nativetexan

Peckish, don't say that. i have tons of apple cores cut out. hopefully hand stitching will not be in my future. my fingers do not like it. I love curves though. mainly drunkard's path blocks so far.

Notwendy

I found this youtube video helpful. It is by Sew Kind of Wonderful - they make the Quick Curve Rulers.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...AB3E&FORM=VIRE

She uses a regular foot and holds the two pieces in different hands, concave on top, and eases the two together using the bottom right hand side of the foot as a guide, along with her fold marks to make sure she stays on track.

She is very speedy but assures anyone can do it with more practice. I tried it a few times (much more slowly) and they came out better than I expected with very little puckering (not worth redoing once ironed).

SusieQOH

I use a lot of pins but I'm going to try glue (the washable kind)

Peckish

Well, there are two options I came up with as alternatives. The first is to turn under the edges and applique them. This actually works pretty well. I tried both hand and machine applique, both were pretty successful, but the machine method was much faster. I used tiny dots of washable Elmer's to keep the pieces in place, then stitched just a hair over the folded edge, it turned out great.

The other alternative is one I saw at a vendor's booth somewhere. I smacked myself in the head and said "why didn't I think of that." She simply sewed the pieces as raw-edge applique, and used the inevitable fraying as a design element. I plan to take that step even further by sewing chenille strips on top of the raw edges, if I can find whatever corner I chucked that UFO in. I plan on making my own chenille by cutting 1/2" wide strips, layering them 3 or 4 deep on the seam, then stitching on top. Once it's washed and dried, I'll take a stiff chenille brush to fluff the fibers and make the quilt very texture-y. Sounds fun, doesn't it?

Jordan

I agree with a couple of members here that lots of pins and slow sewing does help.

OutdoorQuilter

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I thought I would give this a try and had to Google what foot might be compatible with my machine (Shark Euro Pro). I pinned, I practiced, and then I went to Nutall's. Using a plain 1/4" seam guide foot has worked miracles!! Every single Curve has come out perfectly. The Curve Master was fighting me the *entire* time I was using it...
On a different note, I have a Curve Master now for sale - lightly used - lol!

Sincerely thank you all for giving me ideas I seriously tried almost every one of them.

OutdoorQuilter

Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I thought I would give this a try and had to Google what foot might be compatible with my machine (Shark Euro Pro). I pinned, I practiced, and then I went to Nutall's. Using a plain 1/4" seam guide foot has worked miracles!! Every single Curve has come out perfectly. The Curve Master was fighting me the *entire* time I was using it...
On a different note, I have a Curve Master now for sale - lightly used - lol!

Sincerely thank you all for giving me ideas I seriously tried almost every one of them.

quiltingshorttimer

I do like Ckcrowl and find that if I sew fairly slow, they work just fine--I'd add two things--with a DP or other curved block that isn't paper pieced, I plan on doing some trimming of the block usually, and secondly, be sure that you are cutting the straight sides of the DP block on the straight of grain so that the curves (both convex and concave) are actually on the bias, allowing for the stretching needed to get the matched edges.

themadpatter

Here is a tiny tutorial I did for the last person who asked this question. Free form Quilt with Curves...How?

PineHaven

Interesting. One post says concave shape on the top and another says concave on the bottom. Which do you find gives the best results.