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Thread: Old Sewing Machine Identification

  1. #26
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    I seriously don't thing anything works well enogh on your machine Massey; the various spray can stuff I have tried works much the same, minor differences and one thing can turn out to be just the right thing one time, and the next time another product seems to make the difference. Either way, in most cases it is patience, applications, and multiple reapplications that does the jobs. Some of these products contain different ingredients, and when those are identifiable we can switch product after a while. Called, lubricant, penetrant, bolt-off, water dispersant, they tend to be much the same stuff with just one or two differing ingredients.

  2. #27
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    Kroil probably would work the best but its fairly expensive compared to other penetration oils I've used. I was using liquid wrench which does do a fairly good job. Another one I like is sea foam. I'd say those two work about the same. I think I'll give pb blaster a shot because its cheap and I can pick it up at my local Canadian Tire. I'll probably end up using the propane torch to get some of those screws loose along with a penetration oil. This seems to be almost a science experiment with the stuff I've tried but I haven't spent much so far.

  3. #28
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    Maybe apply a bit of Krud Kutter and let it work over night? I'm assuming you have some left. There stuff like CRC freeze-off that's given good reviews, but it can get expensive buying one bottle after the other just to try. Some products have MoS2 listed as active ingredient, others methyl salicylate. I should really make a list of clever ingredients to look for.

  4. #29
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    I do have krud kutter left but its not good for penetration. When I did the first test, I made sure I sprayed a little extra on the screws. They didn't budge. I'm also fairly busy with school so I'm not doing as much work as I'd like to with this machine. Basically, I only do work with this machine on weekends. Also I'm not sure on how much more work I want to do with this machine for now. Basically for this year I'm probably gonna unseize the machine, clean up the non-painted parts and wait until spring next year to paint the machine. Usually it snows closer to halloween or even later where I live. This year we got snow on the last day of summer and the weather has been miserable since. Spray painting in the house isn't an option either so I'll have to wait.

  5. #30
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    Just remember that it didn't get in this condition over night and it's not gonna get all freed up over night. Patience is a good thing here.

    Cari

  6. #31
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    I picked up some pb blaster today and gave it a try. Just pb blaster alone didn't do much. Maybe if I waited long it would have. With the help of the torch I got s couple more screws loose. Just a word of caution. If you heat up metal and spray pb blaster on it, you will see a lot of smoke and I mean a lot. Its a good thing that I was working with the door open in the shop.
    Yes patience is key. This is not my first rodeo with trying to loosen extremely rusted parts. I know it probably won't happen but it would sure be nice if it would unseize over night.

  7. #32
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    I like Kroil best, and time will help any penetrating oil. Days or weeks. You might try dropping the whole machine in a bucket of diesel and let it soak. Ironically, boiling can also remove rust. You'd need a big pot, and you can't borrow my brew kettle for that.

  8. #33
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    The annyoing thing about Kroil and PB Blaster is much the same as WD-40, the active ingredients are secret, listed under a % of proprietary agents. There is more than a bit of wild goose chase involved when going for one or the other, or just trying different stuff. There are brands that make different blends and let us know what the active ingredient is, like CRC. Applying the right stuff and let it go to work is probably the only way in cases like this, let it stand for a week or three, then reapply or altering with something else.

  9. #34
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    Well, I think I figured out the mystery to getting these screws and parts unseized. What I did today was heated up some screws to red hot. I waited a second for them to turn dark again and tried turning so I turned them a bit. Then I sprayed some pb blaster and they turned out like a dream.

  10. #35
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    Great! Thank you for letting us know what worked and evidently well.


    Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
    Janey & John

  11. #36
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    impressive. I've used hair dryer heat, but not a torch. Yet.
    "Sacrifices must be made." Otto Lilienthal

  12. #37
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    I've never heard of using a hair dryer for heating up parts. For my machine, I need a torch. If I had an oxy acetylene torch, it would be even better because its a smaller flame thats hotter. I could get parts to red hot in just a few seconds but the propane torch is doing its job alright. These parts are so rusted in place but slowly I'm getting them out.

  13. #38
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    Hair dryer is for simpler repairs. Melting old stuck grease and such. I've used a torch on old tractors with stuck parts. Never considered it on a sewing machine.
    "Sacrifices must be made." Otto Lilienthal

  14. #39
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    Well, Its been a while and I have an update. Not on the machine, its still coming apart piece by piece. This is something related to this sewing machine. I somehow found the table for this machine at my place, well, whats left of it. I haven't found it all yet I'm go this weekend and see what I can find for parts. I'll take pictures too. It was in the most interesting place. It was under some old heavy steel wheel off of a piece of farm equipment that was nowhere near where I found the sewing machine.

  15. #40
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    glad you found it. every bit is history.
    "Sacrifices must be made." Otto Lilienthal

  16. #41
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    Well this is what I found of the table. Its a bit broken but repairable. I'm still missing some smaller parts that broke off so I'm gonna keep looking for those. I didn't find the cabinet so I'll keep looking for that. If I can't find it, I'll make a simple table top for it. Because I found almost all of the table, I won't make the portable wooden base like I mentioned earlier, I'll fix up the old table and use it instead.
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  17. #42
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    Thank you for your updates. You sure have your work cut out for you.


    Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
    Janey & John

  18. #43
    Super Member OurWorkbench's Avatar
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    Haven't heard about this machine lately, How is it coming?


    Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
    Janey & John

  19. #44
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    Is this the same treadle base? Here's one too. With a bit of luck parts for treadles can turn up at give away prices, newly cleaned, painted and oiled always cost more.

  20. #45
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    Here's just a quick update. Soon after my last post winter came into full effect. My shop where i work on the machine isn't heated either so its been just too cold to do anything with it. I suppose what I could do is de-rust the parts I do have off the machine. This was just a quick update to tell you that I'm not dead and neither is this project. Hopefully it warms up quickly in March and I can get back to work on this machine.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickey2 View Post
    I did a quick picture search and came up with this. It looks like it was made by National and sold under various names. The body isn't spot on, but similar enough for me to suspect it's a National. Here is a list of various National models.







    It's a bit off topic but I'm just back from my mum's where I took a look at her ancient treadle sewing machine that was sitting unused in the living room and it is this exact model, decal and all except that there is a screwed on plaque on the horizontal arm with the brand "Simplex" and on the inside of the vertocal arm there is a "made in USA [sic]" inscription in decal.
    I don't know about elsewhere in the world but in France, Simplex is a brand still known nowadays for manufacturing bicycle parts (pedalier and so on)

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Massey850 View Post
    Here's just a quick update. Soon after my last post winter came into full effect. My shop where i work on the machine isn't heated either so its been just too cold to do anything with it. I suppose what I could do is de-rust the parts I do have off the machine. This was just a quick update to tell you that I'm not dead and neither is this project. Hopefully it warms up quickly in March and I can get back to work on this machine.
    Thank you for the update.

    Also thank you for the tip about the torch. Sometimes we forget about some of the more extreme measures to loosen things up. We got a "new" used press brake at work that there was a bolt (over an inch in diameter) that was stuck and Blaster wasn't working, I mentioned a torch. Tried a vintage blow dryer that got so hot that it turned itself off. So out came the torch. Just heating the top portion, one could see the blaster coming out the other side. I didn't time it or see the metal change colors, but it finally moved.


    Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
    Janey & John

  23. #48
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    Well, It warmed up a lot this weekend and I had a chance to do some work on the sewing machine again. I got a few more parts off. I have a question. Is there something that holds the flywheel/ handwheel to the shaft. I have my hand wheel turning but it doesn't want to come off. I thought I should ask before I break something.

    Also the torch is a very useful tool when it comes to freeing stuck or frozen parts. Its good that it worked for you.

  24. #49
    Super Member OurWorkbench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Massey850 View Post
    ... Is there something that holds the flywheel/ handwheel to the shaft. I have my hand wheel turning but it doesn't want to come off. I thought I should ask before I break something.
    I couldn't find a picture of one my machines from the hand wheel end and with the stop motion knob off, I know that some of them are different. A good description of the knob that needs to come off first on a Singer machine can be found at https://oldsingersewingmachineblog.c...utch-part-one/ I am not affiliated I think it may be two parts. It appears that you have something similar.

    A word of caution about a pulley puller trying to get the hand wheel off after the stop motion -- if it is still stuck, you could break the spokes. LeonF just had a thread about what happens when someone had tried and ruined the hand wheel. https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintag...l-t303382.html That is a little different stop motion clutch than what I believe you have on your machine.


    Janey - Neat people never make the exciting discoveries I do.
    Janey & John

  25. #50
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    good job on even recognizing it for what it was

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