Mrs. SewNSew

I have watched the video but he never shows that particular clip. I'm pretty sure I have it back in the right spot though. I believe it goes in a small slot between the motor (metal housing) and is directly behind the insulator helping to keep it in place.

I didn't find any loose connections so far. I did find oil in the connections and cleaned that up. The commutator is unevenly worn and I don't like the looks of the wrapping. I am wondering if this motor was re-wound? I have it cleaned up and back together so I'm going to continue as if all is well and see where we end up. I have taken apart and cleaned enough motors now to feel pretty confident in what I'm doing for the most part. If it still won't work I'll have to test the motor and cord separately.

Mrs. SewNSew

Miriam, am I right? Or am I about to electrocute myself??

Mrs. SewNSew

OK. I watched that video over and over and never did see the little spring clip. I didn't get electrocuted though so that is good. The motor is screaming right along. I did add a drop of the motor oil and am running it. However, I might have another little problem. The handwheel is a bit spongy. Is the fiber gear supposed to fit tight to the handwheel? Has anyone ever taken it off? Mine as a bit of play and I'm not so sure that's as it should be. The handwheel has the fiber gear a little pin that seems to push in and out and a spring clip.

Mrs. SewNSew

Gah. Thank goodness I take photos as I go. I dismantled it. Something has to be out of place. Will update when I get it back together!

J Miller

Christy,

Your armature looks fine. I would have used fine sand paper on a flat stick to clean the commutator but it isn't 100% necessary.

The fiber gear is actually spring loaded to the hand wheel. That is why it's not solid. They can be disassembled, but isn't really necessary.

Joe

Mrs. SewNSew

Thanks Joe. I always love a second opinion. I did use some 600 grit and then 1500 to lightly hand sand the commutator as long as I was there. The handwheel is back together now. phew! I went ahead and cleaned that out too. A lot of grease had snuck it's way in there. Things are actually sounding pretty good! The motor has almost evened out. I think with a little more running it will be fine. I ordered up the pin for the door on the face and some spool pins. I'm going to hold off on a few of the other parts for now. I think I may have seen a donor at the local salvage shop. They won't be open again for a couple weeks, but if there is a donor machine there, I am hoping they would let it go at a reasonable price.

J Miller

Christy,

The 500 this thread was started about was like yours, missing lots of parts and in need of a lot of work. It cost us some money although I don't know how much as well as the cost to get the parts.

The other 500 was free. Got it from Freecycle. Lady didn't know what she had. It didn't need any parts but needed lots of cleaning and TLC.

They are worth it. I'd rather refurbish a 401a or a 500a than touch a new machine.

Joe

Mrs. SewNSew

Joe, I am stoked that it seems to be a survivor. I wasn't sure when I took it in, but I was certain it was needing parts and a lot of work. I still have a ways to go with it, but it looks like I can bring it back from the brink of death after all!

I am constantly amazed by these old machines and how well they were made. Years of neglect can be wiped away by putting in some work on them and they can be brought back to be wonderful working machines again.

I really enjoy the work and it's very rewarding time and time again.

cricket_iscute

Joe, I am really impressed! I might not have tackled that machine, since I have an idea of what would be involved. And you are the first person I have ever known to put the nose covering back on a Singer 500. I have been told it was not possible (I should have known better). Congratulations, Joe!!!

Cricket

J Miller

Cricket,

The nose is not held on by anything special. As long as nothing is broken, it pivots on two small pins. To remove it, just remove or loosen the top of the machine for clearance then open the nose piece and lift it up so the pins clear the holes and off it comes. Put it back on the same way. The pins sometimes work loose and then the nose won't stay on. Or somehow the hinges get broken. But otherwise, they are simple and easy to work with.

Joe