VitaLuna

I’m certain this isn’t the “right” way, but I actually prefer to sew it to the back first, then roll it over to the front and stitch it that way. Easier, and I like the look better. I use 2 1/2” binding.

Anniedeb

I have never figured this out either! I will have to make some sample runs to figure out what looks best. Meanwhile, I'll keep sewing on the front, and flipping to the back and hand sewing it. I actually really enjoy the hand sewing part.

copycat

I have done binding this way and have had the same issue. There were many good tips from the Quilt Board on the post I did on binding below that may help you. When you square the quilt, leave extra batting to make the binding fuller so when you turn the binding to the back it just covers the stitch line from attaching the front binding. I also use wonder clips to hold the binding. They have the marks on the clips that help you see that the binding stays the same width around the quilt as you attach it. (read post below to clarify)

My Machine Binding done this way is never full. Any tips ?

Mkotch

This is what I do, too, but I leave a little less than 1/4" of batting showing beyond the quilt top. That insures a nice, puffy binding. If I find it's too thick at the corners, I trim a bit. I use a walking foot for both sides.

beach quilter

I just use a serpentine stitch. catches enough of the back edge to keep it down and if it's not perfectly straight it doesn't show. I've seen other decorative stitches used too. Looks like part of the design and a great use for pretty threads

grann of 6

Since my arthritic hands won't allow me to do a lot of hand stitching, I do all my binding by machine. I use a 2 1/2" width of binding, sew it to the back, and then fold it to the front and machine stitch close to the edge. On the back the stitching is hidden in the fabric next to the binding using thread that closely matches the backing. I can do a queen size quilt binding start to finish in about an hour. My quilts are made to be used and loved, so I know the binding will not come unsewed any time soon. I have yet to hear any complaints.

quilterpurpledog

I cut my binding 2 1/4 inches (I prefer bias binding in most cases), use 3/8 inch seam. I sew it on the back first and turn it to the front. I press the binding seam before turning it to the front. I hold the seam, as I stitch with an awl so the fold just covers the first stitching; on the back, the stitching is in the ditch. I an very happy with the result. I think the pressing is the key to success.

youngduncan

I have hand-sewn binding a couple of times, and the results have been pleasing. However, I am a machine person! I cut my binding strips at 2 1/2" then sew them to the back of the quilt. I do not press them; I want to avoid having to work with a crease when I roll the binding to the front.

When I bring the binding to the front of the quilt, I can decide the final width I want. I sew along the edge, measuring as I go with a hem gauge. I usually use a simple straight stitch. If I feel that a corner is a little loose, I take a needle and thread and invisibly sew that by hand. Since I do not do show quilts, I am not as concerned with the backs as I probably should be. There is usually a row of stitching along the back just outside the border, but so far no one who has received one of my quilts has complained.

The only hand sewing I do on bindings is the edge of the quilt label which is sewn onto the quilt back after the label is attached at the edges. If anyone wants to steal one of my quilts, they will have to destroy the binding to get the label off. I really doubt that that will happen.

I forgot to add that often the binding on the front is considerably wider than that of the back. The wider binding gives a frame to the design. Plus, I usually try to add enough fabric to my purchase or cutting to make sure the binding is done with fabric featured in the quilt top.

maviskw

Yes, Rhonda, the 3/8 inch seam is the magic width for a 2.5 inch wide binding. But if you sew at 3.8 inch, you certainly will be sewing off your end points. What's the answer? The binding should be full, but that doesn't have to include the "top" fabric. I trim the quilt just before binding, but not close. Leave a half inch or so of batt and backing beyond the top. I sew the binding on with a quarter inch seam from the edge of the top.

After the binding has been sewn on, trim at exactly 3/8 inch from your sewing line.
This is enough to fill the binding. I use a 12 inch ruler and my rotary cutter to get it pretty exact. I cut only about 3 or 4 inches at a time. Then I trim a bit out of the corners; not too much. Now the binding has to be ironed open carefully. Give it a stretch to open that ditch completely and make it stay there.

I flip the binding to the back, take a peek to see if it is covering the sewing line, and stitch in the ditch from the front. That is the actual ditch, not next to it. I only pin at the corners.

I've done lots of large quilts like this, miss my mark only a few times. It's surprising how fast this goes, and that's the point in doing it by machine.

carolynjo

That's the way I do it also.