Go Back  Quiltingboard Forums >
  • Main
  • Hand Basting for Machine Quilting >
  • Hand Basting for Machine Quilting

  • Hand Basting for Machine Quilting

    Thread Tools
     
    Old 08-26-2015, 05:07 AM
      #11  
    Power Poster
     
    Join Date: Jun 2011
    Location: Southern California
    Posts: 19,127
    Default

    I prefer pin basting and have quilted long enough to be able to position the pins where they won't interfere with my quilting. Depending on your batting is how close I would baste. I usually clipped the thread before the needle arrived to prevent any entanglement with the foot on my Bernina.
    ManiacQuilter2 is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 05:42 AM
      #12  
    Senior Member
    Thread Starter
     
    Join Date: Feb 2012
    Posts: 673
    Default

    Originally Posted by ManiacQuilter2
    I prefer pin basting and have quilted long enough to be able to position the pins where they won't interfere with my quilting. Depending on your batting is how close I would baste. I usually clipped the thread before the needle arrived to prevent any entanglement with the foot on my Bernina.
    I knew that people used safety pins to baste, but it's fascinating to learn that some people actually prefer that method. To me, they qualify as masochists.

    My question, however, was about thread basting, most recently I was curious how those who use water-soluble thread stabilize the layers of a full-size quilt to machine baste it.

    I haven't had a problem with the foot of the sewing machine getting tangled in conventional thread basting because I basted it from the back, taking stitches small enough so they didn't get caught in the foot on the pieced side.

    I have to buy a Bernina? This is getting expensive.
    Manalto is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 05:54 AM
      #13  
    Power Poster
     
    Join Date: Mar 2013
    Location: Corpus Christi, Tx.
    Posts: 16,105
    Default

    I baste using the Sharon Schamber method. I have an 8 ft. bench I can work on with plenty of space. Pretty quick after you get started.
    tessagin is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 06:05 AM
      #14  
    Power Poster
     
    Join Date: Dec 2010
    Location: Michigan
    Posts: 11,276
    Default

    Originally Posted by Manalto
    I don't see the point of basting by hand if it's water soluble. ...
    Not sure where you are going with this comment. You hand baste with WS thread, just like normal thread, machine quilt, then throw the quilt in the wash instead of picking out the basting. Or you can pull the basting out by hand and just spritz the areas where the basting got caught in the quilting & it's difficult to remove.
    PaperPrincess is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 06:57 AM
      #15  
    Super Member
     
    Join Date: May 2013
    Location: Ballwin, MO
    Posts: 4,256
    Default

    These two videos show Sharon Schamber's method. She emphasizes that the tatting thread, being rough and unpolished, really grips the fabric, and that the herringbone stitch, because of the change of direction, will not shift. It holds wonderfully for machine quilting. You remove the basting in the area you're quilting, before quilting there. She recommends a width of three fingers between stitches.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhwNylePFAA
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_EjBGz5vGQ
    joe'smom is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 08:34 AM
      #16  
    Senior Member
    Thread Starter
     
    Join Date: Feb 2012
    Posts: 673
    Default

    Originally Posted by PaperPrincess
    Not sure where you are going with this comment.
    I'm just a little slow to catch on. I was thinking about how much easier it would be to baste by machine, so why not do it that way? Well... because if you could put it through the machine with the layers all stable to baste it, why not just do your quilting? You have to cut me a little slack; I'm new at this, plus it was really early in the morning before my cup of vitality. But thanks for clarifying.
    Manalto is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 09:56 AM
      #17  
    Senior Member
    Thread Starter
     
    Join Date: Feb 2012
    Posts: 673
    Default

    Originally Posted by joe'smom
    These two videos show Sharon Schamber's method. She emphasizes that the tatting thread, being rough and unpolished, really grips the fabric, and that the herringbone stitch, because of the change of direction, will not shift. It holds wonderfully for machine quilting. You remove the basting in the area you're quilting, before quilting there. She recommends a width of three fingers between stitches.
    Thanks for this. I've seen the wrap-it-around-a-board method before; I didn't realize that Sharon Shamber invented it. I'm going to try it; I like its compactness. One thing I did right, or at least according to her method, was the herringbone stitch, which I mistakenly called a zigzag stitch. 2 1/2" spacing seems tight, but the stability is probably needed for some projects. (I spaced my stitches 3 of Shrek's fingers apart.) She doesn't explain why you shouldn't quilt over the stitches. It seems so much easier to remove it at the end, rather than de-stabilize an area you're going to quilt. Do you know why?

    I looked up DMC tatting thread and it comes in several weights. Do you know which weight would be good for this purpose?
    Manalto is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 01:04 PM
      #18  
    Senior Member
     
    Join Date: Oct 2010
    Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts: 445
    Default

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=bhwNylePFAA

    This is a video by Sharon Schamber. She shows how to hand baste any size quilt. I tried it and it is easy and fast and no pins to remove.
    Linda71 is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 01:19 PM
      #19  
    Senior Member
    Thread Starter
     
    Join Date: Feb 2012
    Posts: 673
    Default

    Thanks. It's a great technique.
    Why does Sharon Schamber say you shouldn't quilt over the basting stitches?
    Why does Sharon Schamber say you should make the backing and batting 3" larger than the top around all edges?
    DMC tatting thread comes in several weights; which is correct for hand basting?

    Last edited by Manalto; 08-26-2015 at 01:21 PM.
    Manalto is offline  
    Old 08-26-2015, 01:29 PM
      #20  
    Super Member
     
    Join Date: May 2013
    Location: Ballwin, MO
    Posts: 4,256
    Default

    The basting stitches are hard to remove if they've been stitched over. It is very easy to remove them while quilting (I am a slow quilter and am constantly stopping to consider my next step anyway, so I don't consider it an inconvenience).

    My little skein of DMC tatting thread has an 80 on the front.

    It is easier to quilt the edge of your quilt if you have extra batting and backing around the outside.
    joe'smom is offline  
    Related Topics
    Thread
    Thread Starter
    Forum
    Replies
    Last Post
    luckydiver17
    Main
    8
    03-31-2014 02:05 PM
    krysti
    Main
    60
    03-25-2012 11:22 AM
    craftybear
    Links and Resources
    1
    12-28-2010 02:28 PM
    Bottle Blonde
    Main
    5
    01-04-2010 08:21 PM
    shaverg
    Main
    14
    03-30-2009 11:51 AM

    Posting Rules
    You may not post new threads
    You may not post replies
    You may not post attachments
    You may not edit your posts

    BB code is On
    Smilies are On
    [IMG] code is On
    HTML code is On
    Trackbacks are Off
    Pingbacks are Off
    Refbacks are Off



    FREE Quilting Newsletter