Embroidery Machines Lets Chat & Have Fun
#3141
Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 9
I have a Brother PE770 and just took it out of the box. Haven't used it yet but I have heard good things I also have a Brother LB6800 and have made many quilts with that machine and also used the embroidery module that came with it. I bought the PE770 because it had the larger hoops.
#3142
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Chula Vista CA
Posts: 7,402
My friend bought the PE770 and loves it. She got the low end embroidery program and now wished she bought the higher end. She has found her machine to be VERY user friendly and so much is available on YouTube.
#3144
Banned
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Victorian Sweatshop Forum
Posts: 4,096
That is the same process I use except I made my "hoop collars" out of that bumpy rubber shelf liner.
Cari
#3145
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 42
I have a Brother PE770 and just took it out of the box. Haven't used it yet but I have heard good things I also have a Brother LB6800 and have made many quilts with that machine and also used the embroidery module that came with it. I bought the PE770 because it had the larger hoops.
Lou
#3147
Anyone here has the Janome 350 e memory craft ? I am still relatively new to the embroidery,but my driving ( lol ) gets better and better.....I am wondering how to allian and make same design on both sides of a shirt or something , so that they will be really allian ??? Any tips?
#3148
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 42
I know what you mean about getting a machine with the largest hoop you can afford. Mine is 4" X 4" and I get frustrated when I find a design I really like and my hoop is too small. Maybe some day when money is not so tight I will be ale to trade this one in and upgrade.
Louise
Louise
#3149
Super Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,165
Anyone here has the Janome 350 e memory craft ? I am still relatively new to the embroidery,but my driving ( lol ) gets better and better.....I am wondering how to allian and make same design on both sides of a shirt or something , so that they will be really allian ??? Any tips?
The old Pfaffs came with templates for the hoops that showed the center. You lined up the center of the design with the center of the hoop. You could move the center of the hoop manually by using the built in software in the 2170 at least.
To make a template if you don't have one - cut a piece of paper or a substitute the size of the hoop. Put in a design and see where the needle centers. Mark that. Then get a piece of see through plastic - the stuff that some quilters cut templates for cutting from, and measure the center of the hoop both width and length so you can mark them permanently later. Then mark where the needle started the center on the paper on the plastic template which should also be cut to exactly fit in the hoop. Put a pin hole in the center of template.
Make sure it's lined up, then mark your hoop and the template for the exact length and width of the center. On the template - it should be cross hairs.
After it's marked, line up the center of the design with the center of the template. You can also position the template over where you want to embroider and mark the center using a disappearing purple marker. Most designs have the center marked.
This was done when all the machines only had 4x4 hoops. Some had figured out how to split the designs to do a whole jacket back. (Well before software would split designs in the 90's)
My first machine only did 4x4 and I started reading every piece of info I could find on multiple hooping.
Most used the template method.
Last edited by Weezy Rider; 12-02-2015 at 07:18 AM.
#3150
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Norfolk, VA
Posts: 5,397
I'll use a heavy tear away for the back of a towel if it's a dense design since it holds up better in the hoop but I always use wash away for the top.
I don't know if heavy starching will help with puckering. I figured out after many hours of playing around with my machines that most of my pucker issues were caused by hooping too tight and/or stabilizer issues. I stopped using tear away for most projects, went to a medium weight cut away and I don't hoop most items any more, just the stabilizer. Changing my process solved most of my issues, I rarely have puckering any more. There is so much information and tutorials out there on the net, you just have to figure out which process works best for you.
Cari
I don't know if heavy starching will help with puckering. I figured out after many hours of playing around with my machines that most of my pucker issues were caused by hooping too tight and/or stabilizer issues. I stopped using tear away for most projects, went to a medium weight cut away and I don't hoop most items any more, just the stabilizer. Changing my process solved most of my issues, I rarely have puckering any more. There is so much information and tutorials out there on the net, you just have to figure out which process works best for you.
Cari
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