Redwork question
03-16-2013, 03:53 AM
#32
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Brick, NJ
Posts: 819
I could have written this post. Having embroidered as a child, never with backing, it didn't occur to me to have a second layer to embroider through (and the red work pattern didn't suggest it). Hmmm. Watching these recommendations!
03-16-2013, 05:15 AM
#33
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Location: Maine-ly Florida
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03-16-2013, 05:19 AM
#34
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Maine-ly Florida
Posts: 3,926
I'm a little late to the game but here is my two cents. I am working on Winter Wonderland by Crabapple Hill at the moment. I went with muslin for the backing and basted it on just as others have mentioned. However, I have a very talented and prolific quilting friend and she made a smallish snowmen wallhanging. She used something called Sticky Fabri-Solvy which is "printable". She printed her pattern on the solvy, stuck that to her fabric, then stitched through it all. Afterwards, she rinsed the slovy off and was left with just the fabric piece. It turned out great. I did not see any knots or long threads where she carry them over. If I were to start a new piece, this is what I would use now too. Take that all for what it's worth.
03-16-2013, 05:30 AM
#35
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 46
This is my first time doing redwork though I have done little bits of hand embroidery here and there in the past before. My question is this, the pattern calls for Pellon fusible (very light weight) but doesn't say which one. Are they talking about Wonder Under? I've used Wonder Under before.
I have HeatnBond Lite Iron on adhesive by Therm O Web . It was given to me and I've never used it but from the directions it sounds like it might work. I don't have much extra fabric so before I iron anything on to it I would really like to make sure I'm going to be able to hand stitch through it.
Any help would be truly appreciated!! Kelly
I have HeatnBond Lite Iron on adhesive by Therm O Web . It was given to me and I've never used it but from the directions it sounds like it might work. I don't have much extra fabric so before I iron anything on to it I would really like to make sure I'm going to be able to hand stitch through it.
Any help would be truly appreciated!! Kelly
03-16-2013, 05:30 AM
#36
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 113
I teach hand embroidery at our local quilt store in Clinton, Wi. and the absolute best thing to use is pellon SF101. It is a fusible apparel interfacing that looks like a fine muslin when iron onto the fabric. Don't iron it on until after you have traced the embroidery design. This stuff doesn't gum up the needle or offer any resistance. It hides all those little threads. Our shop carries it, but I originally found it at JoAnn's and bought a whole bolt after using it for a project. I always stress that the embroidery fabric have a high thread count--makes it easier to embroider. The best thread is sulky 12 weight which is available on large and now smaller spools. It looks wonderful, doesn't shred or separate and doesn't knot up as much as dmc. I used one large spool to do all the embroidery on the Winter Wonderland Quilt, so it goes a long way. The best needle (it is the only one I've found that is tapered from the tip to the eye) is from Scarlet Today (www.redworkplus.com) She also has cute hand embroidery patterns on her website. I think crabapplehill also sells those needles. When looking for patterns check out coloring pages on the internet--just google a subject and you can spend hours cruising through getting inspired. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to help.
03-16-2013, 07:12 AM
#37
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: British Columbia
Posts: 8,156
dottiequilts, what pen are you using to trace your redwork design with? I have used a pigma pen & then it's okay to iron after it's drawn, but if a person is using a wash away pen you wouldn't want to iron the fusible onto the back after you had traced your design, or it would be heat set, right?
03-16-2013, 07:17 AM
#38
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 2,876
Use the lightest available where you shop. I used it on this quilt for granddaughter but as you can see I did not stick with the redwork, LOIL Two shades of pink with green. Sorry, one more edit - this is a Jack Dempsey Needle Art, it is pre-printed and very easy to do.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]402018[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]402019[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]402018[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]402019[/ATTACH]
Last edited by AZ Jane; 03-16-2013 at 07:24 AM.
03-16-2013, 07:24 AM
#39
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 113
I always use a pigma pen (with the finest tip they make) and try to match the ink to the thread I'm using for embroidery. If using several colors of thread, use a light brown ink. I never recommend using a wash away pen--tried it once early on and it was a mess and created a kind of heart stopping moment when I saw the color running all over my beautiful embroidery.
03-16-2013, 07:36 AM
#40
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Illinois
Posts: 9,018
well, thanks to all, I have learned something new today already and it is only about 10:30am. I have hand embroidered, not very well, but tried---did a redwork quilt and am now working-more off than on! on a scrappy quilt that will have various hand embroidered flower baskets in various colors along with the scrappy fabric....Anyway, I have never heard of backing embroidery work.......My redwork is fine on the muslin I did it on, but if I have to travel with thread, I sort of wind it into whatever is there to wherever I have to go and I do knot but very tiny. I used to love to do cross stitch and there the backs were almost reverse of fronts so I guess that is where I get that practice. But, if I ever do another project, I certainly will use the softest fusible non woven interfacing I can find for backing.....thanks, for the hint.
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