SteveH

Sorry for the delay. I love this concept. Definitely needed.

What I wanted to consider is the issue of having to lift the whole thing to switch from horizontal to vertical mode. With some folks here that is a real concern. I think that with a small amount of redesign it could be made to hinge to the vertical position rather than have to be removed and reset.

I have not been able to come up with a solution that is as elegant as your base design yet, but I will ponder it over the weekend.

Excellent concept, great execution, and awesome that you are sharing it!!!

OurWorkbench

I certainly am appreciative of the comments you all are leaving about the work stand. You are very supportive and encouraging. And thought provoking.

I guess that the need I've filled here, may exist more widely. I'd like to see others benefit from this idea, somehow. If others are interested in having this, we'll find some way for that to happen. Don' go 'way.

There was one question about the height. The measurement from the bottom of the base (dark gray) to the tips of the frame uprights (white) is 22 inches. The maximum width is at the tips of the pivot shafts, and is 30 inches. The way I've built this, it really needs a table, counter or bench under it.

One problem with a homebrew project is that one doesn't have a manual with all of the names of parts. I'm posting a picture of the stand with parts labeled. I realize that some of the parts I don't even have names for yet. I'll standardize on these terms and if anyone wants to converse, at least we can be using common terms. I think the parts identification should be a nice printable size for 8-1/2" x 11" if you want to print it out.

(Stand - Parts Identification)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]519167[/ATTACH]

DresiArnaz

That is simply brilliant!

KenZ

This machine work stand has my mind working overtime. Myfirst recommendation has already been made and that is you should apply for a patent.The market for this stand may not be restricted to sewing machines only. I feelthat a special base board could adapt this stand to mechanical clocks. Thiswould not require any changes to the basic design and add mechanical clocks tothe prospective market. I will work on ideas for a board clock adapter baseboardif you are interested.

greywuuf

if you were to ... shoot there is a name for it inlet the upright boards so that they were flush with the legs ( you know cut half way through each piece and interlock them ) and then round the bottom corners..... you could put a retainer strap over the pivot rods and then just grab the upright and roll it up on its nose....saves from having to lift it each time... I know that was mentioned as a possible improvement.

OurWorkbench

KenZ – I’m pleased with your ideas and thoughts about the stand.

Any other applications, such as for the mechanical clock, would interest me very much to see. I’m wondering how much one of those clocks weighs and where its vertical center of gravity is.

As for patenting, I don’t know. I know they changed the law recently so that whoever files first, gets the patent. I guess I just risk some big company, like Singer, from taking this idea and doing a much better job with big bucks. But this involves nothing that hasn’t been known for well before Singer. Just simple physics and the balancing of things. You could say that Singer was into balancing all kinds of things. I also can’t imagine that the people at Singer never noticed that their sewing machines were a little top heavy.

Companies have had a long time to do this if they were going to. If one of them did, I’d get a kick out seeing it anyway. This is just a good idea that I’m glad to share. If it can be as useful to others, I’d like that.

I find myself wondering if this might be a good QB group project for several of those who are interested. As a newcomer, I’d defer to other peoples thoughts on that.

OurWorkbench

SteveH –

I appreciate your comments about the work stand. I think you were the first to respond, so thank you.

The frame of the stand is easier to pick up than one might think. The swing frame doesn’t weigh a great deal. I actually find it easier to lift and turn a machine in the frame, than I do lifting a machine onto a bench or table by itself. Part of the reason is the frame uprights make very good handles, grabbing them like a couple of ski poles.. Another might be that the frame tends to hide the top-heaviness of the machine. It’s a bit less cumbersome in the frame.

I thought through several versions of this stand, thinking of using not only two axes, but even three. If you have the need and budget for a two axis device, let me offer the simplest approach that I was able to come up with for a two axis design.

Description:
A large metal ring, similar to a hula-hoop, is held vertically by a captive foot or base, containing deep groove rollers that would prevent the ring from leaning forward or back. It would need at least three of these rollers, spanning probably 90 to 120 degrees of the circle. The rollers would keep it vertical at all times, while allowing it to turn.

Retaining collars 2 or 3 inches long are welded to the inside of the circle, diametrically opposed. These collars, extending toward the center, would open or close to secure the pivot shafts. The swing frame, with little change, would span the inside of the circular ring. Turning a machine in the second axis would be like using a big steering wheel.

(Quick diagram - 2 axis design)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519297[/ATTACH]


What do you think?

Rodney

Your existing stand where you simply lift the machine and put the pivot in the bottom hole is the simplest way to achieve having the machine on end. I don't think it needs to be in that position often anyway.

If you want all positions without taking the machine off the stand I would do it like this:
You can build the stand out of wood too. Use plywood for the rings.
I draw terribly. Keep the outer part of your existing stand the same. Instead of the large outer ring use a smaller flat ring as the sewing machine base. Add 2 wide pads (or another ring to rest the base ring on) with clamps at the bottom of your verticals. In the horizontal position in your drawing above you would be able to spin the machine so the ends face you and you can tilt the machine on either end by rotating the ring.

Or like this:
If you have access to metal working tools you can make your base like an engine stand too. For reference:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...q=engine+stand
That would give you easy access to 3 sides and the top and bottom. The metal mounting bracket and pivot would have to be heavier so it doesn't flex. If you hinge the main upright you can turn the machine vertically too. You would need either a wider base, a counterweight, or need to bolt it down for stability though.

The big thing is the idea. Your idea to build a work stand is brilliant. There's a lot of ways to build it once you have the idea.
Rodney

ThayerRags

The 1951 Brewer Sewing Supplies Company catalog had three versions of sewing machine “Repair Jacks” listed for holding sewing machines to work on them. The “Wedge Lock” #1205 ($25.90), the “Roemer” #1206 ($15.00), and the “Boco” #1207 ($25.90). The Boco was “The Sewing Machine Vise Combining All Important Features Required by the Mechanics”.

I wish Brewer still carried them.....

The photo is mine, but the catalog contents are copyright 1951 by Brewer Sewing Supplies Company.

CD in Oklahoma

jlhmnj

CD,

I have a c. 1910 Excelsior Supply Catalog with the "Roemer" for $5. The pictures look similar to the ones in the Brewer catalog except it is holding what appears to be a Wheeler and Wilson D9. Guess they must have sold a few for it to be available over an at least 40 year period of time.

Jon