Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell
03-05-2012, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizkaki
Monica,
I believe that your Eldredge should take a 20x1 needle. A 15x1 scooted down slightly will work just fine. Remind me when I see you at the TOGA to show you how to make a guide for setting the needle when using a non-standard needle.
Cathy
I believe that your Eldredge should take a 20x1 needle. A 15x1 scooted down slightly will work just fine. Remind me when I see you at the TOGA to show you how to make a guide for setting the needle when using a non-standard needle.
Cathy
03-05-2012, 06:46 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Joe,
Concerning your Edison HA-1 15 Clone that you are having trouble with. Join the Yahoo group: Vintage Japan Sewing Machines". Once you are a member go to the group site and click on Files. The third from the bottom file is "Trouble shooting chart". Looks like it is a great service guide to the Japanese machines.
Hope this helps, Judy
Concerning your Edison HA-1 15 Clone that you are having trouble with. Join the Yahoo group: Vintage Japan Sewing Machines". Once you are a member go to the group site and click on Files. The third from the bottom file is "Trouble shooting chart". Looks like it is a great service guide to the Japanese machines.
Hope this helps, Judy
03-05-2012, 07:17 AM
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Candace, what model Kenmore are you looking for? There are a lot of Kenmores in our area. We can keep a eye out for one here too.
03-05-2012, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by vintagemotif
Candace are you going to the TOGA in Turlock on the 10th. Regardless of your love for e-machines, you should joins us. Bernie has some very nice e-machines that he loves to show off at these events.
Thanks for the invite, but I already am booked that day. It's my guild's monthly, sew session. It's a long, but fun 10 hours of sewing marathon. The harp space looks a smidge larger on the White. With the FW being 11 lbs. and the White 12 lbs, plus the additional weight of a travel case, (I don't own one for this White) the FW is lighter for sure. And much cuter in my eyes. I don't think the White wins any beauty awards.
03-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Crossstitcher
Candace, what model Kenmore are you looking for? There are a lot of Kenmores in our area. We can keep a eye out for one here too.
I'm looking for the pinkish colored model 89 also called the "Lady Kenmore". I don't care about the cabinet but want the paint to be in excellent condition. They are hard to come by :< It's the only Kenmore I covet!
03-05-2012, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn
Quilt Mom just sent you a PM
03-05-2012, 07:54 AM
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The Kenmore I'm looking for also has the "official" model # listed as 516.891 It's a cutie!
03-05-2012, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizkaki
Joe,
It's really rare for these old straight stitch machines to go out of hook timing. They usually had a roll pin placed instead of a set screw when the factory set the timing, making it darn near impossible for the timing to go out.
Frequently the needlebar height is the issue. Needlebar height always has to be set before
the hook is timed, so start there. This is the way I check. Turn the machine’s handwheel in the normal direction until the point of the needle reaches “dead bottom center”. DBC is where the needle is at it’s lowest point. Starting there turn the handwheel until the needle has risen exactly .093 inches. The point of the needle should now be directly behind the needle in the middle of the scarf (dip in the needle just above the eye). If not, where is the point? If the needle has risen .093” and the hook point is not behind the needle then the timing may be off. If it is behind the needle, but not in the scarf then the needlebar height is off.
Always start with a new needle and make sure it is not a stretch needle.
You said that the thread jams. Which thread, needle or bobbin? Check both tensions. Make sure the presserbar is down (easy to forget).
Cathy
It's really rare for these old straight stitch machines to go out of hook timing. They usually had a roll pin placed instead of a set screw when the factory set the timing, making it darn near impossible for the timing to go out.
Frequently the needlebar height is the issue. Needlebar height always has to be set before
the hook is timed, so start there. This is the way I check. Turn the machine’s handwheel in the normal direction until the point of the needle reaches “dead bottom center”. DBC is where the needle is at it’s lowest point. Starting there turn the handwheel until the needle has risen exactly .093 inches. The point of the needle should now be directly behind the needle in the middle of the scarf (dip in the needle just above the eye). If not, where is the point? If the needle has risen .093” and the hook point is not behind the needle then the timing may be off. If it is behind the needle, but not in the scarf then the needlebar height is off.
Always start with a new needle and make sure it is not a stretch needle.
You said that the thread jams. Which thread, needle or bobbin? Check both tensions. Make sure the presserbar is down (easy to forget).
Cathy
Some clarifications for me:
Where on the machine do I measure this .093"? That is a very specific measurement, so it much have reference points to achieve.
Back to the machine:
When I got this machine, there was an interference between the presser foot and needle clamps. Comparing the EDISON to my HOTHER (which runs great) I found the presser foot set high, and the needle bar low ... wait, was it the other way around? I don't know, at any rate when the presser bar was lifted and the hand wheel turned the two parts hit each other.
The feed dogs were also out of adjustment, the middle row of teeth would hit the forward edge of the needle plate's slot when it was put in reverse.
So ...... using information I received from folks over on the Sewing Forum (before it was killed by the spammers ) I worked on adjusting it. I can't find that specific information right now, it might be on my other computer. I gotta look.
They also suggested the Singer 15-91 service books but they are enough different that I can't make the connection between them and the Edison.
OK, to last night.
I set the machine on my bench, put a bobbin in it, a spool of thread and tried to tread it. I simply could not get the thread through the eye of the needle so I put another needle in it. (Now, the needle that was in it was a Singer 90-14 needle, but the point was not a point it was a chisel shape. I'm not familiar with that one. And it's eye was small for a 14. The one I put in it came from a Schmetz 90-14 Universal type needle box.)
Threaded it up and started sewing by turning it by hand. It sewed...... hmmm. So then I put a belt on it, plugged it in and slowly powered it up. It sewed ......
Before when I tried it would jam up under the needle plate. But I put it away about three months ago and have been so occupied with other things I cannot remember just how it messed up.
I sewed scraps with it last night for quite a while. Ran two partial bobbins out and broke the top thread a number of times.
The only thing I can say for positive right now is the bobbin / top tension is out of balance. The bobbin thread is just running flat across the surface.
I'm going to work on that as well as check what you told me.
Will report back later.
Joe
03-05-2012, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizkaki
Joe,
It's really rare for these old straight stitch machines to go out of hook timing. They usually had a roll pin placed instead of a set screw when the factory set the timing, making it darn near impossible for the timing to go out.
Frequently the needlebar height is the issue. Needlebar height always has to be set before
the hook is timed, so start there. This is the way I check. Turn the machine’s handwheel in the normal direction until the point of the needle reaches “dead bottom center”. DBC is where the needle is at it’s lowest point. Starting there turn the handwheel until the needle has risen exactly .093 inches. The point of the needle should now be directly behind the needle in the middle of the scarf (dip in the needle just above the eye). If not, where is the point? If the needle has risen .093” and the hook point is not behind the needle then the timing may be off. If it is behind the needle, but not in the scarf then the needlebar height is off.
Always start with a new needle and make sure it is not a stretch needle.
You said that the thread jams. Which thread, needle or bobbin? Check both tensions. Make sure the presserbar is down (easy to forget).
Cathy
It's really rare for these old straight stitch machines to go out of hook timing. They usually had a roll pin placed instead of a set screw when the factory set the timing, making it darn near impossible for the timing to go out.
Frequently the needlebar height is the issue. Needlebar height always has to be set before
the hook is timed, so start there. This is the way I check. Turn the machine’s handwheel in the normal direction until the point of the needle reaches “dead bottom center”. DBC is where the needle is at it’s lowest point. Starting there turn the handwheel until the needle has risen exactly .093 inches. The point of the needle should now be directly behind the needle in the middle of the scarf (dip in the needle just above the eye). If not, where is the point? If the needle has risen .093” and the hook point is not behind the needle then the timing may be off. If it is behind the needle, but not in the scarf then the needlebar height is off.
Always start with a new needle and make sure it is not a stretch needle.
You said that the thread jams. Which thread, needle or bobbin? Check both tensions. Make sure the presserbar is down (easy to forget).
Cathy
A good percentage of the vintage straight stitch machines I have had timing issues. One was completely out of time and the others could sew a straight stitch, but the moment I FMQ'd had skipped stitches which is a sign of the timing not being perfect. All of the 301's I've purchased have needed timing adjustment and were too far away from the hook. We need to remember that factory settings after 50 years have probably been played with by service techs and or those playing with the machines that don't necessarily know what they're doing. My 301's now FMQ beautifully, but it took me some time to figure out what the problem was and correct it. I even had one 301 that was missing a hook screw that made it go out of time every occasion I used it.
03-05-2012, 12:40 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2012
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OKee Dokeee, I went down stairs and figured out a way to get an accurate measurement.
Ran the needle down to the BDC then turned the hand wheel till it rose up .093". At that point the hook is behind the needle at the eye, but the tip of the hook is aprox 2/32" past the needle.
So far I haven't found any instructions on how to re-time the hook that doesn't describe the replacement of it. The Singer 15 manuals are no help in this one.
I did sign up with that Yahoo Japanese machine group and did download that 5 part maintenance book. I doubt it will be of any help as it's just a generic clean and lube type book.
I will study the machine and keep looking for info.
Joe
Ran the needle down to the BDC then turned the hand wheel till it rose up .093". At that point the hook is behind the needle at the eye, but the tip of the hook is aprox 2/32" past the needle.
So far I haven't found any instructions on how to re-time the hook that doesn't describe the replacement of it. The Singer 15 manuals are no help in this one.
I did sign up with that Yahoo Japanese machine group and did download that 5 part maintenance book. I doubt it will be of any help as it's just a generic clean and lube type book.
I will study the machine and keep looking for info.
Joe
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