Newbies challenge
11-09-2010, 08:15 AM
#1252
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
Originally Posted by homecaregiver
Oh boy is there a "momma" out there in quilt land that would like to adopt me. I want to learn to machine quilt. No Long arm but on my home sewing machine. I have a Bernina 830.
Pat (homecaregiver)
Pat (homecaregiver)
Here is a link, I loved these items as I was learning, even took a class where they used these panels and book to teach us.
http://www.ericas.com/quilting/tools/skillbuilder.htm
I bought the DVD and there are additional patterns you can print off and stitch on the paper to learn, or trace onto fabric (layer so you get used to the batting & how it will move, just a sample size to work / learn from). Then practice first. Then I made a really simple plain blocks in a design quilt, and I'll probably give this to the dog, as I used it to 'learn' on, to practice all types of designs before I attemped a nicer quilt. Then I made a couple baby doll blankets for my GD, and practiced how I'd like to make a full quilt look with this simple dresdon plate design, and I also tested quilt marking systems to see what I liked best.
I hope this helps.
I'm not going to "adopt" as I feel I'm a beginner myself to machine quilting. Just sharing how I'm learning too.
11-09-2010, 09:24 PM
#1253
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 31
Hi - I am about to complete a beginning quilting class and could REALLY use a mentor! I am interested in hand piecing, but not certain about hand quilting, since my one effort at hand quilting (as per teacher's instructions) was a disaster. Would love to have an on line teacher.
regards, Snipper 74
regards, Snipper 74
11-11-2010, 08:19 PM
#1254
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 724
Originally Posted by butterjoy
Originally Posted by amma
I would love to help someone, however mitre's and FMQ are my two weaker links :wink: and I do not handquilt...
I do love to paper piece, as well as piece and applique :D:D:D
I do love to paper piece, as well as piece and applique :D:D:D
11-13-2010, 04:00 PM
#1257
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
Originally Posted by nonnageri
Up for adoption. I am a newbee and love to sew but haven't quilted yet. My son passed away 4 years ago and I would like to make a memory quilt from his clothing but have no idea where to begin. I would be grateful for any help.
11-14-2010, 09:12 PM
#1259
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Dayton, TN. but hometown is Rockford IL.
Posts: 1,407
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
There are different quilting stitching... and we think "stiple" means the
squiggly small lines that won't touch each other.
Micro Stipple is no open space more than 1/4"
Stipple is no more than 1/2" space
Background is 1" space between stitching
Allover is 2" space
Edge to Edge (pantos) is 3-4" space
Meander is 6-8" space (should be used for Charity quilts)
Crap is loose stitching like a store bought bed comforter.
If your a long arm quilter, and someone asks you to practice on their quilt...
you don't practice, it's all work the same.
Explain these stitches, and have mini samples of these on actual variety of
blocks and plain fabric, so they can see the difference and how the stitching
would flow in a block (make a sample of asst. most common blocks, log cabin,
flying geese, 9 patch, etc).
Have a contract signed with your quilt owner, so she has picked the type of
quilting she wants, and charge accordingly...make sure she knows the charges you
placed to each type of stitch work (size).
Some charge by square inch, most common is 1-1/2 cents/sqin, and some charge by
the hour, and literally will keep track of each 15 minutes or hour they have
worked. If your hiring, ask if they keep track on a tablet the time they work
on the quilt. You do not pay/get paid, for "thinking" time of what to do, but
actual working/stitching time.
Make sure YOUR quilt when taking to a long arm quilter, is "fixed".
Clip all loose threads front AND back. Square up each block before you sew them
together, and in stages of your quilt, and sashing & borders kept even/squared
up. Pin borders on from middle to ends (NEVER end to end). And press your
seams so they do not bunch up. If you are finished, and you find the backside
has bunched seams, repress WITH STARCH to change the direction of seams. Set
seams before pressing to one direction or another, run the iron down the stitch
line, then fold the seam over and press again. STARCH IS GOOD.
Quilters will charge to pre-press, loading time avg. 1 hr putting your quilt on
the machine, the more problems it has, the longer.
Custom work (fancy stippling, feathers, details) COSTS! Either hire for edge to
edge or pantos work, or be prepared to pay dearly for detailed work. Long arm
quilters, your time is money, if you are uncomfortable, just say NO.
Ladies, a 60"x60" quilt, when you add a 10" border, you've doubled the square
inches of your quilt, expect to double the price also.
Quilters, you can do 3x(60"x60") quilts in the same time as 1(100"x100"king)
quilt.
When your quilting, your own or professionally, divide your quilt into those
folded quilt zones, and set goal/accomplish/repeat, and you'll finish in a
timely manner. Why practice on a quilt you've spend precious time and money on
quality fabric, to piece this lovely top.... practice on plain fabric folded
into quiltable zones, or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.
squiggly small lines that won't touch each other.
Micro Stipple is no open space more than 1/4"
Stipple is no more than 1/2" space
Background is 1" space between stitching
Allover is 2" space
Edge to Edge (pantos) is 3-4" space
Meander is 6-8" space (should be used for Charity quilts)
Crap is loose stitching like a store bought bed comforter.
If your a long arm quilter, and someone asks you to practice on their quilt...
you don't practice, it's all work the same.
Explain these stitches, and have mini samples of these on actual variety of
blocks and plain fabric, so they can see the difference and how the stitching
would flow in a block (make a sample of asst. most common blocks, log cabin,
flying geese, 9 patch, etc).
Have a contract signed with your quilt owner, so she has picked the type of
quilting she wants, and charge accordingly...make sure she knows the charges you
placed to each type of stitch work (size).
Some charge by square inch, most common is 1-1/2 cents/sqin, and some charge by
the hour, and literally will keep track of each 15 minutes or hour they have
worked. If your hiring, ask if they keep track on a tablet the time they work
on the quilt. You do not pay/get paid, for "thinking" time of what to do, but
actual working/stitching time.
Make sure YOUR quilt when taking to a long arm quilter, is "fixed".
Clip all loose threads front AND back. Square up each block before you sew them
together, and in stages of your quilt, and sashing & borders kept even/squared
up. Pin borders on from middle to ends (NEVER end to end). And press your
seams so they do not bunch up. If you are finished, and you find the backside
has bunched seams, repress WITH STARCH to change the direction of seams. Set
seams before pressing to one direction or another, run the iron down the stitch
line, then fold the seam over and press again. STARCH IS GOOD.
Quilters will charge to pre-press, loading time avg. 1 hr putting your quilt on
the machine, the more problems it has, the longer.
Custom work (fancy stippling, feathers, details) COSTS! Either hire for edge to
edge or pantos work, or be prepared to pay dearly for detailed work. Long arm
quilters, your time is money, if you are uncomfortable, just say NO.
Ladies, a 60"x60" quilt, when you add a 10" border, you've doubled the square
inches of your quilt, expect to double the price also.
Quilters, you can do 3x(60"x60") quilts in the same time as 1(100"x100"king)
quilt.
When your quilting, your own or professionally, divide your quilt into those
folded quilt zones, and set goal/accomplish/repeat, and you'll finish in a
timely manner. Why practice on a quilt you've spend precious time and money on
quality fabric, to piece this lovely top.... practice on plain fabric folded
into quiltable zones, or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.
All the info I've seen that you've submitted has helped me in one way or another. Thank you so much for all you add. K. :lol: :thumbup: :lol:
11-14-2010, 09:27 PM
#1260
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Washburn, North Dakota
Posts: 257
Originally Posted by Momma_K
Originally Posted by stevendebbie25
There are different quilting stitching... and we think "stiple" means the
squiggly small lines that won't touch each other.
Micro Stipple is no open space more than 1/4"
Stipple is no more than 1/2" space
Background is 1" space between stitching
Allover is 2" space
Edge to Edge (pantos) is 3-4" space
Meander is 6-8" space (should be used for Charity quilts)
Crap is loose stitching like a store bought bed comforter.
If your a long arm quilter, and someone asks you to practice on their quilt...
you don't practice, it's all work the same.
Explain these stitches, and have mini samples of these on actual variety of
blocks and plain fabric, so they can see the difference and how the stitching
would flow in a block (make a sample of asst. most common blocks, log cabin,
flying geese, 9 patch, etc).
Have a contract signed with your quilt owner, so she has picked the type of
quilting she wants, and charge accordingly...make sure she knows the charges you
placed to each type of stitch work (size).
Some charge by square inch, most common is 1-1/2 cents/sqin, and some charge by
the hour, and literally will keep track of each 15 minutes or hour they have
worked. If your hiring, ask if they keep track on a tablet the time they work
on the quilt. You do not pay/get paid, for "thinking" time of what to do, but
actual working/stitching time.
Make sure YOUR quilt when taking to a long arm quilter, is "fixed".
Clip all loose threads front AND back. Square up each block before you sew them
together, and in stages of your quilt, and sashing & borders kept even/squared
up. Pin borders on from middle to ends (NEVER end to end). And press your
seams so they do not bunch up. If you are finished, and you find the backside
has bunched seams, repress WITH STARCH to change the direction of seams. Set
seams before pressing to one direction or another, run the iron down the stitch
line, then fold the seam over and press again. STARCH IS GOOD.
Quilters will charge to pre-press, loading time avg. 1 hr putting your quilt on
the machine, the more problems it has, the longer.
Custom work (fancy stippling, feathers, details) COSTS! Either hire for edge to
edge or pantos work, or be prepared to pay dearly for detailed work. Long arm
quilters, your time is money, if you are uncomfortable, just say NO.
Ladies, a 60"x60" quilt, when you add a 10" border, you've doubled the square
inches of your quilt, expect to double the price also.
Quilters, you can do 3x(60"x60") quilts in the same time as 1(100"x100"king)
quilt.
When your quilting, your own or professionally, divide your quilt into those
folded quilt zones, and set goal/accomplish/repeat, and you'll finish in a
timely manner. Why practice on a quilt you've spend precious time and money on
quality fabric, to piece this lovely top.... practice on plain fabric folded
into quiltable zones, or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.
squiggly small lines that won't touch each other.
Micro Stipple is no open space more than 1/4"
Stipple is no more than 1/2" space
Background is 1" space between stitching
Allover is 2" space
Edge to Edge (pantos) is 3-4" space
Meander is 6-8" space (should be used for Charity quilts)
Crap is loose stitching like a store bought bed comforter.
If your a long arm quilter, and someone asks you to practice on their quilt...
you don't practice, it's all work the same.
Explain these stitches, and have mini samples of these on actual variety of
blocks and plain fabric, so they can see the difference and how the stitching
would flow in a block (make a sample of asst. most common blocks, log cabin,
flying geese, 9 patch, etc).
Have a contract signed with your quilt owner, so she has picked the type of
quilting she wants, and charge accordingly...make sure she knows the charges you
placed to each type of stitch work (size).
Some charge by square inch, most common is 1-1/2 cents/sqin, and some charge by
the hour, and literally will keep track of each 15 minutes or hour they have
worked. If your hiring, ask if they keep track on a tablet the time they work
on the quilt. You do not pay/get paid, for "thinking" time of what to do, but
actual working/stitching time.
Make sure YOUR quilt when taking to a long arm quilter, is "fixed".
Clip all loose threads front AND back. Square up each block before you sew them
together, and in stages of your quilt, and sashing & borders kept even/squared
up. Pin borders on from middle to ends (NEVER end to end). And press your
seams so they do not bunch up. If you are finished, and you find the backside
has bunched seams, repress WITH STARCH to change the direction of seams. Set
seams before pressing to one direction or another, run the iron down the stitch
line, then fold the seam over and press again. STARCH IS GOOD.
Quilters will charge to pre-press, loading time avg. 1 hr putting your quilt on
the machine, the more problems it has, the longer.
Custom work (fancy stippling, feathers, details) COSTS! Either hire for edge to
edge or pantos work, or be prepared to pay dearly for detailed work. Long arm
quilters, your time is money, if you are uncomfortable, just say NO.
Ladies, a 60"x60" quilt, when you add a 10" border, you've doubled the square
inches of your quilt, expect to double the price also.
Quilters, you can do 3x(60"x60") quilts in the same time as 1(100"x100"king)
quilt.
When your quilting, your own or professionally, divide your quilt into those
folded quilt zones, and set goal/accomplish/repeat, and you'll finish in a
timely manner. Why practice on a quilt you've spend precious time and money on
quality fabric, to piece this lovely top.... practice on plain fabric folded
into quiltable zones, or on a crap basic quilt you'll donate for charity.
All the info I've seen that you've submitted has helped me in one way or another. Thank you so much for all you add. K. :lol: :thumbup: :lol:
I invest in good books that teach tips to simplify a particular technique, to teach tricks of trade in quilting. I've also invested in about 3 doz DVDs on all types of quilting. And our local library had 2 sets about doz each of quilting lessons I've gone through. I'm always trying to learn. There are many techniques I've self taught from a book also. Once you learn basics, you can usually work out any pattern/technique from a book or DVD. And there are always friends and groups like here you can ask advice.
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