My Machine Binding done this way is never full. Any tips ?
07-14-2017, 01:30 PM
#12
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: PA
Posts: 10,703
How about using a very thin line of washable school glue on the binding to hold it in place while you sew. Try Sharon Shambers method for gluing binding and adjust her method to your machine sewing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE
I think there are two parts to this lesson and this will get you there and I think it can help. She hand stitches her binding and if you glue it after you flip it the binding to the back and press it, it should stay in place.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2hWQ5-ZccE
I think there are two parts to this lesson and this will get you there and I think it can help. She hand stitches her binding and if you glue it after you flip it the binding to the back and press it, it should stay in place.
Last edited by ube quilting; 07-14-2017 at 01:38 PM.
07-15-2017, 03:32 AM
#16
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,726
I purchased a Martelli seam guide & stitch in ditch binding foot from Nancy's Notions online. It goes from 1/4" to 1" and is easy to get the seams on both sides to match. I sew to the front first, pin to the back & then adjust the width to make sure it's just catching the back binding where I want it. It comes out awesome on both sides!
How do you adjust the width after you have pinned to the back?
07-15-2017, 05:24 AM
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 2,774
You can stitch the binding on using a 3/8" seam allowance.
I sew binding onto the back using 3/8" seam then turn over to front and stitch down. I can see where the stitches are on the front and control the corner turns easier.
Or cut the binding smaller as mentioned above.
I made some scrap samples of both to determine which method worked for me. Generally, I don't iron the binding in half before stitching either. The binding edge lays flatter without the ironed edge. A light press to flatten the binding edge afterwards and it's all good.
I sew binding onto the back using 3/8" seam then turn over to front and stitch down. I can see where the stitches are on the front and control the corner turns easier.
Or cut the binding smaller as mentioned above.
I made some scrap samples of both to determine which method worked for me. Generally, I don't iron the binding in half before stitching either. The binding edge lays flatter without the ironed edge. A light press to flatten the binding edge afterwards and it's all good.
07-15-2017, 09:42 AM
#19
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,857
If you use a 2.5" binding strip, you need to have the edge of your quilt wider to be inside the binding. A .25" seam will always leave you with extra space in your binding. So, 2 options - cut a narrower binding or make your quilt edge wider. Both options will solve the problem.
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