Tartan

I gave up trying to machine quilt with polyester batting. Due to the loose nature of it, it allows too much movement and the cotton fabric slides on it. I have much better luck with Hobbs 80/20 batt.

Onebyone

I smooth the quilt before the needle. I think Spray and Bond basting spray is stickier then 505. I make sure every inch is stuck together, especially the edges.

minibarn

I haven't read all the replies so forgive me if this is repeat information, and I am no expert at all but...When moving the quilt around are you making sure everything is nice and smooth again before starting to quilt again. It looks to me like your just pushing the quilt around then continuing on so it's not getting smoothed out.

Sorry you are having to unpick and I hope all the great advice helps you out.

rryder

I've had that trouble with a spray basted large quilt, due to shifting of the top (even though it was well adhered) when moving it through the machine. So what I now do is spray baste both the backing and the top, get them on and then add some safety pins here and there maybe 10" or so apart just to hold it together until I've finished stitching in the ditch. I ditch the whole quilt before I take out any of the pins. Doing those things has eliminated the problem for me, but I FMQ, I seldom use a walking foot. If this is only happening when you use a walking foot then I would add some pins to the spray basted sandwich and plan on ditching everything to get it stabilized before removing the pins. I would also check to see if you need to loosen the pressure on your pressure foot if your machine allows for that.

Rob

Kwiltr

One thing I haven't seen mentioned here is ironing your quilt sandwich after spray basting it together. It sets the spray and also shows up any excess fabric that perhaps wasn't smoothed out in the basting process when you layered it. Even after ironing, it is repositionable, and you can get it nice and smooth. As others have mentioned, you don't want to stretch your backing or top while sandwiching, because when you remove the tape, if that is what you are doing, the layer you have stretched will just snap back to it normal size and cause puckering fabric in the layers. I have used both Warm and Natural Cotton and Hobbs 80/20 without and issue. I have had issues with polyester or wool batts as they have shifting within the batting itself, so stick with the cottons or almost all cotton like the 80/20. After I sandwich the quilt, I always ditch the quilt on my domestic (9" harp too) with my walking foot, starting with the outside border, working in or the longest continuous lines. If have done several King sized quilts this way, without a pucker. Once the quilt is stabilized with your ditching you can go anywhere on the quilt without an issue. If I do an all over design without ditching, you will need additional stability as mentioned with pins or water soluble thread on a big quilt. And keep your quilt supported when working on it. Anyway, a bit of repeated advice here, but keep trying, it's doable. Good luck!

Kitsie

I have found and have seen it recommended by some of the "experts" that many of us pull the "layers" too tightly. They (the layers, not the experts!) will want to re-gain their original relaxed state.

In other words (and I have never had a problem since I learned this) lay down the backing, smooth and pat it by hand without stretching so there are no puckers or wrinkles. Spray lightly all over.

I fold the batting and then unfold a bit at a time from one end as I lay it on softly. Very gently smoothing with my hands and PATTING out any soft wrinkles instead of trying to stretch them out. The batting doesn't have to be centered as long as there is extra on all sides.

If you see a major boo-boo that you cannot "fix", pull that layer up from a corner and lay it down gently again. (Love spray basting for that!)

Repeat the same with the top - smooth gently and PAT the wrinkles.

I learned from this NOT to pull the layers tight and, fortunately, have NEVER had problems with folds and wrinkles on the quilt. Then I quilt with a 3.0 stitch - so a bit longer, not tighter than piecing. And my walking foot is always on! Hope this can help you!!

Prism99

Have you considered adding a suspension system for the quilt? Suspension systems keep most of the quilt off the sewing surface so it doesn't add drag. It also helps your shoulders and arms, because you don't have to move the entire quilt around as you work. Here is a link to a commercially available system, but there are also DIY instructions online. Some quilters, such as Leah Day, suspend their quilts from the ceiling.
http://www.jennoop.com/suspenders.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJGph8am6BE

cashs_mom

Are you saying you couldn't get the fabric to lay flat without any little tucks when you were pin basting? If so, then it sounds like something is wrong with your top or how you are laying it out. Pin basting shouldn't make "creases" in your fabric.

cannyquilter

Thanks so much for the advice. I don't stretch the fabric at all when basting just smooth it over. There are no creases when it's done, it's definitely when I'm stitching. I think I will pin as well as spray basting and also look at how I support the quilt when I'm stitching, I like the idea of basting with water soluble thread, I'll have a look for some. I am wanting to have some form of suspension for the quilt. I don't think you can buy anything here in the UK and neither I nor my husband are particularly handy but I've bought some bungee ropes and clips and just need some hooks to go in the ceiling so I'll try that. Thanks for the links. I've unpicked the worst of the tucks and will stitch them tomorrow morning, I've been looking after my two young grandchildren today and then had to call on a friend this evening so don't want to attempt any sewing when I feel tired. Hopefully I will be more successful. Thanks again for the sharing of knowledge.

MadQuilter

It looks like you didn't smooth the top enough and there was a lot of "give" - Also, did you SITD the long seams first? I would secure all the sashing lines in one direction then the other before doing the echo stitch on the star.