What Brand Thread
#41
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 9,319
See, I don't know if this means they're not going to carry it anymore. I read this too. As I said, it's been this way for over a year. And they've been "clearance" priced and they keep having new doorbuster sales. I love their product, but this might just be a marketing ploy;>
#42
I have heard that poly cotton thread will cut cotton fabrics over time and that if fabrics are cotton they should be sewn with cotton thread.
Originally Posted by BKrenning
For piecing, I use Coats & Clark Dual Duty Plus on top & Sew Fine or Bottom Line poly prewound bobbins. There is a little fuzz but not much.
For quilting, I used to fight with C&C Machine Quilting thread but no more! I just tried a spool of Robinson Anton 50 weight cotton and it ran as smooth as silk. It does fuzz quite a bit but not as much as C&C and the quality is much better. Someone gave me a spool of Sulky Blendables and it was heavenly to work with but it's expensive. I also bought some King Tut but haven't used it yet. Many, many people swear by it, though.
I just finished 2 quilts and used the C&C Dual Duty thread in the bobbin with no problems at all. My plastic prewounds won't work in my mid-arm and I don't have any cardboard ones yet. I like the poly prewounds because they hold so much more thread and no lint. Also, I have to drag out my old mechanical machine to wind the metal bobbins for my mid-arm since I don't have a bobbin winder and they won't fit on my embroidery or piecing machines.
For quilting, I used to fight with C&C Machine Quilting thread but no more! I just tried a spool of Robinson Anton 50 weight cotton and it ran as smooth as silk. It does fuzz quite a bit but not as much as C&C and the quality is much better. Someone gave me a spool of Sulky Blendables and it was heavenly to work with but it's expensive. I also bought some King Tut but haven't used it yet. Many, many people swear by it, though.
I just finished 2 quilts and used the C&C Dual Duty thread in the bobbin with no problems at all. My plastic prewounds won't work in my mid-arm and I don't have any cardboard ones yet. I like the poly prewounds because they hold so much more thread and no lint. Also, I have to drag out my old mechanical machine to wind the metal bobbins for my mid-arm since I don't have a bobbin winder and they won't fit on my embroidery or piecing machines.
#43
Originally Posted by Candace
See, I don't know if this means they're not going to carry it anymore. I read this too. As I said, it's been this way for over a year. And they've been "clearance" priced and they keep having new doorbuster sales. I love their product, but this might just be a marketing ploy;>
I also noticed that when you go to their home page, it doesn't offer a link for Aurifil, just the Aurifil clearance link, so they aren't pushing it very hard.
But I don't know for certain - I'll have to keep an eye on the situation.
#44
I have had wonderful luck using Superior's Bottom Line in BOTH top and bobbin. It was recommended at a Libby Lehman class that I took. At that time I wouldn't have thought to use bobbin thread on top, but it works great. I buy the huge spool and put it on a thread stand to save money.
#45
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SW Minnesota
Posts: 1,120
I just read every reply to this question. I just got a long arm less than 2 weeks ago and have a few different brands of thread "to try out" on my long arm. So I found everyone's comments here interesting so it gives me some direction also in what brands I should try on my long arm. With thread being expensive, I am hoping to find a couple brands that work well on my brand of long arm (Tin Lizzie) and then I can just stick to using those brands.
#46
I use 50 Wt for piecing, lots of CT. Use YLI and Superior for piecing blocks w lots of seams like log cabins or really small blocks. I think one is 60 Wt 2 ply and the other is 50 wt 2 ply. Always use 40 Wt for quilting w 50/3 in the bobbin.
#47
Originally Posted by Prism99
I used Mettler thread for years in my Bernina sewing machine, but have finally decided it creates too much lint.
Have heard that Aurifil creates much less lint, so that is what I am going to try now. It's a thinner thread too so that more yardage fits on a bobbin. I'm ordering from the website below that someone else here recommended, as she is having a sale on Aurifil (50 wt is the one I'm planning to use for piecing) for $6 a spool thru December 31st. (Yikes, have to get my order in!)
http://www.sewezdesigns.com/index.html
Have also seen Masterpiece from Superior Threads highly recommended for piecing. It seems to me it is very similar to Aurifil, and I think I figured out that Aurifil is cheaper.
King Tut is often recommended for machine quilting. It is a little thicker than Aurifil and 3-ply instead of 2-ply. I am going to try the Aurifil variegated for machine quilting, but I'm tempted by the King Tut as it would be a stronger thread. It's just that it is about twice as expensive as the Aurifil on sale.
Have heard that Aurifil creates much less lint, so that is what I am going to try now. It's a thinner thread too so that more yardage fits on a bobbin. I'm ordering from the website below that someone else here recommended, as she is having a sale on Aurifil (50 wt is the one I'm planning to use for piecing) for $6 a spool thru December 31st. (Yikes, have to get my order in!)
http://www.sewezdesigns.com/index.html
Have also seen Masterpiece from Superior Threads highly recommended for piecing. It seems to me it is very similar to Aurifil, and I think I figured out that Aurifil is cheaper.
King Tut is often recommended for machine quilting. It is a little thicker than Aurifil and 3-ply instead of 2-ply. I am going to try the Aurifil variegated for machine quilting, but I'm tempted by the King Tut as it would be a stronger thread. It's just that it is about twice as expensive as the Aurifil on sale.
#48
What i am picky about is why i hand quilt with - YLI glazed cotton thread. Sadly, no one around here sells it :( I have to order it online[/quote]
I agree with Becca. YLI Glazed cotton thread is marvelous hand quilting thread. Easy to thread a needle with and not inclined to twist and knot up when pulling through the fabric. I have learned a lot from this topic on thread and appreciate everyone's input. Thanks
I agree with Becca. YLI Glazed cotton thread is marvelous hand quilting thread. Easy to thread a needle with and not inclined to twist and knot up when pulling through the fabric. I have learned a lot from this topic on thread and appreciate everyone's input. Thanks
#49
I was told their holding house is stocked with Aurifil name on the thread and once it's gone, it's gone. The Tre Stelle cotton thread is taking the place of Aurifil. The distributors of Aurifil for America is still having the name of Aurifil on the thread.? It was confusing but hey great prices and they are right there where it's made. I bought a lot of the grab bags for thread painting.
#50
Originally Posted by quilter41
I have heard that poly cotton thread will cut cotton fabrics over time and that if fabrics are cotton they should be sewn with cotton thread.
Not true. If you have attended one of Bob’s seminars, you have seen hands-on proof that this is a myth. Thread tearing into a fabric has nothing to do with the thread fiber type but with the strength of the fibers (both in the thread and in the fabric). Some cotton thread (such as glazed cotton) can be stronger and more abrasive than polyester." Bob Purcell, Superior Threads, Education, http://www.superiorthreads.com/educa...-and-what-isnt
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12-01-2012 04:16 AM