Making Parts

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Old 02-08-2014, 12:26 PM
  #11  
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I guess I'm confused here, what will the part be made of?? Rubber or metal?
I have a friend who has a bunch of machines and he can make metal parts, but he takes a big piece of the proper metal then uses the machines to cut and shape the part. He's made parts for motorcycles, guns, odd screws and stuff like that. It takes a long time though...
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:55 PM
  #12  
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ok, dried out ok. I have now cut the backing boards.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461200[/ATTACH]

I have also cut the air vents (thin groves cut into it at angles)
these help the metal flow better by giving the otherwise trapped air a place to go.
I usually cut one into the end but this is a tall piece and the weight of the molten metal would make that a drain plug not a vent for air.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]461202[/ATTACH]

all wrapped up. Once my daughters are done doing dishes I will begin melting the pewter (kitchen stove top)
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461205[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails 2014-02-08-13.33.03.jpg   2014-02-08-13.39.49.jpg   2014-02-08-13.40.50.jpg  
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:59 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by cindynvb View Post
I guess I'm confused here, what will the part be made of?? Rubber or metal?
I have a friend who has a bunch of machines and he can make metal parts, but he takes a big piece of the proper metal then uses the machines to cut and shape the part. He's made parts for motorcycles, guns, odd screws and stuff like that. It takes a long time though...
Metal. The process you are describing is called machining. using mills, lathes, etc. Yes, makes perfect parts hard as original.

This is for soft metal parts like pewter.

For Medium metals like Brass, copper, bronze I use sand casting. (different thread different weekend...)

For steel I machine or forge by hand and/or heat. No mill here ,but I have one (and a lathe) at work we use to make screws and bolts and the like.
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Old 02-08-2014, 02:56 PM
  #14  
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Here is the setup i use. That is a plate of 3/8" steel that i use as a "heat sink"

[ATTACH=CONFIG]461210[/ATTACH]

Here we are stirring off the oxidized crud
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461211[/ATTACH]

Metal is poured...
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461212[/ATTACH]

The first cast! It usually takes a cast or two to heat the mold enough to let the metal flow completely. This one has a slight bubble at the arrow on the left.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461213[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails 2014-02-08-14.17.16.jpg   2014-02-08-14.37.08.jpg   2014-02-08-14.40.11.jpg   2014-02-08-14.42.47.jpg  
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:31 PM
  #15  
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Very cool Steve! I took a foundry class in college. I wish I knew then what I know now, I would have paid a lot more attention and made some much cooler stuff than I did at the time.
Rodney
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Old 02-08-2014, 03:46 PM
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done but for the drilling and tapping.
(which is going to wait until we get the set screws THEN we make them match)

Left is original, middle is part after quick clean and buff, and one straight from the mold
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461225[/ATTACH]

and what really matters...
It fits on the part the original came from.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]461226[/ATTACH]
Attached Thumbnails 2014-02-08-15.33.27.jpg   2014-02-08-15.36.25.jpg  
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Old 02-08-2014, 05:00 PM
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You had my attention the whole way...loved it.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:10 PM
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glad to help. The RTV stuff is about $30 the Melting pot was $50 (and it was electric when I got it)
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:38 AM
  #19  
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Interesting. Thanks Steve.

CD in Oklahoma
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Old 02-09-2014, 05:53 AM
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Very educational. I learned something from this thread. Now I do hope Cathy (Mizkaki) will post some pics of her Boye Needle Round display after the new needle is installed.

Good work.

Joe
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