How do I keep the point on my Ohio star after border is on?
#21
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
okay, well the day is almost over and I still can't get any seam allowance left on my squares. If I don't block them up in a perfect square with 2 sides long and 2 shorter, then I have a seam allowance. I forgot about my June Taylor half square triangle and quarter square triangle ruler until later tonight, so I got that out and tried, but still don't have any seam allowance if I square them into a perfect square. I don't even see a seam allowance when I am finished sewing, only if I square up 2 sides different from each other do I get any kind of a seam allowance, and I know that's not right. *sigh* I am giving up for the night. Thank you all again for all you help, I don't know why I can't seem to "get it" Here is one of my latest squares with again no 1/4" seams. This has already been squared, but the hourglass shapes went clear to the edge even before I squared it. [ATTACH=CONFIG]430329[/ATTACH]
#23
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
That's what I am thinking too, but before squaring the block looks almost identical to this with the hourglass shape going edge to edge, just a slightly wonky square. The pic of one of them not squared is on page 1 with a different fabric. It seems to me it might be in the squaring too, but I even tried my June Tailor ruler for hst and qst. I got a nice square, but no seams LoL
Last edited by BirdyFeathers; 08-14-2013 at 05:58 PM.
#24
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,559
This block is perfectly fine, there is nothing wrong with it as long as it's square. Now you need to make 3 more just like it, all the same size. Cut your other blocks all the same size, all square. When you sew these hourglass blocks to the solid corner blocks, you will see the seam allowance. The points will not go all the way up to the corners.
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
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This block is perfectly fine, there is nothing wrong with it as long as it's square. Now you need to make 3 more just like it, all the same size. Cut your other blocks all the same size, all square. When you sew these hourglass blocks to the solid corner blocks, you will see the seam allowance. The points will not go all the way up to the corners.
Thank you everyone for all your patience and helpful info!!!! I appreciate all of it.
Last edited by BirdyFeathers; 08-14-2013 at 06:24 PM.
#26
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pacific NW
Posts: 9,559
Exactly! I was busy making a sample to illustrate it for you.
Here are the two segments in question. They're both squared and are exactly the same size.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430338[/ATTACH]
After sewing together, you can see that the point doesn't go all the way to the corner. This will be your seam allowance when you sew a border to the top.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430339[/ATTACH]
An earlier poster had recommended a different method for assembling QSTs (Quarter-square triangles, which is what these are). I second that recommendation. When you sew triangles, you are dealing with lots and lots of bias edges. Using this method shown here will help minimize distortions caused by handling and pressing those bias edges. Another tip for bias edges is to starch your fabric before you cut.
Here are the two segments in question. They're both squared and are exactly the same size.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430338[/ATTACH]
After sewing together, you can see that the point doesn't go all the way to the corner. This will be your seam allowance when you sew a border to the top.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430339[/ATTACH]
An earlier poster had recommended a different method for assembling QSTs (Quarter-square triangles, which is what these are). I second that recommendation. When you sew triangles, you are dealing with lots and lots of bias edges. Using this method shown here will help minimize distortions caused by handling and pressing those bias edges. Another tip for bias edges is to starch your fabric before you cut.
#27
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 4,391
Just making it square won't do it. It has to be the "correct size" square. The hour glass square must be exactly the same size as the plain square, with the seams going corner to corner. When you trim, be sure the diagonal line on the ruler is on the seam line, both ways. Then when you sew the two together, you will get what Peggi showed. Now the diagonal seams don't go to the corner any more. This is correct. That is your seam allowance for the next seam.
Hope you can understand this and hope it helps.
Hope you can understand this and hope it helps.
#28
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Exactly! I was busy making a sample to illustrate it for you.
Here are the two segments in question. They're both squared and are exactly the same size.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430338[/ATTACH]
After sewing together, you can see that the point doesn't go all the way to the corner. This will be your seam allowance when you sew a border to the top.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430339[/ATTACH]
An earlier poster had recommended a different method for assembling QSTs (Quarter-square triangles, which is what these are). I second that recommendation. When you sew triangles, you are dealing with lots and lots of bias edges. Using this method shown here will help minimize distortions caused by handling and pressing those bias edges. Another tip for bias edges is to starch your fabric before you cut.
Here are the two segments in question. They're both squared and are exactly the same size.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430338[/ATTACH]
After sewing together, you can see that the point doesn't go all the way to the corner. This will be your seam allowance when you sew a border to the top.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]430339[/ATTACH]
An earlier poster had recommended a different method for assembling QSTs (Quarter-square triangles, which is what these are). I second that recommendation. When you sew triangles, you are dealing with lots and lots of bias edges. Using this method shown here will help minimize distortions caused by handling and pressing those bias edges. Another tip for bias edges is to starch your fabric before you cut.
Last edited by BirdyFeathers; 08-15-2013 at 05:59 AM.
#29
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Mavita,
Yes, thank you. My June Tailor ruler has these crossing diagonal lines going in both directions, so that will make it easier for me to make sure the hour glass is the same size as the plain. Thank you so much again for all your help! I appreciate it!
Yes, thank you. My June Tailor ruler has these crossing diagonal lines going in both directions, so that will make it easier for me to make sure the hour glass is the same size as the plain. Thank you so much again for all your help! I appreciate it!
#30
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 82
Hello!! I just wanted to say a big thank you to everyone here who took the time to reply and to help me to understand this block! It wasn't any easy task LOL Thank you again bearisgray and Peggi for the wonderful illustrations and time to get them together. Visuals are always a big help for me. And thank you for all the wonderful pms. I really did appreciate everyone's help and patience! Have a great day!!!
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