Deborah12687

I use to use fray check to stablelize the fabric but the cost of the bottle has gotten quite expensive. What I do now is I use light weight fusable facing and cut it into 1/4 inch strips and iron it along the edges to stablelize the fabric. Then you can sew along the 1/4 inch seam. You can also zig sag or serge the 1/4 raw edges.

janb

"If you can dream it, you can do it..."

Holice

Just respect the nature of the fabric and you will be ok. Respect means the texture, weight, fibre etc., as indicated above.

bearisgray

I think it depends - to a certain extent - on what you plan to make with it.

Is it going to be in a "ladies guest room" and mostly just to "look pretty"?

Or

Is it going to be used by 10 year old boys that think quilts are to be used for tents and capes?

Or

In a glass covered wall hanging?

Washability? Durability? Does it matter?

You said that you've done a lot of sewing of garments - just transfer that knowledge of fabric behavior to quilted items.

(Think facing, interfacing, and fashion fabric) - except the interfacing is now batting and usually somewhat squishy and bulky)

JCquilts

I love the idea of using your dress fabrics in a quilt. No limits..
As for the interfacing, my favorite to use for this type of application is a fusible tricot interfacing. It stablizes the stretch factor, gives it a little more body, without making it stiff like other interfacing.

PMY in QCA-IL

I agree with the idea to prewash all the fabrics to see how they react (shrink, run, wrinkle excessively, etc.) then don't use any that are questionable if you are making a quilt meant to be used and probably laundered once in a while. Any thin fabrics could be used if backed by a light weight fusible interfacing or the fusible tricot as mentioned above.

neeng

Thanks for the suggestions, everyone! Now I can't wait to get started...but it's such a beautiful day outside, and I have garden cleanup to finish first, so I guess it will have to wait until after dark tonight.