Dear Jane E12, G9, H5, BR11 Paper Piecing
01-10-2010, 12:26 AM
#21
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 3,037
Originally Posted by kluedesigns
the only one to watch out for is E12 and those 4 little units in the center.
if you look i'm off on the bottom left point.
i re-stitched it 3 times (which is my cut off) and then said i'll come back to it on the "off" week if it still bothers me.
if you look i'm off on the bottom left point.
i re-stitched it 3 times (which is my cut off) and then said i'll come back to it on the "off" week if it still bothers me.
The first one I did 3X, then did another 2x and then I took your advice and moved on. I have not had a problem PP previously with things lining up. That is the beauty of PP. Could it be because of the bulk and tiny piecing? I hope it's not the Tramadol I have to take to be able to sit and sew! If that's the case I'm in big doodoo!
I just finished BR11 to complete week 3. Not perfect but not bad. Moving on.
It's 2:30 AM. Time to count sheep!
01-10-2010, 10:04 AM
#22
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Sleepy Hollow, NY
Posts: 4,727
Originally Posted by Sheree from Chicago
Originally Posted by kluedesigns
the only one to watch out for is E12 and those 4 little units in the center.
if you look i'm off on the bottom left point.
i re-stitched it 3 times (which is my cut off) and then said i'll come back to it on the "off" week if it still bothers me.
if you look i'm off on the bottom left point.
i re-stitched it 3 times (which is my cut off) and then said i'll come back to it on the "off" week if it still bothers me.
The first one I did 3X, then did another 2x and then I took your advice and moved on. I have not had a problem PP previously with things lining up. That is the beauty of PP. Could it be because of the bulk and tiny piecing? I hope it's not the Tramadol I have to take to be able to sit and sew! If that's the case I'm in big doodoo!
I just finished BR11 to complete week 3. Not perfect but not bad. Moving on.
It's 2:30 AM. Time to count sheep!
if i were making this jane quilt to hang on a wall i'd be using 1/8 seams instead of 1/4 to reduce bulk and thereby ease of piecing and quilting.
the miniature jane i'm making is all 1/8 seams since its never going to be used as a utility quilt.
01-10-2010, 12:10 PM
#23
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 3,037
Originally Posted by kluedesigns
Originally Posted by Sheree from Chicago
Originally Posted by kluedesigns
the only one to watch out for is E12 and those 4 little units in the center.
if you look i'm off on the bottom left point.
i re-stitched it 3 times (which is my cut off) and then said i'll come back to it on the "off" week if it still bothers me.
if you look i'm off on the bottom left point.
i re-stitched it 3 times (which is my cut off) and then said i'll come back to it on the "off" week if it still bothers me.
The first one I did 3X, then did another 2x and then I took your advice and moved on. I have not had a problem PP previously with things lining up. That is the beauty of PP. Could it be because of the bulk and tiny piecing? I hope it's not the Tramadol I have to take to be able to sit and sew! If that's the case I'm in big doodoo!
I just finished BR11 to complete week 3. Not perfect but not bad. Moving on.
It's 2:30 AM. Time to count sheep!
if i were making this jane quilt to hang on a wall i'd be using 1/8 seams instead of 1/4 to reduce bulk and thereby ease of piecing and quilting.
the miniature jane i'm making is all 1/8 seams since its never going to be used as a utility quilt.
01-10-2010, 12:19 PM
#25
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Gone
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This might be horribly wrong, but when I've hit a bulky seam that won't open properly (usually because I haven't trimmed it well and there's more fabric than it's supposed to have) I put a little bit of spray starch into a shot glass and use a paintbrush to wet the seam from the wrong side. Then I drop the iron onto it and press (usual story, DON'T wriggle it around, just press down). The moisture relaxes the seam and lets it open, then the starch sets it so it can't shift back up when it dries.
01-10-2010, 12:44 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by BlueChicken
This might be horribly wrong, but when I've hit a bulky seam that won't open properly (usually because I haven't trimmed it well and there's more fabric than it's supposed to have) I put a little bit of spray starch into a shot glass and use a paintbrush to wet the seam from the wrong side. Then I drop the iron onto it and press (usual story, DON'T wriggle it around, just press down). The moisture relaxes the seam and lets it open, then the starch sets it so it can't shift back up when it dries.
01-10-2010, 01:06 PM
#27
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The biggest problem I can think of is distortion, but as long as you don't wiggle the iron around that takes care of that. And the fabric I'm using doesn't go shiny if I iron it too long, so no problems there either.
I'm pressing the vast majority of my seams open and it does make for nice flat blocks, especially when they're being stored and seem to "lift" after a length of time.
I'm pressing the vast majority of my seams open and it does make for nice flat blocks, especially when they're being stored and seem to "lift" after a length of time.
01-10-2010, 01:06 PM
#28
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Gone
Posts: 2,383
Originally Posted by kluedesigns
Originally Posted by BlueChicken
This might be horribly wrong, but when I've hit a bulky seam that won't open properly (usually because I haven't trimmed it well and there's more fabric than it's supposed to have) I put a little bit of spray starch into a shot glass and use a paintbrush to wet the seam from the wrong side. Then I drop the iron onto it and press (usual story, DON'T wriggle it around, just press down). The moisture relaxes the seam and lets it open, then the starch sets it so it can't shift back up when it dries.
01-10-2010, 05:51 PM
#29
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 3,037
Originally Posted by BlueChicken
This might be horribly wrong, but when I've hit a bulky seam that won't open properly (usually because I haven't trimmed it well and there's more fabric than it's supposed to have) I put a little bit of spray starch into a shot glass and use a paintbrush to wet the seam from the wrong side. Then I drop the iron onto it and press (usual story, DON'T wriggle it around, just press down). The moisture relaxes the seam and lets it open, then the starch sets it so it can't shift back up when it dries.
01-10-2010, 05:57 PM
#30
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Salem Iowa
Posts: 15,666
I always iron my seams open.When you are working on minis the raised edge you get from pressing to the dark is so much more noticable in minis. The open seam works so much better for me. Some seams will tend to fold over but I get the majority to lay flat. I spray with sizing and iron if it doesn't. I iron the dickens out of mine. I don't press I iron it within an inch of it's life because I want it flat! I never seem to have a distortion problem at least not one I have noticed.
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