Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop.....Come on in and sit a spell

Just remember the machine must be cleaned first with machine oil or baby oil or what ever is you favorite method. Suggestions for cleaning on this board are very good and you should pick the one that is right for you.

Skip

Originally Posted by vintagemotif

Janice,
Go to the tfsr.org site for tension information. http://www.tfsr.org/publications/tec...achine_manual/

click on tension mechanism, and I believe it is around page 5/6 that will give you the information on tension.

If you have the instruction manual for a Singer 15-91 (which I do) there is an excellent illustration and information on disassembling and reassembling the thread tension. I doubt the tension dial on your 301 is way different from the 15's. Hope that can be of help to you!

actually they 15 and the 301 are different in how they go on the machine.

Originally Posted by Glenn

Now that we cleared up what is japan on the old ladies, lets take it one step further. After the machines have been japaned the dacals were applied. Then a clear coat was applied to protect the decals. This clear coat is shellac(yes the same shellac used on the cabinets). Shellac when ages takes on a brown orange look that some people think is from smoking etc. It is not it is the aged shellac that is dry and rubbed off so looks shiny in spots and dull in others. So that is why you see brown areas and shiny areas after the machines is cleaned. This can be repaired and the shine will come back on the machine if you know a little about french polising which is nothing more than desolving the old shellac with new and making it bright again. It takes some time to do and practice. I have been doing this on furniture and machines for 40 + years. I hope this is not confussing to you but if you PM I will give detail instructions on how to do this. When you polish with such compounds as TR3 glazing compound you are just removing this shellac coating and making the finish look smooth again but the protection for the decals and the japan is gone. Wax will help protect the finish but will have to applied every six months or so. If you have any question please ask or PM I will be happy to answer any questions you may have. This is a method of restoration that anyone can do and it is easy.

Glen, please do a tutorial on this. I think I want to do it on my Singer FW recently acquired. The gold powder that covered the machine was not dust it was finish - I'm pretty sure. I wiped it off with a damp rag - no oil or soap - the paint and decals aren't too bad but it does need protection.

Originally Posted by vintagemotif

Thanks!! I was wondering if this was so. I just didn't feel like going on a google hunt!! You came to my rescue!!!

The 301 and the newer 99 will work

Originally Posted by miriam

Glen, please do a tutorial on this. I think I want to do it on my Singer FW recently acquired. The gold powder that covered the machine was not dust it was finish - I'm pretty sure. I wiped it off with a damp rag - no oil or soap - the paint and decals aren't too bad but it does need protection.

Ok, Miriam give me a day or two to work out the details. Oh Pat said we are going camping next week so it will be a week before I get the tut in the section. I am going fishing for the first time this season. I will try to get something on tomorrow in the evening if I have time. Say Hi to Phil Skip

Originally Posted by Sewfine

That is very thoughful of you. I just purchase my first vintage machine today from a seller on craigslist gulfport. It needs a new belt. No manual, bobbin or attachments to go with it. It is a vintage singer spartan. In the area of the throat plate is reads "Made in Great Britain." On the back by the belt it states "Made in Canada." V.110-120,A.O.B, A.C. & DC. What can you tell me about this machine?

Those are heavy little brutes - I fixed one up for my Granddaughters - I put a finger guard on it and they all lit up and did a happy dance. Those will sew about anything and I love piecing on mine. I souped mine up - I stuck a light on it. They take the class 66 bobbins, normal needles, get a good belt - not a stretch one I don't know what all Cathy has - but sew-classic has good stuff - the bobbins she has are good - the ones from the box store are only good for taking apart and making earrings. Manuals are free on line. http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals just put 99 in the box and it will send a free manual to print out