Sewing Machine Work Stand
01-23-2016, 05:32 AM
#101
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
Packing It Up
I was asked recently two questions about the workstand that I was less than prepared to answer. The first was how much the workstand weighs. The second question was how small a package can the workstand be reduced to when not in use. I thought I posted something earlier in this thread, but I can't find it, so others probably can't either.
About sixteen(16) pounds is the weight of the complete stand. Of that total, the metal swing frame is about seven(7) pounds, the base is about eight(8) pounds and the baseboard and fastening hardware are about one(1) pound. The stand is about half the weight of a typical machine you might put in it.
On the second issue, minimum size for storage, I completely disassembled the stand and arranged it into its most compact size. As can be seen in the photo, everything fits nicely into the volume of the metal swing frame. Miscellaneous hardware, displayed below, can be bagged and labeled and included in the package.
(WorkStand - Packed Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]540859[/ATTACH]
The overall dimensions of the reduced package are 22 inches long by 9 inches deep and 12 inches high. This is the same as the swing frame itself with everything inside. For long-term storage or for shipping should it ever be desired, one or two straps under and over the bottom of the frame can hold the wooden pieces securely.
John
I was asked recently two questions about the workstand that I was less than prepared to answer. The first was how much the workstand weighs. The second question was how small a package can the workstand be reduced to when not in use. I thought I posted something earlier in this thread, but I can't find it, so others probably can't either.
About sixteen(16) pounds is the weight of the complete stand. Of that total, the metal swing frame is about seven(7) pounds, the base is about eight(8) pounds and the baseboard and fastening hardware are about one(1) pound. The stand is about half the weight of a typical machine you might put in it.
On the second issue, minimum size for storage, I completely disassembled the stand and arranged it into its most compact size. As can be seen in the photo, everything fits nicely into the volume of the metal swing frame. Miscellaneous hardware, displayed below, can be bagged and labeled and included in the package.
(WorkStand - Packed Up)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]540859[/ATTACH]
The overall dimensions of the reduced package are 22 inches long by 9 inches deep and 12 inches high. This is the same as the swing frame itself with everything inside. For long-term storage or for shipping should it ever be desired, one or two straps under and over the bottom of the frame can hold the wooden pieces securely.
John
01-23-2016, 08:24 AM
#102
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dalton, GA
Posts: 31
John,
I have a question about the two support arms. Why are they so tall. I would gust about bet you have never used a pivot point more than 7" up. If these had counter weights I could understand them being that tall but at present they just look to me as if they could be in the way of accessing some points on a machine. I'm not trying to find fault, just a way to maybe make the stand better.
David
I have a question about the two support arms. Why are they so tall. I would gust about bet you have never used a pivot point more than 7" up. If these had counter weights I could understand them being that tall but at present they just look to me as if they could be in the way of accessing some points on a machine. I'm not trying to find fault, just a way to maybe make the stand better.
David
01-23-2016, 06:40 PM
#103
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
Phil,
I placed the uprights in the center of the frame to best match the front to back center of gravity. It keeps it as balanced as possible when tipped 90 degrees forward or back. While some of the newer machines, such as the Singer Touch & Sew series for example, have the pillar favoring the back of the bed, most of the old machines have the pillar centered. This seemed the best position for the most machines to have the best center of gravity.
David,
There are two main reasons for the length of the uprights on the swing frame.
First, it offers a good method of holding the frame when placing it into or removing it from the base. If held below the pivot shafts, one might get hands caught up and maybe pinched between the pivot shafts of the frame and the base. Held like ski poles, it allows easy gripping of the frame, with fingers safely out of the way.
Secondly, when the frame is in the base, the tall uprights allow easy turning of the machine. In particular, it allows easy turning of the machine 90 degrees backward, with spool pins pointing toward you, by simply pulling forward on one of the metal uprights. They serve as good handles for control. I'd definitely miss them if they weren't there.
It's funny that you mention weights. I didn't intend to post anything until further along, but I have been working with experimental weights to fine tune the balance. The uprights are the best place to put them.
I appreciate all comments on the workstand. Thank you both for your inquiries into the reasoning for its design.
John
I placed the uprights in the center of the frame to best match the front to back center of gravity. It keeps it as balanced as possible when tipped 90 degrees forward or back. While some of the newer machines, such as the Singer Touch & Sew series for example, have the pillar favoring the back of the bed, most of the old machines have the pillar centered. This seemed the best position for the most machines to have the best center of gravity.
David,
There are two main reasons for the length of the uprights on the swing frame.
First, it offers a good method of holding the frame when placing it into or removing it from the base. If held below the pivot shafts, one might get hands caught up and maybe pinched between the pivot shafts of the frame and the base. Held like ski poles, it allows easy gripping of the frame, with fingers safely out of the way.
Secondly, when the frame is in the base, the tall uprights allow easy turning of the machine. In particular, it allows easy turning of the machine 90 degrees backward, with spool pins pointing toward you, by simply pulling forward on one of the metal uprights. They serve as good handles for control. I'd definitely miss them if they weren't there.
It's funny that you mention weights. I didn't intend to post anything until further along, but I have been working with experimental weights to fine tune the balance. The uprights are the best place to put them.
I appreciate all comments on the workstand. Thank you both for your inquiries into the reasoning for its design.
John
01-23-2016, 08:37 PM
#105
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dalton, GA
Posts: 31
John,
Using the arms for placing counter weight should make it turn better. I've been thinking about using a frame somewhat like the you have with a round pipe out one end and a mount somewhat like an engine stand. I do like the idea you can stand the machine head upright and turn it around. I haven't figured out exactly how I could do that with my idea without making two base mounts. At this point I haven't got into collecting bad enough to really need a stand, but building one would sure make it simpler to fix the 3 I've collected so far.
David
Using the arms for placing counter weight should make it turn better. I've been thinking about using a frame somewhat like the you have with a round pipe out one end and a mount somewhat like an engine stand. I do like the idea you can stand the machine head upright and turn it around. I haven't figured out exactly how I could do that with my idea without making two base mounts. At this point I haven't got into collecting bad enough to really need a stand, but building one would sure make it simpler to fix the 3 I've collected so far.
David
01-24-2016, 06:19 AM
#107
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 88
Originally Posted by Cari-in-Oly
3? Haha, that's barely a start. I have that many stashed at my BFFs house, lol. We'll see how many you have a year from now.
Cari
Cari
01-24-2016, 08:58 AM
#108
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Dalton, GA
Posts: 31
I must be a slow starter. I have my Bernina 1120 I sew with most of the time. I just bought a Singer 31-15 with industrial table that I'm working on to make a shop machine for heavier sewing. At present I'm not trying to make it a looker, just a very good work machine. Then lastly I have a Singer 15-80 that I'm wanting to restore as a nice looking backup sewer. I'm sure there will be more in the future, but they will most likely have to have a home in mind before I start them. My first real hobby is my small machine shop.
David
David
02-19-2016, 05:43 AM
#109
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
ASSEMBLING THE WORKSTAND
I recently had the workstand disassembled and since this doesn't happen very often, I thought I'd post pictures of its re-assembly. A few people have had questions about disassembly and reassembly. I think this will help.
The process is started by positioning the center cross member of the base, along with one foot piece and one vertical support arm, as shown in the picture below.
The center cross-member is labeled to distinguish front from back.
The foot pieces have been labeled on their underside "LF" (for left front) and "RF" for right front. The support arms can be distinguished from one another by the hole for the lock pin, present in the left support arm only. Left inside and right inside are labeled, since both arms are symmetrically shaped.
(Support Base Right Side)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543003[/ATTACH]
The two lag screws hold the three pieces together. Insert the lag screws, first through the vertical support arm, then through the foot piece, finally aligning them into the threaded holes in the end of the cross member, as shown.
(Lag Bolts Inserted)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543004[/ATTACH]
A socket wrench works well, since the heads of the lag screws are recessed. Screw the lags in almost all the way, but not tight yet.
A space underneath the cross member is normal. This helps to avoid high-centering ir rocking of the stand on surfaces that mey not be perfectly flat.
(Lag Screws Not Tight)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543005[/ATTACH]
Using a square of some kind, check that the support arm is square (90 degrees) BOTH front-to-back as well as in and out. The inward or outward tilt of the vertical support arm may be found to be out of square, as shown below.
(Support Arm Not Square)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543006[/ATTACH]
By adjusting the tightness of the lag screws, the arm may be tilted in or out. This is described and illustrated earlier in this thread, in the section about the makng of the workstand base. The illustrations are the fourth and fifth pictures in the post. A link to the post is here.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7234164
Using a square, adjust the position of the arms. Loosen one screw and tighten the other to tip the arm inward. Do the opposite to tip the arm outward. When in the correct position, tighten the screws, alternating a little at a time, until tight. Only tight enough to hold securely. Over-tightening will harm the threads.
This adjustment is intended to make the vertical supports the correct distance apart at the top, to accept the swing frame pivots.
(Support Arm Square)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543007[/ATTACH]
Repeat the same steps for the other end of the support base. When the other end has been completed, the base is fully assembled.
(continued in following post)
I recently had the workstand disassembled and since this doesn't happen very often, I thought I'd post pictures of its re-assembly. A few people have had questions about disassembly and reassembly. I think this will help.
The process is started by positioning the center cross member of the base, along with one foot piece and one vertical support arm, as shown in the picture below.
The center cross-member is labeled to distinguish front from back.
The foot pieces have been labeled on their underside "LF" (for left front) and "RF" for right front. The support arms can be distinguished from one another by the hole for the lock pin, present in the left support arm only. Left inside and right inside are labeled, since both arms are symmetrically shaped.
(Support Base Right Side)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543003[/ATTACH]
The two lag screws hold the three pieces together. Insert the lag screws, first through the vertical support arm, then through the foot piece, finally aligning them into the threaded holes in the end of the cross member, as shown.
(Lag Bolts Inserted)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543004[/ATTACH]
******************************
TIP: There is a trick for getting screw threads started properly. Push the screw gently into the hole with the receiving threads. Using gentle pressure on the screw, slowly rotate the screw in the reverse direction (CCW). Within about one turn, you should feel the screw drop down one thread. As soon as the screw drops down to the next thread, it is positioned perfectly to follow the existing threads without damage from cross-threading. Then proceed to turn the screw normally (CW). This will work for any threaded fastener.******************************
A socket wrench works well, since the heads of the lag screws are recessed. Screw the lags in almost all the way, but not tight yet.
A space underneath the cross member is normal. This helps to avoid high-centering ir rocking of the stand on surfaces that mey not be perfectly flat.
(Lag Screws Not Tight)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543005[/ATTACH]
Using a square of some kind, check that the support arm is square (90 degrees) BOTH front-to-back as well as in and out. The inward or outward tilt of the vertical support arm may be found to be out of square, as shown below.
(Support Arm Not Square)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543006[/ATTACH]
By adjusting the tightness of the lag screws, the arm may be tilted in or out. This is described and illustrated earlier in this thread, in the section about the makng of the workstand base. The illustrations are the fourth and fifth pictures in the post. A link to the post is here.
http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7234164
Using a square, adjust the position of the arms. Loosen one screw and tighten the other to tip the arm inward. Do the opposite to tip the arm outward. When in the correct position, tighten the screws, alternating a little at a time, until tight. Only tight enough to hold securely. Over-tightening will harm the threads.
This adjustment is intended to make the vertical supports the correct distance apart at the top, to accept the swing frame pivots.
(Support Arm Square)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543007[/ATTACH]
Repeat the same steps for the other end of the support base. When the other end has been completed, the base is fully assembled.
(continued in following post)
02-19-2016, 06:06 AM
#110
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 4,258
ASSEMBLING PIVOT SHAFTS
The swing frame pivot shafts are easy to assemble. A picture of the parts involved is shown below.
(Pivot Shaft Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543012[/ATTACH]
Begin by inserting the bolt and washer. Three inches up from the top edge of the frame is a good place to pivot most machines. This will vary though.
NOTE: This operation should be mastered as a matter of routine. Moving the pivot shafts between holes is how the frame is balanced. It is an adjustment. Fortunately most machines balance very well using the 3" position.
(Pivot Shaft Bolt)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543013[/ATTACH]
Next, slip on the lock disc. It should fit snugly over the square upright.
(Pivot Shaft Lock Disc)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543014[/ATTACH]
Add the washers, which are used as spacers.
(Pivot Shaft Washers)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543015[/ATTACH]
Slip the pipe over the end of the bolt.
(Pivot Shaft Pipe)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543016[/ATTACH]
Lastly, screw the nut onto the end of the bolt.
(Pivot Shaft Nut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543017[/ATTACH]
Using two wrenches, tighten the nut while holding the head of the bolt still.
(Pivot Shaft Tightening)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543018[/ATTACH]
Repeat the same steps for the opposite end. The wooden disc opposite the lock disc is plain, with no holes. Except for this, assembly is symmetrical and the same.
ALL TOGETHER
After the above assembly steps, the swing frame should fit into the support base and be ready for a baseboard and a sewing machine to be worked on.
In addition to taking these assembly pictures, I wanted to get the workstand back together ASAP because... well, we got a sewing machine. I need to test it with the Singer universal baseboard. I'm thinking it will fit fine. I'll post what I find and show pictures of the new machine.
More soon,
John
The swing frame pivot shafts are easy to assemble. A picture of the parts involved is shown below.
(Pivot Shaft Parts)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543012[/ATTACH]
Begin by inserting the bolt and washer. Three inches up from the top edge of the frame is a good place to pivot most machines. This will vary though.
NOTE: This operation should be mastered as a matter of routine. Moving the pivot shafts between holes is how the frame is balanced. It is an adjustment. Fortunately most machines balance very well using the 3" position.
(Pivot Shaft Bolt)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543013[/ATTACH]
Next, slip on the lock disc. It should fit snugly over the square upright.
(Pivot Shaft Lock Disc)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543014[/ATTACH]
Add the washers, which are used as spacers.
(Pivot Shaft Washers)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543015[/ATTACH]
Slip the pipe over the end of the bolt.
(Pivot Shaft Pipe)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543016[/ATTACH]
Lastly, screw the nut onto the end of the bolt.
(Pivot Shaft Nut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543017[/ATTACH]
Using two wrenches, tighten the nut while holding the head of the bolt still.
(Pivot Shaft Tightening)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]543018[/ATTACH]
Repeat the same steps for the opposite end. The wooden disc opposite the lock disc is plain, with no holes. Except for this, assembly is symmetrical and the same.
ALL TOGETHER
After the above assembly steps, the swing frame should fit into the support base and be ready for a baseboard and a sewing machine to be worked on.
In addition to taking these assembly pictures, I wanted to get the workstand back together ASAP because... well, we got a sewing machine. I need to test it with the Singer universal baseboard. I'm thinking it will fit fine. I'll post what I find and show pictures of the new machine.
More soon,
John
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