Just wondering how many glue baste their piecing?
07-10-2018, 05:11 AM
#31
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Florida
Posts: 6,139
If you look in the paint section of the craft store, there are white plastic tips that fit onto the elmers bottles to narrow the nozzle. I have glued hard y seams but nothing else. I know people who go for show perfection glue them all.
07-10-2018, 05:13 AM
#32
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Ohio
Posts: 215
I use elmers washable school glue to baste my sandwiched quilts, even king size, FMQ on a domestic, never have a problem sewing through the glued layers. Then when finished, wash the quilt. Works great, no more pinning or using caustic sprays.
07-10-2018, 05:47 AM
#33
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Grass Lake, MI and Bradenton, FL
Posts: 785
I very rarely do it. I would rather rip the seam half a dozen times than fool with trying to get it glued just right and then dried and then sewn, only to find out, I didn't have it matched up perfectly. As you can guess, I have a love/hate relationship with glue. I have been know to sew a horizontal tacking seam to hold a point in a specific place to get it sewn perfectly. If you leave the ends about an inch long, they are very easy to pull out.
07-10-2018, 06:42 AM
#34
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Gilbert, AZ
Posts: 985
When I pin I always manage to impale myself multiple times, so I love glue! Also keeps seams from shifting. I pin at intersections when sewing blocks or rows together. I use the end of the plastic things that come from garment tags to seal my tip. That's what came with mine when I bought them.
07-10-2018, 08:27 AM
#35
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 981
I suppose if I were doing a show quilt or an intricate pieced wall hanging I would glue baste but for regular bed quilts I just will not take the time. I am very satisfied with my piecing skills and although not "perfect" it is good enough for me. I just have a hard time justifying the amount of time involved. I have too many quilts to make and as they say, "ain't got time for that".
07-10-2018, 02:37 PM
#36
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 18
I used it a lot when I was doing QAYG. Haven't used it for piecing, but makes sense to use it on critical points or intersections, so I may go back to it. I have the metal applicator tip on an Elmer's glue bottle. It gets clogged with dried glue and I have to spend time cleaning it every time. Is an applique pin different than a regular pin? Putting a regular pin in the applicator tip ends up rusted. Any one else have any clever ideas to "close" the applicator tip and avoid drying?
07-10-2018, 02:47 PM
#37
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Mableton, GA
Posts: 11,688
I used it a lot when I was doing QAYG. Haven't used it for piecing, but makes sense to use it on critical points or intersections, so I may go back to it. I have the metal applicator tip on an Elmer's glue bottle. It gets clogged with dried glue and I have to spend time cleaning it every time. Is an applique pin different than a regular pin? Putting a regular pin in the applicator tip ends up rusted. Any one else have any clever ideas to "close" the applicator tip and avoid drying?
07-12-2018, 02:40 AM
#38
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: western NY formerly MN, FL, NC, SC
Posts: 51,430
Check your local hardware store for "Caulk Backer Rod." Basically a foam noodle that can be cut into half-inch sections to be used as a cheap version of PinMoors. I put one over the applicator tip and, just 'cause, put a little glue inside to dry and block any potential airflow. I used a needle/thread to make a tie to go around the glue bottle so the cover doesn't get lost.[ATTACH=CONFIG]597647[/ATTACH]
07-13-2018, 04:53 PM
#39
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Upstate New York
Posts: 1,231
I also use a glue stick for machine applique, I can't stand to cut an oversized piece of fabric, only to have to trim a lot of it away after I sew down the outline..with a glue stick I can get away with using a much smaller piece of fabric.
07-14-2018, 06:28 AM
#40
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Southern USA
Posts: 17,908
I very rarely do it. I would rather rip the seam half a dozen times than fool with trying to get it glued just right and then dried and then sewn, only to find out, I didn't have it matched up perfectly. As you can guess, I have a love/hate relationship with glue. I have been know to sew a horizontal tacking seam to hold a point in a specific place to get it sewn perfectly. If you leave the ends about an inch long, they are very easy to pull out.
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