Sheluma

I'm a bit confused maybe. I thought the knob turns only so much left or right, so that adjusting the knob is basically the same as adjusting the numbers. Both methods change the tension relative to the numbers. Does the action you take depend on what you're trying to do? Ie., if your tension is too loose but it's reading the number you think it should be reading, then push the ring, hold it still and tighten the knob. Conversely, if the tension is good but the number is wrong, then turn the number ring and leave the knob where it is? I guess I prefer to get the stitching where I want it, then put the numbers where I think they should be. Leaving the numbers static and turning the knob may require more tweaking because you don't know exactly how much you need to turn it. True that the numbers are arbitrary, but helpful for knowing where you are if you change the tension and then later want to go back to that spot.

Doh, I just thought of something else. If you turn the knob all the way to the left, the number should be at 0, and/or if you turn it all the way to the right the number should be at 9. Does that make sense and is that a reliable way to get the numbers in sync?

ArchaicArcane

I knew I didn't explain that well. You've got it basically right.

Yes, once the pin is seated in the numbered ring, assuming that the ring and the washer below it are seated correctly, the tensioner will only turn so much left to right. Ideally, this will line up with the numbers 0 - 9, but sometimes doesn't and because it's arbitrary, it's almost not of concern - except to the end user.

Once you disengage the pin on the silver knob from the ring, you can spin the ring to change where the numbers are, but the adjustment range stays effectively the same. This is mainly a change of perspective but it's also good for fine tuning. This is good for a "small" tension discrepancy because at most, this adjustment will turn the knob up or down the post a small bit of the thread more or less than before.

If you disengage the pin and turn the silver knob instead, you're moving the knob, and consequently the whole mechanism further from the base of the tensioner or closer to it, effectively changing how tight the tensioner is a 0 and all the way up the scale. This is more of a coarse adjustment. Once you've made this adjustment, you'll want to make the other adjustment (to the numbers) to make it sane again. This is a step that can sometimes be done without taking the tensioner right down to its component pieces to rectify a larger issue with tension, like the one that mpeters1200 is experiencing, assuming that the tensioner is assembled right, but adjusted wrong. This can adjust something as much as several numbers worth of "wrong" - Say tension is right at 9, or 0, but wrong in the middle and opposite ends. This is because you're turning the knob a thread or even several threads up or down before seating that pin again.

If it's assembled wrong, of course it has to be taken apart.

Here's the "Why"
When you reassemble the tensioner, you turn the knob onto the post a number of turns, then seat the pin into one of the holes.

How many turns before you seat it? It's not written in any manual, you just turn til it "feels" like you should seat it, right?

This is where the "mis-adjustment" comes in. If the person doing the adjustment just leaves it there, or maybe puts the numbers at some sane spot and leaves it, there's a good chance the tension will be wrong.

No, I don't have a set number of turns when I reassemble one, I turn it til it feels right, then test it to see what the tension is like. If the tension range is wrong, I push the ring in, so the pin clears it, and turn the knob right or left, depending on the results of testing, then I fine tune by adjusting the numbers.

What testing?
At 0, with the presser foot down, there should be a barely perceptible amount of tension on the thread. It should be almost the same as the presser foot being up. Turn it to 1, and there should be noticeable drag. By about 3 or 4, the needle should deflect some (about a 1/16") before the thread starts to come out more. (This is all in the link I posted btw. http://www.archaicarcane.com/fragile...-equal-stress/ )

If this is not how the tensioner behaves, it has been mis-adjusted the last time it was taken apart, it's missing pieces, was assembled wrong, or needs servicing.

Did I make anymore sense this time, or did I just muddy up the waters more?

Sheluma

Ah yes, that makes a lot of sense! Thank you for that. The only thing I don't get is this part, "Say tension is right at 9, or 0, but wrong in the middle and opposite ends." If it's right at one end of the spectrum, shouldn't it be right throughout? Let's say it's right at 0 (there's barely any drag on the thread) -- if you then push the ring in and turn the silver knob, won't it then be wrong at 0?

ArchaicArcane

What I meant by "right" is a balanced stitch at 9 or 0, which would mean that in essentially all other spots it would be unusable.

mpeters1200

I'm still trying to get through the blog post, but not because of the way it's written. It's wonderful. My children decided I did not need to spend quality time with mom's machine this weekend. ARGH. I did have one success though, I was finally able to push the knob with the numbers and separate the ring from the knob and I can see the little pin deal and everything. I was so excited I FINALLY got the thing to move, I promptly forgot what I wanted to do with it once I got it moving. I'm trying to figure out which hole is the right one to have it seat in. I'm sorely tempted to take it to my VSMG and just letting him do it. I have been really happy with my progress so far, cause I've done it all myself, but I am having serious arguments with myself about this machine.

I remembered just now I still need to take pictures of those funky bobbins and post them. I emailed myself and hope to be able to do this tomorrow afternoon.

ArchaicArcane

Yeah!! So was the knob just stuck? Years of dried oil can do that. I often have my plans changed by DH, weather, pets, etc. I totally know how you feel.

I've been that excited. You can totally do this on your own. Believe me. It was one of the first things I learned, and I'm 100% self taught (unless you count the youtube videos, QB threads, and Interwebs research as being non-self taught. I include research in self-learning.)

Don't concentrate so much on which hole you choose. For now, work on deciding how we need to adjust the tension (tighter or looser based on the test) the hole it needs to be in will just naturally fall into place.

Yes, those bobbins have got me curious.

minstrel

I've been really frustrated with one of my Featherweights. My tension has to be set between 8-9 to have stitches come out decently (not perfect, but livable), and when pulling my fabric out after it's sewn in order to cut threads, it's extremely hard, and bends the needle. I have the book/DVD set that shows how to clean and repair it, and it's all nice and clean and oiled, but this tension thing is driving me nuts. I'm going to go through this thread and try some of the suggestions to see if the answer is here. I know there are a few things I haven't tried. Thanks all for sharing!

Sheluma

D'oh! I just saw this. Thanks -- that explains it. (Another d'oh! would be too many but that's how I feel)

It sounds like you have two things going on. First is that your tension release pin may be stuck and that's why it's not releasing when you raise the presser foot. Check out this blog post where Elizabeth has clearly labelled the tension release pin.
http://mysewingmachineobsession.blog...-assembly.html
Put some oil on that spot and work it in. On my featherweight the pin is smaller and harder to see, but it's there. Maybe you'll need a safety pin to remove any gunk around it. Elizabeth has another post where she removes the tension assembly in one piece by loosening the set screw. If cleaning doesn't work you might try that.

The other issue --- If your tension is properly assembled and clean, then maybe you just need to loosen it as Tammi explains above. Push the ring in and turn the knob to the left (I think it's left) a quarter turn or so, then try again. Keep on tweaking until it's where you want it to be.

Bobquilts

Send it to me --- I'll fix it for nothing. You pay shipping both ways.

Redsquirrel

I agree about that upper thread tension assembly being scary and complicated to take apart when you first look at the diagrams. I was very afraid to try it. BUT, if you dive in and take it apart and put it back together a bunch of times, it gets easier and easier. Its not so scary after you do it a couple of times. I had to take apart a rusty tension assembly on a 15-90 and clean it all up. It took me several tries to get it back together and get the number dial to line up right, but with the help of that old manual with the blown apart diagram it works like a dream. If your afraid to work on this yourself, don't be. Dive in, you have nothing to lose and everything to learn. You might surprise yourself.