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Any ideas for a stuck clutch? (Kenmore 117.959)

Any ideas for a stuck clutch? (Kenmore 117.959)

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Old 10-20-2014, 05:37 AM
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Default Any ideas for a stuck clutch? (Kenmore 117.959)

Well I've gotten my Kenmore sewing really well now. New rubber bobbin tire, new rubber on the drive motor, a little oil, and she runs like a top! Yay!

The Only problem left now is that I can Not get the clutch to release. There's a screw in the cap of the clutch, I unscrewed that all the way and still no go. If I really crank hard on that cap and hold the flywheel, the cap will move but it's still engaged, so the flywheel stays steady in my hand but the needle and pick-up lever start to move. That can't be right!!

I've double-checked the manual a few times, I'm Sure I'm twisting in the proper direction. But it just won't budge! I've put oil in the oil hole, unscrewed the screw....that was all I had, I'm out of ideas. The manual isn't offering any other suggestions.

Anybody have any tricks I can try? I don't really understand what's going on inside of there so I don't know what's safe or smart to try.

Last edited by QuiltnNan; 01-01-2018 at 11:05 AM. Reason: remove shouting/all caps
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Old 10-20-2014, 06:00 AM
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Sounds like you're going to have to take it apart and clean it. This shows you how. Just don't use WD40 in there unless you like taking it apart to clean it because you'll have to do it again if you do.
http://shesasewingmachinemechanic.bl...er-clutch.html
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:38 AM
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I just tested removing the clutch from my 959 and no problems.

Make sure you're turning the clutch toward you while holding the hand wheel still. I've found that sometimes if you turn the clutch away from you as if you're tightening it, that will free it. Have you tried kerosene or another solvent? You might also try a hair dryer or sitting the machine in a very warm spot for a while.

From what you've described, the hand wheel is disengaged from the shaft and the clutch but the clutch isn't disengaged from the shaft. It could be that the washer is stuck to the clutch and the shaft.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:42 AM
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I generally use Liquid Wrench or Kroil and some heat. It's the old gunky dried oil inside that is sticking it together.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:55 AM
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Take the little screw out, turn the clutch nob counter clockwise to remove it, then soak the hand wheel - shaft area with Tri-Flow oil, is what I'd do. Then remove the hand wheel and thoroughly clean the main shaft and the shaft bore inside the hand wheel. Lightly oil the shaft and reassemble.

They aren't that complicated.


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Old 10-27-2014, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by J Miller View Post
Take the little screw out, turn the clutch nob counter clockwise to remove it, then soak the hand wheel - shaft area with Tri-Flow oil, is what I'd do. Then remove the hand wheel and thoroughly clean the main shaft and the shaft bore inside the hand wheel. Lightly oil the shaft and reassemble.
The little screw is out, but that clutch cap doesn't budge. When I said stuck, I meant STUCK! It doesn't budge in either direction. If I didn't know any better I would think it was all one solid piece, it's that immobile.

Originally Posted by KenmoreRulesAll View Post
Have you tried kerosene or another solvent? You might also try a hair dryer or sitting the machine in a very warm spot for a while.
Originally Posted by Mrs. SewNSew View Post
I generally use Liquid Wrench or Kroil and some heat. It's the old gunky dried oil inside that is sticking it together.
Where would I apply liquid wrench or kerosene? Into the oil hole right there in the screw cap? Or do I try to get it in around the edges as well/instead?

These are probably bonehead questions, but (as I'm sure you can tell) I have no clue what I'm doing here, LOL.
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Old 10-28-2014, 02:40 AM
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That wheel is a very close fit. Dried oil is keeping it stuck. I've seen machines with torn up wheels from someone beating on it. I've seen bent shafts - who knows what Egor did with that one. Turn the machine wheel end up. Drop a little oil in there where the wheel meets the top hat thingy that is holding it on the shaft (where you see pieces of metal meet.) Then let it soak a while. Then if it isn't loose after soaking and heating for a good while, turn it wheel side down. Use a rubber mallet and bang down on it as you turn it. Careful so you don't bend the shaft. Be careful so you don't loose parts and bits of the wheel by getting too aggressive with a hammer. I have had to hold on to the needle bar on a couple but I don't recommend that unless you have to and can do it with out bending the needle bar. If it still doesn't spin after a little soak, try a little heat. Heat up the shaft area so it can free up the dried oil. Kerosene and liquid wrench can mess with your sewing machine's finish so if you use it be very careful. When you do get if off, use a little bit of alcohol to clean the dried up oil off. I don't know what oil Kenmore used on some of those machines but I hate that stuff. I have a couple Kenmore machines that have that stuff on the inside. No amount of cleaning seems to touch that stuff. I think Kroil softened it for a while once. Then I couldn't find the spot again. If this all scares you and you think you might ruin the machine, take it somewhere and have it done. I realize not everybody is cut out to work on their machine.
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Old 10-28-2014, 05:10 AM
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Thanks miriam! I will try this....I'm not 100% sure I'm cut out to work on machines either but I Want to at least give it a good try. I'm a little fearful of doing something stupid in my ignorance and breaking something, so I've been hesitant to use too much force on this. Heat and oil sounds nice and gentle, I will start there! I need to figure out how to get this thing out of the cabinet anyway, it sits in there a little lopsided and I think one of the hinges might be bent so I want to get it out anyway and see if it's something I can bend back. (If not I can live with that, it's not Totally wonky, just a little off)

I'm starting to think this stuck clutch is why it got sent off to the thrift shop. Fortunately it doesn't appear as if anybody did anything violent to it trying to fix it, so hopefully I won't be the one to ruin it!

Last edited by QuiltnNan; 01-01-2018 at 11:05 AM. Reason: remove shouting/all caps
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:24 AM
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Default Thank you! !

Miriam this just helped me get my machine running again.any thanks!

Originally Posted by miriam View Post
That wheel is a very close fit. Dried oil is keeping it stuck. I've seen machines with torn up wheels from someone beating on it. I've seen bent shafts - who knows what Egor did with that one. Turn the machine wheel end up. Drop a little oil in there where the wheel meets the top hat thingy that is holding it on the shaft (where you see pieces of metal meet.) Then let it soak a while. Then if it isn't loose after soaking and heating for a good while, turn it wheel side down. Use a rubber mallet and bang down on it as you turn it. Careful so you don't bend the shaft. Be careful so you don't loose parts and bits of the wheel by getting too aggressive with a hammer. I have had to hold on to the needle bar on a couple but I don't recommend that unless you have to and can do it with out bending the needle bar. If it still doesn't spin after a little soak, try a little heat. Heat up the shaft area so it can free up the dried oil. Kerosene and liquid wrench can mess with your sewing machine's finish so if you use it be very careful. When you do get if off, use a little bit of alcohol to clean the dried up oil off. I don't know what oil Kenmore used on some of those machines but I hate that stuff. I have a couple Kenmore machines that have that stuff on the inside. No amount of cleaning seems to touch that stuff. I think Kroil softened it for a while once. Then I couldn't find the spot again. If this all scares you and you think you might ruin the machine, take it somewhere and have it done. I realize not everybody is cut out to work on their machine.
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:42 AM
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Not much to add, except that waiting overnight, after having drenched the thing in your elixir of choice, sometimes does the trick. After the elixir, you can lightly/sharply tappety-tap-tap with a plastic hammer if you like. That can crack the dried oil enough to let the elixer penetrate. Maybe try a soft (not beryllium) copper hammer, if you're feeling intrepid. At some point, I would get out my channel locks, wrap the inner knob with shoe leather, and give it a good twist, back-and-forth style. Only do this, though, if you've got experience mechanicing stuff. Over time you get a sense for how to use heavier tools (and oxy-acetylene torches) with a light touch. The good news: they Always come loose. They shrug their little steel shoulders and give up the fight.

FWIW, I've never had kero (or wd40 for that matter) hurt a finish on a sewing machine, though I always test, every time: I mix in a little huile-du-jour ​(Miracle Mystery is good, and minty) and pour it on. You're gonna clean the thing up anyway, aren't ya?

PS: Tappety-tap only on plated surfaces: painted surfaces will chip, even under the gentle ministrations of a wedding ring!

Last edited by QuiltnNan; 01-01-2018 at 11:06 AM. Reason: remove shouting/all caps
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