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Thread: Redwork question

  1. #26
    Super Member fxsts93kf's Avatar
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    Thank you all again for so much help! I would love to use the flannel but I don't know if I can get it in pure white and that's what it would have to be, so it's going to either be muslin or the fusible interfacing thanks for clearing up that mistake!!). The big thing is I have to hide the threads on the back so whatever will work to do that is what I'm going to use. I guess it's time to get out the embroidery book I bought a few years ago too! Again, my thanks to all!!

    Thimblebug6000 - good to know about the heat on the iron cause mine is HOT!
    Kelly

  2. #27
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    I would like to know where all of you find the redwork patterns that you use if anyone cares to divulge your sources.
    Thanks. Gladys

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackie Spencer View Post
    I do lots of hand embroidery. Just finished a baby quilt from Rabbits Haven Patterns. I always use Quilters Dream behind my embroideries. Its very light weight, needles like butter, and when my top is done, the LA lady who does my quilting just puts the batting and backing together and quilts it like any other top.
    This sounds like a great idea. Will have to try it.

  4. #29
    Super Member fxsts93kf's Avatar
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    Crabapple Hill has some nice patterns. The one I'm working on is Jolly Old Santa Table Runner by Pattern Press. I just Googled embroidery and redwork patterns and quite a few came up.
    Kelly

  5. #30
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    My redwork quilt pattern is from Crabapple Hill. They have great embroidery patterns.

  6. #31
    Power Poster twinkie's Avatar
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    I wish I could help you but I am anxious to see the answer.

  7. #32
    Senior Member newestnana's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by franc36 View Post
    I am doing my first Redwork hand embroidery. How I wish I had read this before starting. I did not know about backing my fabric. I have worked so hard so that no threads would show. With a backing fabric, the embroidery would have been so much easier. Thanks!
    I could have written this post. Having embroidered as a child, never with backing, it didn't occur to me to have a second layer to embroider through (and the red work pattern didn't suggest it). Hmmm. Watching these recommendations!
    marcia

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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gladygirl View Post
    I would like to know where all of you find the redwork patterns that you use if anyone cares to divulge your sources.
    Thanks. Gladys
    I just found my new favorite site after this one of course: www.needlenthread.com. There are tons of video clips on how to embroider and she shows very clearly how to work without knots. I'm rethinking the whole back of the work question now. I signed up for her newsletter. Off to a shop to pick up some new perle cotton to play around with! She also has some free redwork designs. Couldn't explore the site thoroughly or I'd be there all day. (Sound familiar?)

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by KLO View Post
    I'm a little late to the game but here is my two cents. I am working on Winter Wonderland by Crabapple Hill at the moment. I went with muslin for the backing and basted it on just as others have mentioned. However, I have a very talented and prolific quilting friend and she made a smallish snowmen wallhanging. She used something called Sticky Fabri-Solvy which is "printable". She printed her pattern on the solvy, stuck that to her fabric, then stitched through it all. Afterwards, she rinsed the slovy off and was left with just the fabric piece. It turned out great. I did not see any knots or long threads where she carry them over. If I were to start a new piece, this is what I would use now too. Take that all for what it's worth.
    I have some of this but haven't tried it yet. I think this is more to mark your design without writing right on your fabric. Does that make sense? You could still have the problem of traveling and knots showing up.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by fxsts93kf View Post
    This is my first time doing redwork though I have done little bits of hand embroidery here and there in the past before. My question is this, the pattern calls for Pellon fusible (very light weight) but doesn't say which one. Are they talking about Wonder Under? I've used Wonder Under before.

    I have HeatnBond Lite Iron on adhesive by Therm O Web . It was given to me and I've never used it but from the directions it sounds like it might work. I don't have much extra fabric so before I iron anything on to it I would really like to make sure I'm going to be able to hand stitch through it.

    Any help would be truly appreciated!! Kelly
    Its called Shape Flex. You iron it to the back and then you won't need to use a hoop. Also there is a product called Transfer Eze . You print your pattern to this and then apply it to your fabric. No need then to trace your pattern. when you are done you just put your work in cold water and the transfer eze disappears.

  11. #36
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    I teach hand embroidery at our local quilt store in Clinton, Wi. and the absolute best thing to use is pellon SF101. It is a fusible apparel interfacing that looks like a fine muslin when iron onto the fabric. Don't iron it on until after you have traced the embroidery design. This stuff doesn't gum up the needle or offer any resistance. It hides all those little threads. Our shop carries it, but I originally found it at JoAnn's and bought a whole bolt after using it for a project. I always stress that the embroidery fabric have a high thread count--makes it easier to embroider. The best thread is sulky 12 weight which is available on large and now smaller spools. It looks wonderful, doesn't shred or separate and doesn't knot up as much as dmc. I used one large spool to do all the embroidery on the Winter Wonderland Quilt, so it goes a long way. The best needle (it is the only one I've found that is tapered from the tip to the eye) is from Scarlet Today (www.redworkplus.com) She also has cute hand embroidery patterns on her website. I think crabapplehill also sells those needles. When looking for patterns check out coloring pages on the internet--just google a subject and you can spend hours cruising through getting inspired. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to help.

  12. #37
    Super Member thimblebug6000's Avatar
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    dottiequilts, what pen are you using to trace your redwork design with? I have used a pigma pen & then it's okay to iron after it's drawn, but if a person is using a wash away pen you wouldn't want to iron the fusible onto the back after you had traced your design, or it would be heat set, right?

  13. #38
    Super Member AZ Jane's Avatar
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    Use the lightest available where you shop. I used it on this quilt for granddaughter but as you can see I did not stick with the redwork, LOIL Two shades of pink with green. Sorry, one more edit - this is a Jack Dempsey Needle Art, it is pre-printed and very easy to do.

    Name:  Kathleen 41 X 54.JPG
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    Last edited by AZ Jane; 03-16-2013 at 07:24 AM.
    Better to do something imperfectly, than nothing perfectly.
    Done is better than perfect.

  14. #39
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    I always use a pigma pen (with the finest tip they make) and try to match the ink to the thread I'm using for embroidery. If using several colors of thread, use a light brown ink. I never recommend using a wash away pen--tried it once early on and it was a mess and created a kind of heart stopping moment when I saw the color running all over my beautiful embroidery.

  15. #40
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    well, thanks to all, I have learned something new today already and it is only about 10:30am. I have hand embroidered, not very well, but tried---did a redwork quilt and am now working-more off than on! on a scrappy quilt that will have various hand embroidered flower baskets in various colors along with the scrappy fabric....Anyway, I have never heard of backing embroidery work.......My redwork is fine on the muslin I did it on, but if I have to travel with thread, I sort of wind it into whatever is there to wherever I have to go and I do knot but very tiny. I used to love to do cross stitch and there the backs were almost reverse of fronts so I guess that is where I get that practice. But, if I ever do another project, I certainly will use the softest fusible non woven interfacing I can find for backing.....thanks, for the hint.

  16. #41
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    Could this be Pellon interfacing which you use in garment construction? It comes in several weights and is fusible or sew in. I can see how that would help with redwork because sometimes it is hard to make sure your threads don't shadow through. I'm going to try a little piece with the fusible because I can see how this could really work.

    I just love hand embroidery, esp redwork. I inherited several sets of embroidered pillowcases from my mom. I didn't realize until later that her mother had made them. They were beautifully embroidered with handmade lace on the edges. I was shocked when I learned that my grandma had made them. My memories of her are of a large very unfeminine woman with a cigarette. I guess she did gorgeous handwork of all kinds. Since some of the pillowcases were worn out, but the edges were good I took them apart and made aprons using one for the bib and one as a border on the skirt. They are darling. Sorry for the trip down a rabbit trail. Lots of good memories here.

  17. #42
    Junior Member judord's Avatar
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    Kelly, if you are machine embroidering, then you must always have a stabilizer underneath the fabric you are embroidering on. Pellon is just one of many different stabilizers to use. Wonder Under is for fusing fabrics and not the same at all. All fabric stores carry it and you can order it on line also. It just keeps the design from getting messed up on the fabric. Good luck. I love redwork.
    Judy
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  18. #43
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    Although I haven't started my red work quilt yet - it's still on my bucket list, when I embroider faces for dolls I always put a layer of very light sew in interfacing, as this tends to hide the stray threads, plus give it a little more stability. I don't think I could recommend fusible interfacing or HeatnBond for red work,it would make the piece harder to stitch. That's just my personal opinion.

  19. #44
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    Yes the SF101 says that is is for garment construction. The first big redwork quilt that I did was the Winter Wonderland (back in 2007) and I basted muslin on the back as she recommended. I then did her Over the River, The Night Before Christmas, Calendula Patterdrip and the other halloween quilt from crabapple hill and found that I liked the SF101 better. The pieces for this are very large and basting muslin on the back absolutely smoothly was a bit problematic when doing wonderland and calendula, so I tried this fusible interfacing and liked how smooth everything looked. It does not make it harder to stitch and actually gives the fabric a little body. If you are having difficulty stitching, then you should try the needles I mentioned in an earlier post. A needle tapered all the way from end to end makes getting tiny stitches a lot easier. In my personal opinion when you are heavily embroidering a big piece of fabric that will later be quilted, it needs to be stabilized either by hand basting muslin on the back or using the SF 101.

  20. #45
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    The fusible I use for hand embroidery is pellon SF101 - Shape Flex. It is an all purpose woven fusible interfacing. It doesn't add a lot of bulk and is easy to hand stich through. I've used in when I want to put Onasburg in my quilts. That is such a flimsy fabric and the pellon adds just enough to stabilize it. Only one shop in my area carries this interfacing = it may be hard to find.

  21. #46
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    Lovely quilt! Dottiequilts, I'll have to look for those needles. I love the Sulky 12weight thread, too. Very convenient to use as well.

  22. #47
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    what do you mean by this?

    Quote Originally Posted by DonnaR View Post
    You can use a really this batting instead of the fusible pellon. Like Kathyd I basted it to the embroidery fabric.

  23. #48
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    Looked at the needlenthreads site and found lots of patterns I like---cut my square of fabric, ironed on interfacing and started embroidering last night--discovered I don't like the interfacing I used and the white on white fabric is hard to stitch thru the designs !!!! So I will finish it someday and use it for a small wall hanging. Going to the fabric store tomorrow and will have a better idea what to buy this time around. Pays to do a trial run for something you want to do, I guess.

  24. #49
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    I have had a lot of problems with thread breaking when using Sulky 12 wt thread. Any tips ?

  25. #50
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    I use thread heaven with my sulky and don't use too long of a piece to prevent fraying. A teacher told us to use a piece as long as your wrist to your elbow (approximately).

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