Sewing Machine Work Stand
05-10-2015, 03:40 PM
#31
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Frederick, OK
Posts: 2,031
Thanks Jon. That’s interesting.
I would say that the “hay-day” for selling sewing machine vises came much earlier that 1951, like maybe in the mid and late 40s? Fifteen dollars for a gadget to hold a sewing machine while you rehabilitated it was a lot of money back then, wouldn’t you think? Twenty-six dollars for one with all of the bells and whistles could have possibly been even further out of reach. An independent shop (who Brewer primarily sold to) would have to rehab a great many machines to recoup the cost for any of the “Repair Jacks”, even if your shop just had one. An increase from $5 to $15 in forty-one years was definitely something worth noting, but with the war disrupting the supply of machines, maybe expected. With or without the devices, machine rehab probably saved a lot of small shops.
The 1951 catalog that I have showing the three different models available was possibly an attempt to get rid of the remaining stock when rebuilding machines was less of a necessity. I don’t know that for a fact, but by 1951, new models were out and the reconditioning was probably coming to an end. Although, evidently Brewer sold them all, because they don’t offer them that I can see today....
CD in Oklahoma
I would say that the “hay-day” for selling sewing machine vises came much earlier that 1951, like maybe in the mid and late 40s? Fifteen dollars for a gadget to hold a sewing machine while you rehabilitated it was a lot of money back then, wouldn’t you think? Twenty-six dollars for one with all of the bells and whistles could have possibly been even further out of reach. An independent shop (who Brewer primarily sold to) would have to rehab a great many machines to recoup the cost for any of the “Repair Jacks”, even if your shop just had one. An increase from $5 to $15 in forty-one years was definitely something worth noting, but with the war disrupting the supply of machines, maybe expected. With or without the devices, machine rehab probably saved a lot of small shops.
The 1951 catalog that I have showing the three different models available was possibly an attempt to get rid of the remaining stock when rebuilding machines was less of a necessity. I don’t know that for a fact, but by 1951, new models were out and the reconditioning was probably coming to an end. Although, evidently Brewer sold them all, because they don’t offer them that I can see today....
CD in Oklahoma
05-11-2015, 08:15 AM
#32
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,271
I made a baseboard over the weekend. I thought I'd post a picture of it, with the template I used to make it and the router I used to do it. It is for Singer three-quarter sized machines. One is coming up after the White Rotary 41, so it will be ready.
I'm learning to make the classic stepped cutouts used in cabinet tops and portable cases. I've figured out how to do it-- still getting better at it each time, though.
I didn't want to use a vice-grip like hold on the edges of a machine. I wanted a bed similar to that which the sewing machine base is designed for. A classic cutout holds the machine very well, if it has enough downward pressure to keep it held securely within the shaped recess. I think that it is the most gentle way to hold a machine. If I couldn't make this cutout, I couldn't make my envisioned work stand. So I tried it first, to save possible wasted effort with other aspects of the stand, if I could not. After a few tries I was satisfied that, with practice, I could make good cutouts.
(Baseboard/Template/Router)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519410[/ATTACH]
I've shown a closer look of one corner. I'm able to get a fairly good edge and contour. Its hard to see, but just above the curve is an additional notch, allowing for a rod on the underside, spanning the width of the machine. The notch lets me keep a full 3/8 inch step elsewhere. If you see any irregularity, it's probably the felt - which is a whole 'nuther thing to master. I like to put felt around the stepped edge, to be kind to the machine. Its easier on the baseboard, too. I'm still experimenting with different ways to cut and glue the felt strips.
(Baseboard Close Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519411[/ATTACH]
I'm learning to make the classic stepped cutouts used in cabinet tops and portable cases. I've figured out how to do it-- still getting better at it each time, though.
I didn't want to use a vice-grip like hold on the edges of a machine. I wanted a bed similar to that which the sewing machine base is designed for. A classic cutout holds the machine very well, if it has enough downward pressure to keep it held securely within the shaped recess. I think that it is the most gentle way to hold a machine. If I couldn't make this cutout, I couldn't make my envisioned work stand. So I tried it first, to save possible wasted effort with other aspects of the stand, if I could not. After a few tries I was satisfied that, with practice, I could make good cutouts.
(Baseboard/Template/Router)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519410[/ATTACH]
I've shown a closer look of one corner. I'm able to get a fairly good edge and contour. Its hard to see, but just above the curve is an additional notch, allowing for a rod on the underside, spanning the width of the machine. The notch lets me keep a full 3/8 inch step elsewhere. If you see any irregularity, it's probably the felt - which is a whole 'nuther thing to master. I like to put felt around the stepped edge, to be kind to the machine. Its easier on the baseboard, too. I'm still experimenting with different ways to cut and glue the felt strips.
(Baseboard Close Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519411[/ATTACH]
Last edited by OurWorkbench; 05-11-2015 at 08:17 AM. Reason: spelling
05-11-2015, 10:08 AM
#33
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
I think I like the "Boco" model the best. That one and the one in the middle can both be made by a competent welder at home. All three models were intended for a commercial setting where they are actually bolted to a dedicated workbench, a luxury most home mechanics wouldn't have.
OurWorkbench: Very nice looking base adapter.
Rodney
OurWorkbench: Very nice looking base adapter.
Rodney
05-11-2015, 01:02 PM
#34
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
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ThayerRags: Thanks for adding the "Repair Jacks". I would have never found or known about them otherwise. I looked at them for a long time. I'm not sure exactly how they grip the machine but it looks like one would have to be careful. I agree with Rodney, as to choices of the three. It looks like the Boco balances the machine better than the others. The Wedge Lock gives a lot of possibilities for orientation, but imagine the stress on the lock mechanism at some angles.
Rodney: Thanks for looking and for all of your kind comments and interest.
Rodney: Thanks for looking and for all of your kind comments and interest.
05-22-2015, 04:39 PM
#35
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Join Date: Mar 2015
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I've been preparing some additional photos of the work stand, with gratitude for the many positive responses I've seen. I am intending to post sufficient details to help those interested in having one of these useful devices.
I encourage anyone visiting here to leave a post, even a brief one, which will help me know who is interested and what information I can offer to be most helpful. Feel free to ask any questions. If anyone wants a work stand and can't get it built, I'll try to help. Send a PM.
SWING FRAME CONSTRUCTION
I suggest a modular approach to the stand. The three modular parts would be, the swing frame, the baseboards and mounting hardware, and lastly some sort of support base for the frame. Let's begin with the swing frame, as it is central to just about any design that could be conceived. It is the crucial component that repositions the pivot point to the center of gravity, giving easy, balanced movement.
(Basic Swing Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520409[/ATTACH]
The welds need to be strong. I have welds at all possible locations, top and bottom, inside and out. Particularly where the uprights attach to the frame bottom, the welds need to be able to carry the weight and stresses involved. I didn't file the welds at all, to keep all the metal that was there for strength. I just painted it.
(Frame Corners and Uprights)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520410[/ATTACH]
If you can get the swing frame done, all the other parts can fall into place around it fairly easily. One could, for example, cut the top of an unsalvageable sewing machine cabinet to create a baseboard. It has even been suggested to use this frame for something other than sewing machines.
And, while the base I built served well to prove the concept and design, there are a number of other configurations that might work better for you or fit better in your work environment. I'll post some other suggestions soon.
The swing frame metal stock may be obtained from many hardware stores or home improvement centers. I got the metal I used from Lowe's. Two three-foot lengths of one-inch angle iron are enough for the frame bottom. One three-foot length of one-inch perforated steel tubing will suffice for both uprights. Below is an illustration of how to cut and shape the pieces for welding. You need two of everything.
(Diagram - Metal Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520411[/ATTACH]
When I finally had the swing frame welded, before it was even painted, I tested its operation with a rough baseboard and a sewing machine. Having no fasteners yet, I clamped a 1x2 piece of wood, 9 inches long, across the sewing machine bed with C-clamps, front and back. I arranged two saw horses to be parallel at the correct width. I temporarily used large bolts extending outward from the uprights, as pivots.
It worked great. The benefit of balance was immediately apparent.
There I was, in the back yard, spinning a sewing machine around on two saw horses while an interested and confused passerby looked on for a short time. While a funny memory, it points out that if you have the swing frame, the rest can come together without too much difficulty.
More soon,
John
Coming: Pivots, Baseboards & Fasteners, Lock Mechanism, Stand Base Dimensions, Additional Frame Support Ideas For Work Areas
I encourage anyone visiting here to leave a post, even a brief one, which will help me know who is interested and what information I can offer to be most helpful. Feel free to ask any questions. If anyone wants a work stand and can't get it built, I'll try to help. Send a PM.
SWING FRAME CONSTRUCTION
I suggest a modular approach to the stand. The three modular parts would be, the swing frame, the baseboards and mounting hardware, and lastly some sort of support base for the frame. Let's begin with the swing frame, as it is central to just about any design that could be conceived. It is the crucial component that repositions the pivot point to the center of gravity, giving easy, balanced movement.
(Basic Swing Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520409[/ATTACH]
The welds need to be strong. I have welds at all possible locations, top and bottom, inside and out. Particularly where the uprights attach to the frame bottom, the welds need to be able to carry the weight and stresses involved. I didn't file the welds at all, to keep all the metal that was there for strength. I just painted it.
(Frame Corners and Uprights)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520410[/ATTACH]
If you can get the swing frame done, all the other parts can fall into place around it fairly easily. One could, for example, cut the top of an unsalvageable sewing machine cabinet to create a baseboard. It has even been suggested to use this frame for something other than sewing machines.
And, while the base I built served well to prove the concept and design, there are a number of other configurations that might work better for you or fit better in your work environment. I'll post some other suggestions soon.
The swing frame metal stock may be obtained from many hardware stores or home improvement centers. I got the metal I used from Lowe's. Two three-foot lengths of one-inch angle iron are enough for the frame bottom. One three-foot length of one-inch perforated steel tubing will suffice for both uprights. Below is an illustration of how to cut and shape the pieces for welding. You need two of everything.
(Diagram - Metal Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520411[/ATTACH]
When I finally had the swing frame welded, before it was even painted, I tested its operation with a rough baseboard and a sewing machine. Having no fasteners yet, I clamped a 1x2 piece of wood, 9 inches long, across the sewing machine bed with C-clamps, front and back. I arranged two saw horses to be parallel at the correct width. I temporarily used large bolts extending outward from the uprights, as pivots.
It worked great. The benefit of balance was immediately apparent.
There I was, in the back yard, spinning a sewing machine around on two saw horses while an interested and confused passerby looked on for a short time. While a funny memory, it points out that if you have the swing frame, the rest can come together without too much difficulty.
More soon,
John
Coming: Pivots, Baseboards & Fasteners, Lock Mechanism, Stand Base Dimensions, Additional Frame Support Ideas For Work Areas
05-25-2015, 04:33 AM
#36
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,271
PIVOT SHAFTS
With the swing frame done, better pivots were needed. Better than the bolts used for initial testing. Nicely machined steel rods with tapped end holes were beyond my means. It would have required a machine shop to do. As a home brew solution, 1/4 inch I.D. plumbing pipe is used. It has a larger outside diameter, a little over 3/8 inch. The ends were made very flat and perpendicular to the pipe. A large carriage bolt holds the pipe against several fender washers. When tight, it forms a strong pivot shaft for the frame. It is also easily adjustable. The disassembled parts are shown below.
(Pivot Shaft Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520657[/ATTACH]
The wooden discs were cut from 3/8 inch plywood, sanded smooth and painted. The disc on the left side is used to lock the frame in place. The lock mechanism used here will be covered in a later post, along with some alternate ideas for a lock mechanism. The smaller disc on the right is just for spacing, symmetrical with the other side. The final assembly is shown below.
(Stand-Swing Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520658[/ATTACH]
In the time since making these pivots, I have thought of a number of other ways that this could have been done. Anyone building this might consider other possibilities. It needs to be strong enough. It needs to be smooth in order to rotate easily. It should be adjustable. And it needs to be something you can do easily, depending on what materials and tools you have. If you think of something better than this, go ahead and be creative.
With the swing frame done, better pivots were needed. Better than the bolts used for initial testing. Nicely machined steel rods with tapped end holes were beyond my means. It would have required a machine shop to do. As a home brew solution, 1/4 inch I.D. plumbing pipe is used. It has a larger outside diameter, a little over 3/8 inch. The ends were made very flat and perpendicular to the pipe. A large carriage bolt holds the pipe against several fender washers. When tight, it forms a strong pivot shaft for the frame. It is also easily adjustable. The disassembled parts are shown below.
(Pivot Shaft Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520657[/ATTACH]
The wooden discs were cut from 3/8 inch plywood, sanded smooth and painted. The disc on the left side is used to lock the frame in place. The lock mechanism used here will be covered in a later post, along with some alternate ideas for a lock mechanism. The smaller disc on the right is just for spacing, symmetrical with the other side. The final assembly is shown below.
(Stand-Swing Frame)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520658[/ATTACH]
In the time since making these pivots, I have thought of a number of other ways that this could have been done. Anyone building this might consider other possibilities. It needs to be strong enough. It needs to be smooth in order to rotate easily. It should be adjustable. And it needs to be something you can do easily, depending on what materials and tools you have. If you think of something better than this, go ahead and be creative.
05-26-2015, 09:05 PM
#39
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,271
Cari-in-Oly - Cari, I'm glad to know you're interested in this. If the frame and pivots are strong enough and you have a firm grip on the machine, you'll have no problems. I'll help in any way I can. It would be great if you could post your ideas and progress here.
Farmhousesewer - Maria, I'm checking on some things. Let me get back to you soon.
John
Farmhousesewer - Maria, I'm checking on some things. Let me get back to you soon.
John
05-26-2015, 09:14 PM
#40
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Join Date: Mar 2015
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ADDITIONAL SWING FRAME NOTE
For anyone building a swing frame or having one built, I neglected to mention something. In addition to the uprights being perpendicular in two directions, placing a rod or dowel through the holes of the two uprights while welding will help to insure that neither of them is twisted slightly. If twisted, the pivots you mount later will tend to wobble.
I don't have a dowel handy, so I'm showing with an arrow. I hope it shows what needs to be in a straight line.
(Frame Axis)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520802[/ATTACH]
More soon,
John
For anyone building a swing frame or having one built, I neglected to mention something. In addition to the uprights being perpendicular in two directions, placing a rod or dowel through the holes of the two uprights while welding will help to insure that neither of them is twisted slightly. If twisted, the pivots you mount later will tend to wobble.
I don't have a dowel handy, so I'm showing with an arrow. I hope it shows what needs to be in a straight line.
(Frame Axis)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]520802[/ATTACH]
More soon,
John
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