301 Take-up lever
#21
Tammy, I appreciate your more clear words, as that is how I am hearing the quote from SSS group, and the photo with the colored circles is very helpful.
And, 10X, I appreciate the photo you included, that is what I was thinking they must be referring to, although the wording from the SSS quote doesn't match.
I don't see that moving the TUL towards the faceplate, (away from the hand wheel,) would do a bit of good. Actually, it seems it would be more likely to hit other parts inside. The TUL doesn't hit either side of it's opening, but whacks into the bottom of the opening where it stops the movement.
I really appreciate your knowledge and experience in trying to figure this out!
And, 10X, I appreciate the photo you included, that is what I was thinking they must be referring to, although the wording from the SSS quote doesn't match.
I don't see that moving the TUL towards the faceplate, (away from the hand wheel,) would do a bit of good. Actually, it seems it would be more likely to hit other parts inside. The TUL doesn't hit either side of it's opening, but whacks into the bottom of the opening where it stops the movement.
I really appreciate your knowledge and experience in trying to figure this out!
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 911
the sss qoute doesn't match because there as in here it's the ol he said she said go around and none have ever done it.
I ask again about the face plate just to be clear on where it hits, in the pic it looks like at the bottom. Then in the post it says face plate, of course you do a visual of a face plate m without thinking of the 301's face plate being totally one of it own styling.
now that you see where there talking about did that work ? thats less than a 5 minute job
I ask again about the face plate just to be clear on where it hits, in the pic it looks like at the bottom. Then in the post it says face plate, of course you do a visual of a face plate m without thinking of the 301's face plate being totally one of it own styling.
now that you see where there talking about did that work ? thats less than a 5 minute job
#24
I don't understand just what you are saying in your last comment, 10X.
If you are asking about where the TUL hits, my first picture shows where the end of it hits the bottom opening of the faceplate... I haven't tried turning the screw you point out because I do not see where it could possibly alter the angles of the TUL end by moving the whole assembly away from the hand wheel and towards the faceplate...
Any ideas, Glenn?
If you are asking about where the TUL hits, my first picture shows where the end of it hits the bottom opening of the faceplate... I haven't tried turning the screw you point out because I do not see where it could possibly alter the angles of the TUL end by moving the whole assembly away from the hand wheel and towards the faceplate...
Any ideas, Glenn?
#25
Actually 10x, the discussion on the SSS board came up because someone asked almost the exact question that Sheri did. The person who responded had just done it to one of their own machines, described it for the OP and the OP said that it worked perfectly. I only didn't quote it exactly because that content belongs to the SSS group and the qb mods will censor it if I do. This is info from 2 people who have done it, no "he said she said". I will look when I get back in the house and snap pics. For now, I have priorities that are weather and daylight dependant and can't wait.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 911
Arch, I'm one of the people on sss
I don't understand where the handwheel thing came into this. That wasn't from me.
The eccentric pin at the top in my photo is the adjuster talked about.. That will move the take up lever / arm up or down. Not in or out. you see the pen at teh end is the set screw loosen that. just below is the end of the pin it has a screw slot, use a screw driver and turn it, as you turn watch the end of the arm..
two of my commercial machine use this same adjustment.
yes I get pretty flustered, take the time . to take pic's showing where this adjuster is, only to have some one else that has never seen this come in and say it's wrong because they read something, but don't understand what they read
as I said it's 5 minute fix, as long as the arm isn't bent to bad.
I don't understand where the handwheel thing came into this. That wasn't from me.
The eccentric pin at the top in my photo is the adjuster talked about.. That will move the take up lever / arm up or down. Not in or out. you see the pen at teh end is the set screw loosen that. just below is the end of the pin it has a screw slot, use a screw driver and turn it, as you turn watch the end of the arm..
two of my commercial machine use this same adjustment.
yes I get pretty flustered, take the time . to take pic's showing where this adjuster is, only to have some one else that has never seen this come in and say it's wrong because they read something, but don't understand what they read
as I said it's 5 minute fix, as long as the arm isn't bent to bad.
#28
The handwheel reference was a misinterpretation on my part of the instructions posted in the sss group. More than one person was having difficulty interpreting what you were saying. I was trying to offer an easier way to understand it. I would prefer it though if you wouldn't assume you know what I have and haven't done or what I do and don't understand. I'm not the one who was suggesting prying on things that have proper adjustment ability.
Sheri, where the confusion was coming from is 10x was pointing to the set screw, not the adjustment. The "right" (as in "not left") reference is more clearly understood if you turn clockwise on the screw that faces the nose plate as shown below.
Once the set screw above this is loosened, turn this screw clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]510405[/ATTACH]
Sheri, where the confusion was coming from is 10x was pointing to the set screw, not the adjustment. The "right" (as in "not left") reference is more clearly understood if you turn clockwise on the screw that faces the nose plate as shown below.
Once the set screw above this is loosened, turn this screw clockwise or counter clockwise to adjust.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]510405[/ATTACH]
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 911
tami to defend myself my assumption is base on the fact that you said you had never done this.
as to the term prying , I welcome you to show where I used that.
with that said your right I should have never injected a word here , my photo's and term go over your head. because two of you have broken your own try's at straighten an arm meaning IT Can'T Be Done .
I thank you for stepping in and saving the day come heaven or hi water I'm going to find that access in the rear for that adjustment pin.
FYI, when you turn that adjuster don't push forward on it , you shove the pin outward, in fact you might want to put a finger on the front of the pin to make save it doesn't move out.
it;s not screw, it's a eccentric pin meaning it's like a cam on the arm end
as to the term prying , I welcome you to show where I used that.
with that said your right I should have never injected a word here , my photo's and term go over your head. because two of you have broken your own try's at straighten an arm meaning IT Can'T Be Done .
I thank you for stepping in and saving the day come heaven or hi water I'm going to find that access in the rear for that adjustment pin.
FYI, when you turn that adjuster don't push forward on it , you shove the pin outward, in fact you might want to put a finger on the front of the pin to make save it doesn't move out.
it;s not screw, it's a eccentric pin meaning it's like a cam on the arm end
#30
1. to move, raise, or open by leverage.
2. to obtain, extract, or separate with difficulty: to pry a secret out of someone.
n.
3. a tool, as a crowbar, for raising, moving, or opening something by leverage.
4. the leverage exerted.
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