SCANT 1/4 INCH IS MAKING ME CRAZY
10-25-2012, 11:30 AM
#91
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Wine Country-Southern California
Posts: 1,449
yes, I too just move my needle a click or two depending on what foot I have on. I do prefer to sew with a scant 1/4", I know this drives a lot of people crazy, but I would rather trim my finished block down in size, than have it come out too small, it is so frustrating to expect and need a 12" block and only have it comes out 11-7/8", and then the next one 11-3/4"...and those that do come out 12" are a little on the wonky side....I would rather they come out a true 12-1/8- 12-1/4" and be able to trim down to a nice square 12"
10-25-2012, 02:33 PM
#92
Super Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 3,699
A 1/4" seams allowance should be fine for most projects. The only time a scant would really matter is if you have small piece and have a "gazillion" of them in your project. More important is to use the same sewing machine for the entire project. I haven't figured it out (and probably never will), but 1/4" seam on one machine isn't necessarily 1/4" seam on another, even if you use a 1/4" seam foot. Crazy, but true.
10-25-2012, 04:00 PM
#93
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Killeen, Texas
Posts: 329
I don't rely on a foot. I use a strip of heavyweight moleskin and butt my fabric up against that as I sew. My seams turn out much more even that way.
To measure the scant 1/4" for moleskin placement, I place my favorite cutting ruler under the presser foot, make sure it is positioned fairly straight front-to-back, move my needle position one place to the right (with my older Bernina I have to do this in order for the moleskin to clear the feeddogs), lower the needle so that it touches the ruler just to the right of the 1/4" line, and lower the presser foot to hold the ruler in place. I have already cut the moleskin into strips using a ruler and rotary cutter, so I just remove the paper from the back of the moleskin and carefully position it so it is butted up against my ruler edge.
Although I often use just a 2" or 3" long strip of moleskin, my preference if I am going to be sewing long
strips together is to make the moleskin strip even longer, so it is guiding the fabric long before the fabric actually gets to the needle.
Anyway, with this method I don't have to force my eyes to constantly look at the marking on a foot; as long as the fabric is butting up against the moleskin as it feeds, I am going to get a good seamline.
As someone else mentioned, thread thickness can affect seam width. Once you have the moleskin
positioned, it's a good idea to do a test of 3 2-1/2" strips sewn together so that, when ironed, you are sure the finished measurement is exactly what it should be.
Moleskin is available in the foot section of pharmacies. It is a cushioning product sold for placing on heels, etc., to prevent blisters or protect a blister from rubbing.
To measure the scant 1/4" for moleskin placement, I place my favorite cutting ruler under the presser foot, make sure it is positioned fairly straight front-to-back, move my needle position one place to the right (with my older Bernina I have to do this in order for the moleskin to clear the feeddogs), lower the needle so that it touches the ruler just to the right of the 1/4" line, and lower the presser foot to hold the ruler in place. I have already cut the moleskin into strips using a ruler and rotary cutter, so I just remove the paper from the back of the moleskin and carefully position it so it is butted up against my ruler edge.
Although I often use just a 2" or 3" long strip of moleskin, my preference if I am going to be sewing long
strips together is to make the moleskin strip even longer, so it is guiding the fabric long before the fabric actually gets to the needle.
Anyway, with this method I don't have to force my eyes to constantly look at the marking on a foot; as long as the fabric is butting up against the moleskin as it feeds, I am going to get a good seamline.
As someone else mentioned, thread thickness can affect seam width. Once you have the moleskin
positioned, it's a good idea to do a test of 3 2-1/2" strips sewn together so that, when ironed, you are sure the finished measurement is exactly what it should be.
Moleskin is available in the foot section of pharmacies. It is a cushioning product sold for placing on heels, etc., to prevent blisters or protect a blister from rubbing.
Great tip using the moleskin. It has a slight thickness to it unlike the tapes, which may be easier when trying to align the fabric before it gets to the foot. Thanks, Prism99!
10-25-2012, 06:51 PM
#95
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Kaua`i
Posts: 617
Ask and ye shall receive:
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/viking-quarter-inch-foot-4123708-45.aspx
http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/viking-quarter-inch-foot-4123708-45.aspx
10-25-2012, 10:33 PM
#96
Super Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Mechanicsville, IA
Posts: 1,497
I use Superior Threads ."Masterpiece" thread in the cones and sew at 1/4". I make sure the 1/4 is accurate br stitching two 2 1/4" strips together. Press then measure. If it comes out to be 4" wide i'm satisfied.
10-26-2012, 02:49 AM
#97
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Small town in Northeast Oregon close to Washington and Idaho
Posts: 2,795
Guidelines 4 Quilting makes a prep tool to get a 1/4" seam. It is a 1/4" ruler and you purchase their Seam Guides, (2" long each) which are thick and you lay the ruler next to your needle when it is down.
Then you take as many seam guides (I use 2) and lay them right next to the outside of the ruler. They are sticky on the bottom, but don't leave residue.
This outfit is awesome!!!
Then you take as many seam guides (I use 2) and lay them right next to the outside of the ruler. They are sticky on the bottom, but don't leave residue.
This outfit is awesome!!!
10-26-2012, 06:01 AM
#98
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 2,689
I have never understood why the 1/4 seam in the first place. We never used it in the past so what is the point? Everything now is based on this and I do not quilt even half of what I used to because it is so frustrating. Being on a fixed income it is hard to buy extra feet or anything else. Through venting now.
10-26-2012, 05:20 PM
#99
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 1,365
I ran into a problem with the scant 1/4" when I was trying to make blocks for a swap on a sm list I'm on. The blocks had to finish at a certain size because of the swapping, not like you were making them all for your own quilt. I could NOT get the darned thing right and finally gave up, deciding I'd just make my own little quilt! For that one I was sewing on a Singer 201 treadle. At that time, I got some of the Qtools Sewing Edge from Alicia's Attic but by then I'd given up so haven't tried them yet. Last spring I wanted a blanket stitch for applique so got the Brother CS6000i but haven't used it a lot so it's good to know I can change the needle position on it....will try that out! And re Aurifil 50 thread....have wanted to get that too so will definitely now to see if it helps.
When we had to use the scant 1/4" for that swap, I had never heard of it before and it was a bit bewildering! Do I understand right that so long as your seams are consistent, 1/4" instead of a scant wouldn't mess up the pattern? at this point I don't know if I ever want to try one again!
10-26-2012, 06:19 PM
#100
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,133
watch this 4 minute video and see if the need for scant makes sense:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBoLP...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBoLP...eature=related
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