redmadder

I find 3.5 inches works best. Usually I run a long zigzag stitch around the edge to keep it all together. Master that iron!

yetta

ditto... I am hooked on sharon schamblers binding tute on you tube.....

omaluvs2quilt

Sharon Schamber's method for me too, it makes beautiful bindings. Different battings may require different size bindings. If I'm using a different batting, I usually make a test strip and try it out to make sure it'll work. On my "Quilter's Dream_Select" I usually use 2.5", heavily starched & pressed in half, and sew with my walking foot at almost 3/8". Get an awesome binding every time!

Buckeye Rose

there are many ways to bind a quilt....I use a 2.5" strip, fold in half and press with raw edges together....stitch to the backside of the quilt....fold to front side and just cover the stitch line (using glue stick and iron)....I machine stitch down, using whatever deorative stitch looks good....my quilts are for using and I don't feel that handsewing is strong enough to deal with 6 year old boys! LOL

quiltmom04

Do you account for how wide the binding is and add additional batting and backing around the edge ? I think most quilt patterns I've used have assumed a 1/4" seam to attach the binding, where if you had a larger seam, to account for a wider binding and to be sure your binding is "full", it would stitch over some of the design along the edges.

kcmoquilter

Hi tngal22-Although I found the instructions I usually follow in a book from the local library, the instructions in the following link are pretty much the same. Good luck and patience!

http://www.ehow.com/how_2074599_bind-quilt.html

solstice3

2.5" strips, folded in half and pressed. (I am not a lover of the iron either BUT have learned it has its redeeming qualities when sewing).

Holice

My thoughts.
The width of your cut binding (to be folded) relates directly with the size of your seam allowance. A "rule" we used back in the olden days is the cut binding should be 6 times the width of your seam. Now this needs adjustments to accommodate the folds in the binding and the depth of your betting. But this is a start. Also, all bindings need not be calculated on the 1/4" seam allowance. That seam allowance is only necessary if you are binding to the edge of patchwork and have only 1/4" along the edge AND/OR you specifically want a 1/4" finished binding. Most all books and instruction tell us to cut 2 1/2" and sew 1/4" without discussing other options.
If you are binding a quilt that has borders, you don't need to stay with the 1/4" seam and binding unless you just want that size. I use a 3/8" seam. I started cutting at 2 1/2" but found that was a bit too wide on the back for me so I reduced it 2 1/4" and the binding folded to the back and fit better. You can certainly leave more on the back than the front. It should be even on the back.
My basic rules for good bindings are:
Even width with consistent seam all the way to the end.
Binding is full (for looks and stability)
Well mitred Corners
Small even stitches if doing by hand (for stability)
Fussy Cut. The means that if you use an even pattern on the fabric that you cut with the pattern and not grain line so the pattern will be straight in the binding.

Bias ginding is necessary for good rounded and curved edges but not necessary if edge is straight. This is a personal preference.
I cut bindings on the width of the fabric unless the pattern goes up and down. Width cutting gives a bit of stretch when applying.
And remember that all the different methods are those the individual has found easy for him or her. The inventions of special "tools" is also what the individual has found useful in making good bindings. These techniques are for use to try and adapt if we also find them useful in doing the quality bindings we want.

I have found that the biggest harm to my bindings is going too fast. Some parts of quiltmaking can't be rushed.

Rumbols

I have used any where from 2" to 3" depending on the effect I want on my quilt. I follow Sharon Schambers method where she starches, presses in half, and then glue bastes to the quilt top. Now one thing I do to the quilt top is square up and then zig-zag the outer edge to keep the edges together - top, batting, and backing. I am always checking to make sure all three are in line at the edge before putting my binding on. Hope this helps.

caspharm

My go-to binding size is 2.5" and I use the Simplicity Bias maker with the 1.25" quilt binding tip. I tend to make large quilts so it's faster than the iron.

I have done machine binding on some, including the baby one with minkee, and hand sewn on others.