Jeanette Frantz

This is Phillip

The reason that I un installed the field coils, removed the old wrapping tape, replaced the power leads, and re wrapped the field coils with fiberglass cloth tape is the possibility that the old tape is oil soaked and will carbonize over time causing leakage current to the metal frame of the machine which is dangerous.

Another idea is to obtain a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) adapter possibly from Lowes, Home Depot, or most hardware stores. Plug the machine into the adapter, turn on the light, and run it. If the GFCI trips further checking of all the wiring is necessary. It could be a life saver

NopahDesertRat

Thanks Phillip and others who answered.
I did manage to get the motor off and I did find a wireing diagram to get them back right. I also found a blog about rewiring and there is a kit available on ebay to do the rewire. It has a rubber grommet for the motor wires and shrink tube and even some new grease wicks for the grease pots.
The blog walks you through it really well, but as I have only done a small amount of soldering I may try to find someone to help me, like maybe my brother. I can't believe how completely brittle the insulation is on the motor wire and the wire to the pedal. The power cord is still flexible and in good shape. I am thinking it may be a replacement. Someone had used tape on parts of the wires. I have a in cabinet 201 that is fine and it is a year older than this one. The cords on it are good.
Thanks again everyone, and I will update you on my progress.

Ethel

J Miller

I should have read this thread through from the beginning. I guess I lean to the K.I.S.S. theory because I sure didn't go to the extent that Phillip did when I rewired the motor on my 15-91 (same motor as the 201-2). Just in case my thoughts and experiences might be of interest, here's the post I made when I did mine.
{ http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...r-t205360.html }.
My machine runs just fine and sews up a pink storm.


Phillip,
Can you post a pic of that dim bulb machine you mentioned? Sounds like an ancient gadget I'd like to have.


Joe

Jeanette Frantz

This is Phillip.

I'll attach four pictures of it including the schematic and try to include a parts list and information about building it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]519126[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519127[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519128[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519129[/ATTACH]

The 600 watt dimmer is optional. The tester will be easier to build if the dimmer and ammeter banana jacks are left off. Also only a single switch is needed unless the ammeter bypass switch is used as a power switch. Suspicious machines warrant this tester to be plugged into a GFCI outlet

Materials needed:

2 4 inch metal electrical box with matching dual duplex cover plate.
1 single cover plate for a switch (for the dimmer
1 duplex receptacle
1 duplex switch (can be a single switch if not using an AC ammeter with the tester)
1 three prong extension cord 6 foot (DO NOT USE A TWO WIRE CORD !!!!)
1 light socket that plugs directly into a receptacle (Picture included)
1 dual Y adapter (optional)
2 banana plug jacks (optional)
2 12 inch banana plug leads (optional)
2 Romex connectors to tie the boxes together if built to the picture
1 600 watt light dimmer ( DO NOT USE WITH INDUCTION MOTORS OR TRANSFORMER OPERATED DEVICES) Doing so may let the smoke out of them and they won't work right. (Sorry for the bad humor)

Most vintage machines uses carbon brushes so no harm done as long as the motor is running at one third speed up to full speed.

Various incandescent light bulbs ranging 15 to 300 watts.
Connecting wire to make the necessary internal connections.

The duplex receptacle needs to have the brass jumpers removed on the silver and brass sides. The switch likely will have one jumper but it can be left intact. A complete schematic is attached and can be modified to fit your needs. The materials list above is as built

Build and use with caution and at your own risk

If there are any questions please ask and I'll reply as soon as possible

Jeanette Frantz

This is Phillip.

Three Romex connectors are needed for the dim bulb tester instead of two. The third is needed for the cord.

Jeanette Frantz

This is Phillip
[ATTACH=CONFIG]519133[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]519136[/ATTACH]
Here are 2 pictures of the 201 potted motor I rewired. I performed the same re wire technique several times when I worked at a local sewing machine and vacuum sales and service shop.