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Old 12-18-2017, 06:37 AM
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All good advice here. Have you researched long arm quilting on the internet or through your manufacturer. It always helps me to read all I can on methods. Do you have any opportunities to go to a quilt show with multiple
manufacters? Most tension issues are similar on all machines. Don't assume all problems are due to tension. As stated, go slow around curves. To get more mileage out of your practice pieces, use the same piece over again using a different color thread. And, try only one thing at a time to see if that is the issue before changing something else or it can get really confusing.
Maybe you can find a local longarm quilter who would walk you through all the steps and help resolve your issues.
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Old 12-18-2017, 07:55 PM
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I have a Nolting 24" Pro for 14 yrs and love it. email me and I will give you my cell nmbr and I can try to help you.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:44 AM
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I don't have a Nolting but I do have a Gammill. It is a good idea to check the tension with every bobbin change. If they wind just a bit different each time it will change the tension; maybe a time consumer but better than having to unquilt. Ask me how I know this!
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Old 12-19-2017, 06:58 AM
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I have a Nolting and have had several models. Tension is a big thing. My dealer, Joyce, has written on it, http://delightful-qs.com/blog1/2017/...g-the-tension/. She is very helpful. I have tension issues at times. Here are some first things to do:
Buy a Towa gauge for your bobbin. It is worth it. Then you are just fiddling with the top thread.
Scrupulously check to see if your frame is 100% level.
Slow down on curves.
Contact Joyce.
Check how the bobbin winder is winding the thread-evenly, tight tension.
Make sure your thread is good. I use Glide on the top, Omni or PremoSoft in the bobbin.
Make sure your quilt is loose in frame and not drum tight. This helped me immensely. I float my top. If your quilt is too tight in the frame, the fabric has no give, especially on curves.

If you have questions, private message me.

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Old 12-19-2017, 09:42 AM
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I bought a used machine from Nolting and they were really good when I needed help. Even with a long arm there is a learning curve are you moving the machine yourself?? If so you are the stitch regulator you have to learn to move with the machine and the speed of the machine. Yes you will need to adjust the tension that is why they put the tension thing on the machine different thread different batting different fabric all makes a difference. Just like on a domestic machine you don't sew silk the same way you sew cotton. You need to practice and get to know your machine.
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Old 12-19-2017, 10:07 AM
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When I got my longarm machine, I was told to ALWAYS wind the bobbin on my machine, not on another machine because the tension used to wind the bobbin is stronger on the longarm than it is on a DSM.
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Old 12-19-2017, 02:14 PM
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I struggled with tension issues for quite some time. I have an HQ fusion, and a Bailey before that. Never had tension issues with the Bailey. I really struggled with the Fusion, and am finally feeling like I've got it worked out.

1. I have to make sure the sandwich is quite loose on the frame. I usually have it snug and then back off 2-3 notches. I have to make sure I don't have it super snug side to side, or I'll have tension issues in that direction.

2. Turns out the five bobbins that came with the machine did not move smoothly in the bobbin case. Found this out when I bought the Towa Gauge - when pulling out the thread, the tension would bounce around between 100 and 300 - no wonder I'd have good tension and then a spot of bad tension and then good again.

3. I'm not good at telling if I've got things adjusted correctly. Installed a digital readout on the machine tension and have the Towa Gauge, so now I'm not guessing at where the tension is. I also never get the "lefty loosey, righty tighty" think correct.

4. I've been having increased problems the last 3 months, and this weekend it was getting really bad. Discovered a wad of lint behind the shuttle that was in affect pushing the bobbin case out a fraction of an inch. Just enough so the top thread did not slide over it nicely, so I was increasing my top tension to overcome it. So now I know to watch for that if I start having tension issues.

I also learned I was winding my bobbins too tight on the winder. I was using my Singer 15 to wind bobbins with the Bailey, and went to the winder with the HQ and was getting them too tight, in effect stretching the bobbin thread so that also added to uneven tension.

Last edited by Macybaby; 12-19-2017 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:54 PM
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Nolting has a companion bobbin winder. my Nolting is also picky as to what thread it likes, Superior and bottom line are its favs. Sounds like the bobbin needs to be tightened a bit. A quarter turn at a time till you start to see the loops disappear. Also, as others have said slow down on curves.

Watch the video too, great help.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:29 PM
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Such great advice on this thread. I'm going to bookmark it since I'll be purchasing a long-arm when I move.
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Old 12-19-2017, 05:38 PM
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I have a Gammill but learned on a Nolting. One thing about long arm machines is you do need to get comfortable with making adjustments, cleaning, and doing mechanical work much more so than on any domestic machine I have (and I have 5). It does take some time and experience to get to that comfort level so don't despair. My experience with Nolting is they do have good tech support--you need to call with very specific question and be able to calmly give them the info needed to work you through the problem--that's true with all long arm set ups! Good luck. If you have a friend with a long arm you might ask if she would come over and help guide you.
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