. Have you taken a beginning quilting class? Many LQS's have one day class that goes over the basics, and 1/4 seams and pressing are basics.

Dolphyngyrl

If you want precision piecing try doing paper piecing or taking a class on precision piecing.

willferg

This is exactly what I did, because I struggled (and still do at times) with the perfect 1/4" seam and it got in the way of taking pleasure in quilting. Hang it there and give this a try!

toverly

I used to do the same thing, getting frustrated with any block that had to have exact 1/4" seams. I realized my 1/4" foot jiggles when I sew. It has a guide and I think that causes it to move when the presser foot is down to a fat 1/4 inch. I switched to masking tape at 1/4" as a guide on the sewing bed. I have a simple machine and cannot adjust the needle as much, it is either in the center or far to the left. Also, I started looking for blocks that didn't require an exact end measurement. Like the Disappearing 9 Patch, it can be cut down and squared to any size as long as it is cut the same on each block. It sure makes sewing and quilting so much more fun.

judylg

The 1/4 inch seam has been difficult for me, if I use the guide on my foot, the block always ends up too small. If I do a scant, I have to cut off to square the block. Go figure, I can't. Sometimes I do think my guide on the foot flexes and that is no help at all. I think my next criteria for a new machine is to try it out and see if the 1/4 inch is exactly that.

Nammie to 7

One thing to be careful with is the cutting - I always cut on the "outside" of the line on the ruler - cutting on the "inside" of the line can make a difference of 1/8 of an inch. Using a fine thread for the stitching gives you a thread or two on each piece. Iron very well - making sure the fabric is folded over and pressed firmly.

Good luck to you!

jeanharville

Some award winning quilters shorten their stitch length and sew an exact 1/4 inch seam (not scant) then they press their seams open. This does away with the seam allowance problem because you don't have to account for the width of the thread and fabric folded over. Some quilters think this is not a strong enough seam, but with shorter stitch length, I think it is fine. After all our garments that we wear and wash everyday hold up for years. Some of the Craftsy teachers teach this method and it removes a lot of stress in quilting.