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    Old 05-25-2009, 08:16 PM
      #21  
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    Carol Doak's is the way togo. Reasonably priced too
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    Old 05-25-2009, 08:57 PM
      #22  
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    I've been using cheap crappy copier paper. The cheapest I could find. It held up fine, worked in my printer fine, and with one fold at the seam line, tore off like a dream. No problems!
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    Old 05-25-2009, 08:58 PM
      #23  
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    Where do you get Carol Doak's paper?

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    Old 05-26-2009, 06:23 AM
      #24  
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    I used tracing paper I got at Staples, but you have to trim it so it fits in the printer. I liked it because I'm new at it and I could see through a little. But its a little pricey. Cheapy printer paper would work too!!
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    Old 05-26-2009, 01:10 PM
      #25  
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    All my English paper pieceing I do by hand, mostly with my feet up, in front of the TV, but also when travelling. The hand work comes into its own when I am too tired to sit at the machine.
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    Old 05-27-2009, 06:56 AM
      #26  
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    I'm with the others. I use cheap copy paper, very small stitches and an #80 needle. I've been paper piecing for years and love it. With the smaller stitches, I just hope I don't have to unsew. Check twice before you sew.
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    Old 05-27-2009, 07:33 AM
      #27  
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    I had the same problem with getting blocks onto Muslin. I ironed the Muslin onto freezer paper, then ran it through the printer. It had to be no larger than 8and 1/2x11" since that is it for home printers. Or, you could take it to a print place for larger size.
    If you do it this way, make it longer than needed, as there is a time in the copying for it to grasp the paper. I did some experimenting and it worked for me.
    Let me know if it works.
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    Old 05-27-2009, 07:48 AM
      #28  
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    I found the best way is to scan pattern into computer and print out. Make sure the size is correct b4 you do al of them. the Tablet paper that they sell at Wal mart or anywhere they sell school supplies, is very good. It looks like the paper we use to us to practice printing on with the 3 big lines but is has no lines. It is only $2.00 and that is for a whole tablet. Tear if off and feed it into your printer. When you are done the paper is very easy to tear away. Hope this helps. Shelia
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    Old 05-27-2009, 07:58 AM
      #29  
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    First of all I have never used freezer paper for paper piecing as it is too heavy and stiff and I can think of no advantage to using it. The thinner your paper is the better. Tissue paper is good but hard to use in a printer for copies. Cheap news print works fairly well and squares of "sandwich wrap" are great if your printer cooperates and you cut it to the right size. It is available at Smart and Final stores or restaurant supply stores, otherwise I use the cheapest light weight copy paper I can find.
    The only use I find for freezer paper for quilting is to iron white muslin to it for photo copies in your printer or using double thickness fused together for applique. :)
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    Old 05-27-2009, 08:10 AM
      #30  
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    Well, you certainly received a lot of suggestions for a foundation for paper piecing. When I was teaching paper piecing I used vellium that I purchased from a neighborhood printer and after running the pattern through my printer, distributed a few sheets to the students. Vellium is easy to see through and you can remove it from the block easily. For personal use I use newspaper paper, purchased at an office supply store. Newspaper paper is thinner than vellium, but after cuting down to 8.5" x 11", it goes through the printer beautifully and is removed from the block quickly. For a complex block (New York Beauty or Mariner's Compass), I use non-fusible interfacing that remains in the quilt. You can also purchase Carol Doak's paper at Joann's (and use the 40% off coupon because it's a little pricy). Good luck with whatever you decide on.
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