Coats threads
03-17-2011, 09:12 AM
#112
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 155
Originally Posted by libber
I switched to higher quality, Coats has 'dumbed-down' their quality so they can compete at Wal-Mart.
03-17-2011, 10:20 AM
#113
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 291
When the spool jumps it's usually because one end of the spool has a little slit in the edge to put the thread into when not sewing to keep it from unravelling. Look to make sure you have the slit away from where the thread comes off, put it on the bottom of the spindle or away from where the thread is coming off from. The thread gets caught on that slit and causes problems Hope you understand this.
Good Luck
Suzy
Good Luck
Suzy
03-17-2011, 01:26 PM
#114
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 155
Originally Posted by cpfrog
I've used Coats and Clark for years as well. For many years, it was all one could buy!
I use the cotton covered poly for regular sewing; the craft and machine type for my machine quilting; and the 100% cotton for hand quilting. There are also diff. thicknesses for top stitching and for buttons. You have to read the label !! Of course now JoAnn's only sells the 100% poly...it's okay too.
There is only one color that I had problems with... and it's the perfect blending color called FAWN - a dull purple-ish, gray-ish, beige-ish...Anyway... it always
frayed esp. when hand sewing my appliques. DARN!!! I loved that color!!!!
I use the cotton covered poly for regular sewing; the craft and machine type for my machine quilting; and the 100% cotton for hand quilting. There are also diff. thicknesses for top stitching and for buttons. You have to read the label !! Of course now JoAnn's only sells the 100% poly...it's okay too.
There is only one color that I had problems with... and it's the perfect blending color called FAWN - a dull purple-ish, gray-ish, beige-ish...Anyway... it always
frayed esp. when hand sewing my appliques. DARN!!! I loved that color!!!!
Try Silk Thread for applique, number 242 -#100 is a taupe and blends with all colors. It is very strong. Just be sure to tie a knot after you thread your needle, this will keep the thread from coming out of the needle.
03-17-2011, 01:27 PM
#115
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 155
Originally Posted by OzarksGma
Originally Posted by cpfrog
I've used Coats and Clark for years as well. For many years, it was all one could buy!
I use the cotton covered poly for regular sewing; the craft and machine type for my machine quilting; and the 100% cotton for hand quilting. There are also diff. thicknesses for top stitching and for buttons. You have to read the label !! Of course now JoAnn's only sells the 100% poly...it's okay too.
There is only one color that I had problems with... and it's the perfect blending color called FAWN - a dull purple-ish, gray-ish, beige-ish...Anyway... it always
frayed esp. when hand sewing my appliques. DARN!!! I loved that color!!!!
I use the cotton covered poly for regular sewing; the craft and machine type for my machine quilting; and the 100% cotton for hand quilting. There are also diff. thicknesses for top stitching and for buttons. You have to read the label !! Of course now JoAnn's only sells the 100% poly...it's okay too.
There is only one color that I had problems with... and it's the perfect blending color called FAWN - a dull purple-ish, gray-ish, beige-ish...Anyway... it always
frayed esp. when hand sewing my appliques. DARN!!! I loved that color!!!!
Try Silk Thread for applique, number 242 -#100 is a taupe and blends with all colors. It is very strong. Just be sure to tie a knot after you thread your needle, this will keep the thread from coming out of the needle.
03-17-2011, 01:32 PM
#116
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: North Carolina - But otherwise, NOTW
Posts: 7,940
Originally Posted by Lisa_wanna_b_quilter
Coats and Clark is fine for me. Of course, none of my quilts will ever be heirloom blue ribbon quilts. Try it out on a small project and see what you think. Everyone has different ideas.
03-17-2011, 02:22 PM
#117
Super Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Nebraska..The Good Life
Posts: 2,102
My mom used to always say "don't buy that cheap thread, buy good quality C&C" and it was more expensive than other brands way back when. Well about 10 years ago I bought a huge box of threads at a garage sale and it was a mix of the 'expensive' C&C and the 'cheap' threads as my mother called them. Today, I'm still using all of those threads in every machine that I have including my LA. I have had NO PROBLEMS!
C&C are not all the same. If you look at each spool you will see them marked T2, T4, T6 etc. Each is a different weight of thread, the store should have a little chart to tell you how it relates in thickness to other brands. I find that many people do not understand the sizing on the needles that they purchase and are often using thread that is too thick for their particular needle (and often fabric) which is for sure going to cause shredding and lint. I also find that the lint factor is more of an issue of what kind of fabric you are sewing (fabrics are not all the same either). As long as you match your needles, threads and fabrics to the proper size I find that most any thread will act as it is intended. I think with all of the expensive threads that are available today it's pretty much like my mom saying "don't buy that cheap thread". C&C works just fine as long as I match my fabric and thread to the proper needle. The other thing that I find a lot is that people just don't change their needles often enough. That causes further stress on the thread as it is being dragged through the fabric rather than being inserted. If you can HEAR your needle going through the fabric, it's too dull in most cases. JMHO.
C&C are not all the same. If you look at each spool you will see them marked T2, T4, T6 etc. Each is a different weight of thread, the store should have a little chart to tell you how it relates in thickness to other brands. I find that many people do not understand the sizing on the needles that they purchase and are often using thread that is too thick for their particular needle (and often fabric) which is for sure going to cause shredding and lint. I also find that the lint factor is more of an issue of what kind of fabric you are sewing (fabrics are not all the same either). As long as you match your needles, threads and fabrics to the proper size I find that most any thread will act as it is intended. I think with all of the expensive threads that are available today it's pretty much like my mom saying "don't buy that cheap thread". C&C works just fine as long as I match my fabric and thread to the proper needle. The other thing that I find a lot is that people just don't change their needles often enough. That causes further stress on the thread as it is being dragged through the fabric rather than being inserted. If you can HEAR your needle going through the fabric, it's too dull in most cases. JMHO.
03-17-2011, 05:12 PM
#120
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Maine-ly Florida
Posts: 3,917
Originally Posted by BellaBoo
A co worker use to own a small sewing factory that contracted sewing some clothes dept stores. He did all the sewing machine repairs. He said if the machines had outside threading lint wasn't a big concern, just clean when you see the lint. It's the inside threading the new machines have that lint build up will cause damage. You can't see or get to the lint in them. Vintage machines have outside threading with lots of thread guides. Thread guides are very useful for a good stitch. It's cheaper to make a machine with inside treading and horizontal spool spindles and few thread guides. The savings can go into other features of the machines that most want these days.
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