Complaint About Me
#41
Just get in the zone and look at the overall area, the closer you stare at the needle the easier it is to OVERSTEER, just like driving. Focus on a spot in front of the needle where you feed the fabric in and let the fabric SLIDE under your fingers, and the presser foot do the work of pulling in the fabric. Try to not let the fabric pull your hands towards the back of the machine, you will then be in control and able to guide the fabric straight with very minute adjustments. Been sewing over 60 years and it just gets to be second nature.
#42
Originally Posted by ktbb
staring at the needle or even at a foot close to the needle tends to result in crooked lines.....try marking the base of the machine a couple of inches ahead of your needle and use that as your guide for the edge of your fabric and see if it helps...If us use that as your primary check, you can spot check periodically to see that the edge of the fabric hear the needle is where you want it to be.
Think of driving down the road and focusing on a spot just ahead of your hood...you end up (usually) over compensating and the car moves back and forth a lot, even tho it may be small moves. If you focus on the road several yards ahead of the car, your turns are less jerky, the ride is smoother, and the path of the car is a straighter line.
Think of driving down the road and focusing on a spot just ahead of your hood...you end up (usually) over compensating and the car moves back and forth a lot, even tho it may be small moves. If you focus on the road several yards ahead of the car, your turns are less jerky, the ride is smoother, and the path of the car is a straighter line.
#43
Originally Posted by wishiwerequilting
I would like to add just a few suggestions to the advice given so far (all excellent suggestions!)
1. Before you cut, spray starch your fabrics. I like MaryEllen's Best Press, but you may use any spray starch you like, even if you make your own solution. Just use it.
Try to make your fabrics feel like the weight of construction paper, and then cut them. That's how stiff they should be. I know it sounds like a lot, but I learned that suggestion from Debra Wagner, who is an award winning quilter, and she is right. So much easier to cut the fabrics, and to stack them together and piece.
2. If you feel like you need to draw a seam line (probably not necessary, but if you need "training wheels" until you get the feel of things, ok), place your fabric on a sandpaper covered mat, cardboard, whatever, and then draw lightly with a fine mechanical pencil so as not to stretch the fabrics out of shape.
3. I have used this technique when teaching kids to sew, and some adults can benefit from it as well....
when you are getting ready to place your fabric pieces Right Sides Together (RST), put a tiny drop of elmers school glue (or applique glue...whatever you have) in the seam allowance.
When i say tiny, i mean tiny...like the size of a quilt pin head, or bead.
Do it in a few places along the seam allowance of the right side of one of the fabrics. Then put your next piece of fabric on top to make your little fabric sandwich that needs to be sewn RST. Heat set the glue by pressing the fabrics with your iron. This eliminates the need for any pins.
You can assembly line sew these pieces - just stand at your ironing mat for a bit and glue and heat set a whole bunch, then feed them into the machine and cut threads after they come out the other side of your needle - typical "chain piecing".
You should have accurate 1/4" seams, and the pieces should be exactly one on top of the other with edges aligned.
4. Lastly, it's my opinion...(i'm not a machine tech, so i could be wrong, but i swear this is the case) that some machines "kick" the fabrics out of alignment. It's as if the feed dogs are mis-aligned. I can sew on some of my students machines and i can't sew straight either, then sit down at my machine and i am fine. sometimes it is not the sewer but the machine. if all else fails, get yours checked out, and/or try sewing on some other machines to see if there is a difference.
Hope this helps. Love all the suggestions here!!
1. Before you cut, spray starch your fabrics. I like MaryEllen's Best Press, but you may use any spray starch you like, even if you make your own solution. Just use it.
Try to make your fabrics feel like the weight of construction paper, and then cut them. That's how stiff they should be. I know it sounds like a lot, but I learned that suggestion from Debra Wagner, who is an award winning quilter, and she is right. So much easier to cut the fabrics, and to stack them together and piece.
2. If you feel like you need to draw a seam line (probably not necessary, but if you need "training wheels" until you get the feel of things, ok), place your fabric on a sandpaper covered mat, cardboard, whatever, and then draw lightly with a fine mechanical pencil so as not to stretch the fabrics out of shape.
3. I have used this technique when teaching kids to sew, and some adults can benefit from it as well....
when you are getting ready to place your fabric pieces Right Sides Together (RST), put a tiny drop of elmers school glue (or applique glue...whatever you have) in the seam allowance.
When i say tiny, i mean tiny...like the size of a quilt pin head, or bead.
Do it in a few places along the seam allowance of the right side of one of the fabrics. Then put your next piece of fabric on top to make your little fabric sandwich that needs to be sewn RST. Heat set the glue by pressing the fabrics with your iron. This eliminates the need for any pins.
You can assembly line sew these pieces - just stand at your ironing mat for a bit and glue and heat set a whole bunch, then feed them into the machine and cut threads after they come out the other side of your needle - typical "chain piecing".
You should have accurate 1/4" seams, and the pieces should be exactly one on top of the other with edges aligned.
4. Lastly, it's my opinion...(i'm not a machine tech, so i could be wrong, but i swear this is the case) that some machines "kick" the fabrics out of alignment. It's as if the feed dogs are mis-aligned. I can sew on some of my students machines and i can't sew straight either, then sit down at my machine and i am fine. sometimes it is not the sewer but the machine. if all else fails, get yours checked out, and/or try sewing on some other machines to see if there is a difference.
Hope this helps. Love all the suggestions here!!
#45
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 210
I put a strip of double sided scotch mounting tape - t's about 1/2 wide and probably 1/8 inch or bit more high. I think it's the height that helps me keep that fabric in a straight line.
t's a great guide for the fabric BEFORE it hits the presser foot, and you can cut it however length you want it, and it removes with no residue on your machine. And it's cheap.
Karen
t's a great guide for the fabric BEFORE it hits the presser foot, and you can cut it however length you want it, and it removes with no residue on your machine. And it's cheap.
Karen
#46
Super Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: West New York, New Jersey
Posts: 1,673
Hello winia, my friend of many years -- I knew for sure it was you when I saw the Sewline reference.
You've gotten some good tips here which we'll be using too. ("wishiwerequilting" is right; sometimes the machine will slightly move the fabric as you start sewing) I know I don't sit straight at my machine but I will from now on. And don't be too hard on yourself!!!
See you soon!!!
You've gotten some good tips here which we'll be using too. ("wishiwerequilting" is right; sometimes the machine will slightly move the fabric as you start sewing) I know I don't sit straight at my machine but I will from now on. And don't be too hard on yourself!!!
See you soon!!!
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: michigan
Posts: 630
my dear grandmother was a seamstress, and my first lesson from her was on dish towels.... right? we always sewed our own ... now the gals love to get hold of a feedsack towel.....but anyway, never watch your neeedle. set you sights on the proper width for your scant 1/4 inch seam, and dont' drive fast like you hate the job....LOL
Jacie
Jacie
#49
Power Poster
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 15,368
At our quilt guild, they taught us to use the blue painters masking tape as it stands out better. Also to use several layers on top of each other so the material cannot go past the 1/4" measurement. It has really helped me.
#50
Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 79
I use to work at a garment factory and to keep the seams straight we used a guide next to the pressure foot or 1/4' away for seam, this was usally a piece of cardboard or tape, some machines even have a metal guide that you can screw in to use.
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12-18-2012 08:26 AM