Sewing Machine Work Stand
04-11-2016, 04:35 AM
#123
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,773
It didn't go as quickly as I had expected but the welding jig is now complete. A picture of it, holding the metal pieces to be welded, may be seen below.
(Finished Welding Jig)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547565[/ATTACH]
The jig has guides to hold the two longest pieces of angle iron. The short end pieces are held in place with slight pressure to assure the frame is square.
Four adjusting nuts, one on each corner of the upright supports, allows adjustment for the upright perforated tubing to be perpendicular, in two directions. Each corner has a compression spring under it and the assembly can be tilted depending on how the corner nuts are tightened.
(Welding Jig Right)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547566[/ATTACH]
I used some small springs, with tiny screw eyes, to provide pressure on the end pieces to keep them square. They provide the right amount of pressure and are safe out of the way inside the hole. A last minute wooden strap holds the center slider on each end from coming out.
(Welding Jig Right Closer)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547567[/ATTACH]
As the final assembly of the jig progressed, I needed the metal parts which would go into the jig to build the jig around. To cut the pieces, I used what is called a cutoff saw. It has an abrasive wheel that is used to cut the metal. It makes lots of sparks.
(Cutting 45 Degree Miter)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547568[/ATTACH]
The pieces were cut and the ends of the uprights were shaped using a hand tool with a smaller abrasive wheel to sculpt the necessary edge to fit the angle iron.
(Metal Pieces Cut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547569[/ATTACH]
The trickiest part of the jig was the need for the upright support arms to slide between two parallel pieces of wood. This allows the arms to retract after the frame is tack welded, allowing easy removal of the now solid frame.
A sandwich of clamps is shown below, as the upright stabilizer for one side was glued and screwed together. The two outside pieces are glued and screwed to a small bottom board. The center piece is not glued. It has to slide. As shown, the center stabilizer arm has one piece of typing paper for spacing and one layer of Saran Wrap wrapped around it to keep the glue off of it. Sort of awkward.
(Clamping 1)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547570[/ATTACH]
With the jig finished, I'll be meeting with the welder this week. I'm anxious to get the new experimental frame done so I can test it out.
John
(Finished Welding Jig)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547565[/ATTACH]
The jig has guides to hold the two longest pieces of angle iron. The short end pieces are held in place with slight pressure to assure the frame is square.
Four adjusting nuts, one on each corner of the upright supports, allows adjustment for the upright perforated tubing to be perpendicular, in two directions. Each corner has a compression spring under it and the assembly can be tilted depending on how the corner nuts are tightened.
(Welding Jig Right)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547566[/ATTACH]
I used some small springs, with tiny screw eyes, to provide pressure on the end pieces to keep them square. They provide the right amount of pressure and are safe out of the way inside the hole. A last minute wooden strap holds the center slider on each end from coming out.
(Welding Jig Right Closer)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547567[/ATTACH]
As the final assembly of the jig progressed, I needed the metal parts which would go into the jig to build the jig around. To cut the pieces, I used what is called a cutoff saw. It has an abrasive wheel that is used to cut the metal. It makes lots of sparks.
(Cutting 45 Degree Miter)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547568[/ATTACH]
The pieces were cut and the ends of the uprights were shaped using a hand tool with a smaller abrasive wheel to sculpt the necessary edge to fit the angle iron.
(Metal Pieces Cut)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547569[/ATTACH]
The trickiest part of the jig was the need for the upright support arms to slide between two parallel pieces of wood. This allows the arms to retract after the frame is tack welded, allowing easy removal of the now solid frame.
A sandwich of clamps is shown below, as the upright stabilizer for one side was glued and screwed together. The two outside pieces are glued and screwed to a small bottom board. The center piece is not glued. It has to slide. As shown, the center stabilizer arm has one piece of typing paper for spacing and one layer of Saran Wrap wrapped around it to keep the glue off of it. Sort of awkward.
(Clamping 1)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547570[/ATTACH]
With the jig finished, I'll be meeting with the welder this week. I'm anxious to get the new experimental frame done so I can test it out.
John
04-11-2016, 08:33 PM
#125
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Alameda CA
Posts: 531
I just read this thread tonight. I found the Quilting Board & in the last 6 weeks I've acquired a 401 & 66-18. Your stand and projects would be impossible for me to build, yet the pictures are so clear and helpful it almost seems as if I could.
You gave me good advice on another thread. My father was a brilliant tool & die engineer of the old opinion that such things weren't suitable for me to learn because I'm "a girl." Your posts remind me of his works which were so measured and precise. When he required a wheelchair he designed & had made parts to retrofit and customize it until it was exactly as he wanted it. I have a box of his design templates which I've used for art, and now to cut fabric. Sincerest hanks for all your sharing: it was memory lane and process fascination and wishful thinking all rolled into one.
I will go on propping my machines on a stack of fabric - and checking back to see if you ever sell these stands!
You gave me good advice on another thread. My father was a brilliant tool & die engineer of the old opinion that such things weren't suitable for me to learn because I'm "a girl." Your posts remind me of his works which were so measured and precise. When he required a wheelchair he designed & had made parts to retrofit and customize it until it was exactly as he wanted it. I have a box of his design templates which I've used for art, and now to cut fabric. Sincerest hanks for all your sharing: it was memory lane and process fascination and wishful thinking all rolled into one.
I will go on propping my machines on a stack of fabric - and checking back to see if you ever sell these stands!
04-17-2016, 04:57 AM
#127
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 3,773
A Redwood Workstand Base
While the swing frame is in process, it gives me a chance to finally build the redwood base I've mentioned before. A beautiful week of weather allowed me to get it to the state you see in the picture below. It still needs a final sanding, but serves to show the look of a base in natural wood. If left unfinished, redwood takes on a sort of rustic patina. With a clear coat of some kind, such as Deft or varnish, the natural grain and color would be further accentuated.
(Redwood Base)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547960[/ATTACH]
The base is held together by two lag bolts on either end. They are recessed below the surface, as shown, away from hands when the stand is picked up or carried..
(Recessed Bolt Heads)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547961[/ATTACH]
The support arms on either end are adjustable due to the slightly pointed end of the cross member. As seen below, tightening or loosening the bolts will cause each arm to rock inward or outward. The arms are adjusted to be perfectly vertical, to properly accept the swing frame. There s a more detailed diagram of this, the fourth picture down, in a previous post on this thread, at http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7234164
(Arm Adjustment)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547962[/ATTACH]
I made the center support circle out of the same birch plywood I used for the base of the welding jig in the last post. I had a little left over and it works nicely.
(Center Circle)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547963[/ATTACH]
Sooo... after a little sanding, I'll need to decide what kind of finish to apply. I could even paint it, either the gray like the first workstand base, or some other decorative color. I'd welcome any thoughts that all of you might have.
In any case, when I get the experimental welded metal swing frame back, I'll have a base to put it in.
More soon,
John
While the swing frame is in process, it gives me a chance to finally build the redwood base I've mentioned before. A beautiful week of weather allowed me to get it to the state you see in the picture below. It still needs a final sanding, but serves to show the look of a base in natural wood. If left unfinished, redwood takes on a sort of rustic patina. With a clear coat of some kind, such as Deft or varnish, the natural grain and color would be further accentuated.
(Redwood Base)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547960[/ATTACH]
The base is held together by two lag bolts on either end. They are recessed below the surface, as shown, away from hands when the stand is picked up or carried..
(Recessed Bolt Heads)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547961[/ATTACH]
The support arms on either end are adjustable due to the slightly pointed end of the cross member. As seen below, tightening or loosening the bolts will cause each arm to rock inward or outward. The arms are adjusted to be perfectly vertical, to properly accept the swing frame. There s a more detailed diagram of this, the fourth picture down, in a previous post on this thread, at http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post7234164
(Arm Adjustment)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547962[/ATTACH]
I made the center support circle out of the same birch plywood I used for the base of the welding jig in the last post. I had a little left over and it works nicely.
(Center Circle)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]547963[/ATTACH]
Sooo... after a little sanding, I'll need to decide what kind of finish to apply. I could even paint it, either the gray like the first workstand base, or some other decorative color. I'd welcome any thoughts that all of you might have.
In any case, when I get the experimental welded metal swing frame back, I'll have a base to put it in.
More soon,
John
04-20-2016, 01:16 AM
#130
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Alameda CA
Posts: 531
Love the redwood base - I live in the redwood state, in a redwood house. And a clear satin finish is best IMO. When we stripped a couple of our interior doors we found out they were solid redwood, 1890s style. So beautiful.
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