topstitch

I do not measure my borders but do disengage my walking foot so there is just a slight drag on the top fabric and sew away. I have never had a single problem though the local quilt police have a cow.

quiltinghere

Here's my opinion

FIRST - blocks (and sashings) within quilt should be 'square' (they can be rectangles but they need to be 'square'). If you build a house and each 2x4 is 1/4" off the house will be crooked like a cartoon!

SECOND - the quilt top (and sashings) should be square. If your seam allowance is consistent, this should not be a problem. Check as you go!

THIRD - measure across the quilt in 3 places - average it out and cut borders to that measurement. Fold in half, pin to center of quilt edge, pin ends, pin pin pin - ease in/out the rest, sew. Repeat for the opposite sides of quilt.

Measuring is a great way to make sure your quilt borders will lay flat.

Question: If a person sews a strip of fabric to the sides of the quilt and the quilt is not square to start with (let's say 1/2" longer on one side than the other and the top and bottom are 3/4" off square), how do you end up with a square quilt with equal width borders? Are your quilts lopsided?

Nan

judi_lynne

Well, I square up my quilt as best I can (not always perfectly ), add up my 4 dimensions, make my binding (I double-fold). I make it about 8-10" longer than I need; I put a starting pin on my quilt, then I start to sew the binding on about 6" after that pin, at each corner, I stop sewing 1/4" from end, fold my fabric for the mitred corner, start to sew the next side, etc. until I am on my last side. I stop sewing the binding on about 6-7" from the starting pin. I lay my binding along the edge until it is exactly 2-1/2" PAST the starting pin. Note: This measurement needs to be the width of the fabric you are using for your binding. If you are using 2" binding, then you would go exactly 2" past the starting pin. I cut the excess binding off. At that point, you now join the two ends together as if you were sewing two pieces of material together to lengthen your binding. If you do this correctly, your binding will be exactly what you need it to be. Then you go back and start sewing from your stopping point. Comes out perfectly every time! Someone on this board was kind enough to send me instructions on this almost two years ago I think and I have been doing my bindings like this ever since. And you will STILL have the waves if your quilt is way off kilt. That is why I try to square them up.

Added note: I should explain the distance from the pin and starting point AND the stopping point is just to give you enough play in the binding so you can turn the fabrics right sides together to make your closing seam. So these are not written in stone. I just happen to need more room lol

JuneCleaver

Square is the idea for measuring sides and middle and then averaging. Quilts are a lot of work, so I try to keep them as square as possible.