machine quilting threads
10-30-2011, 07:08 AM
#21
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Southwest Kansas
Posts: 4,820
Originally Posted by annesthreads
Originally Posted by DogHouseMom
What model Janome do you have? I have the 6600 and have no problem with the King Tut threads, or even Aurifil 28 wt!! I have also had no problem getting a heavier Connecting Threads Essential through the tension discs (but stopped using that thread because of all the fuzz it creates down in the needle and bobbin area!).
I suspect your discs might need to be cleaned. Perhaps you were using a thread with a lot of fluff, and the fluff is now embedded in the discs??
King Tut is a great thread, and IMO not too "thick" to get through the tension discs.
I suspect your discs might need to be cleaned. Perhaps you were using a thread with a lot of fluff, and the fluff is now embedded in the discs??
King Tut is a great thread, and IMO not too "thick" to get through the tension discs.
10-30-2011, 09:49 AM
#22
Banned
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Colorado
Posts: 1,376
I use King Tut on my Janome quite a bit. I changed the needle to a 14 top stitch needle because the thread shredded whan I used a smaller sized needle, but I didn't have to mess with the tension. I've found that I have better results with the larger topstitch needle when I use black 40 weight cotton threads also.
10-30-2011, 10:51 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: SE PA
Posts: 360
I know you are saying it jams in the tension disks, but have you tried using a #14 top stitch needle with the larger eye and deeper groove? Have not experienced your problem on my Janome. Hope you find a solution.
10-30-2011, 07:22 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: S. E. Ohio
Posts: 85
Originally Posted by ckcowl
and when choosing by weight- the higher the number the finer the thread---12 wt thread is like a string- very heavy/course---50 wt thread is quite fine---silk thread is often 60-100 wt.
the reason the numbers are how they are-is based on how many miles of thread it takes to get a pound---if it takes 20 miles of thread to = a pound--that is 20 wt thread---if it takes 40 miles to = a pound that is 40wt thread....ect.
the reason the numbers are how they are-is based on how many miles of thread it takes to get a pound---if it takes 20 miles of thread to = a pound--that is 20 wt thread---if it takes 40 miles to = a pound that is 40wt thread....ect.
WOW! I feel pretty stupid, because I've been sewing for over 40 yrs. and quilting for around 5 now and I didn't even know this about thread. Thanks for the info ckcowl. You learn something everytime you log onto this site! I love it.......
I had a question. Does anyone on here use Aurifil thread? I was just on Keepsake Quilting and they had a 10 pack of 50 wt. Wild Rose....gorgeous....for $40.00. Just wondering if that was a good deal?
10-31-2011, 03:48 AM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island
Posts: 147
I think it is the needle, not thread. Some have larger "eyes" and let thread pass through easier. (i.e., Topstitch vs Universal - has nothing to do with the needle #) I'm new to learning about this so can't give you specific advice. Try using a loop or magnifier to compare eyes.
10-31-2011, 04:12 AM
#28
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Australia
Posts: 4,116
Are you sure that it says Machine quilting thread on the spool, or just Quilting thread? I think that you may have been trying to use hand quilting thread in your machine and it will gunk up your tension discs. The only "quilting" thread that will not do this, to my knowledge, is the Mettler brand. Otherwise, I think you should just use plain thread when you are quilting by machine. Hope this helps.
10-31-2011, 04:35 AM
#30
Super Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Southwest Kansas
Posts: 4,820
I was told once upon a time by a machine repairman that "my machine only likes ___" means "I don't know how to adjust my machine for __" It's just a machine and will use anything. The biggest problem is not having the right thread and needle combination.
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