My Machine Binding done this way is never full. Any tips ?
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,729
My Machine Binding done this way is never full. Any tips ?
I am doing Machine Binding and have the same issue every time. My binding is not full.
I am sewing 2.5" binding to the front of the quilt using a 1/4" seam allowance. I turn the binding to the back of the quilt and bring the edge of the binding just over the seam line. (visible from sewing the binding to the front).
I use a lot of pins to keep the binding in place. Now I Stitch in the ditch on the front of the quilt along the binding in order to catch the Back of the binding edge.
I can't seem to get a full binding when I machine bind with this method. Any tips or advice Please and thank you!
I am sewing 2.5" binding to the front of the quilt using a 1/4" seam allowance. I turn the binding to the back of the quilt and bring the edge of the binding just over the seam line. (visible from sewing the binding to the front).
I use a lot of pins to keep the binding in place. Now I Stitch in the ditch on the front of the quilt along the binding in order to catch the Back of the binding edge.
I can't seem to get a full binding when I machine bind with this method. Any tips or advice Please and thank you!
#4
Super Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Sunny Florida
Posts: 4,431
You can stitch the binding on using a 3/8" seam allowance.
I sew binding onto the back using 3/8" seam then turn over to front and stitch down. I can see where the stitches are on the front and control the corner turns easier.
Or cut the binding smaller as mentioned above.
I made some scrap samples of both to determine which method worked for me. Generally, I don't iron the binding in half before stitching either. The binding edge lays flatter without the ironed edge. A light press to flatten the binding edge afterwards and it's all good.
I sew binding onto the back using 3/8" seam then turn over to front and stitch down. I can see where the stitches are on the front and control the corner turns easier.
Or cut the binding smaller as mentioned above.
I made some scrap samples of both to determine which method worked for me. Generally, I don't iron the binding in half before stitching either. The binding edge lays flatter without the ironed edge. A light press to flatten the binding edge afterwards and it's all good.
#5
Power Poster
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 16,424
Full binding is for judges. I have found full binding does not hold up over time. It frays and looks worn faster then more flat binding. The edges of the quilt get a lot of wear so the more surface area on the edge the more wear. Where ever the full binding rule came from it needs to go back.
#9
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,472
I purchased a Martelli seam guide & stitch in ditch binding foot from Nancy's Notions online. It goes from 1/4" to 1" and is easy to get the seams on both sides to match. I sew to the front first, pin to the back & then adjust the width to make sure it's just catching the back binding where I want it. It comes out awesome on both sides!
#10
For me, anything more than 2.25" wide needs more than a 1/4" seam or it won't be full. If I'm not sure what I need, I sew several inches than pull it over and see if the seam is correct for the binding width. If not, I adjust.
I never use a seam guide, I just go by what I've got sticking out from the edge of the narrow straight stitch foot. I know if I can see 2-3 threads, that is right about a scant 1/4". If what I'm sewing is coming out a bit short, I sew so less is sticking out, and if it seems wide, then I sew with more sticking out.
I never use a seam guide, I just go by what I've got sticking out from the edge of the narrow straight stitch foot. I know if I can see 2-3 threads, that is right about a scant 1/4". If what I'm sewing is coming out a bit short, I sew so less is sticking out, and if it seems wide, then I sew with more sticking out.
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12-25-2010 09:49 PM