I am sooo stupid I want to cry. PLEASE HELP
04-08-2014, 07:17 PM
#21
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,333
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
An easy-out should be available from a relatively well stocked hardware store. It is kind of like a coarse thread tap, but backwards threads. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-1-S...SE06/202972059
it may be too big for the hole in the oil bushing. Another possibility is finding a tap that will fit in the hole, turn it in by a wrench, it will thread the hole, then you can use that size screw in the threads to jack the bushing back out of the hole.
I don't have a 66 where I can get to it, and 99's don't have the same kind of insert bushing. I think you might try an 8-32 tap to see if it might start in it. keep it straight up vertical, put a little oil on it to help it cut. thread it in about 1/2 to 3/4 turn, back out about a 1/8 - 1/4 turn, then back in repeating. you may not be able to go very far, unless you can find a bottoming tap, one that doesn't have a lead in that doesn't cut much to help it start. But if you don't have one, once it stops turning, remove it and grind off about 1/4" and take it a little deeper. After the hole is tapped, inserting a number 8-32 machine screw should push it up.
Sorry for a long winded passage here. Maybe Steve H has another way.
it may be too big for the hole in the oil bushing. Another possibility is finding a tap that will fit in the hole, turn it in by a wrench, it will thread the hole, then you can use that size screw in the threads to jack the bushing back out of the hole.
I don't have a 66 where I can get to it, and 99's don't have the same kind of insert bushing. I think you might try an 8-32 tap to see if it might start in it. keep it straight up vertical, put a little oil on it to help it cut. thread it in about 1/2 to 3/4 turn, back out about a 1/8 - 1/4 turn, then back in repeating. you may not be able to go very far, unless you can find a bottoming tap, one that doesn't have a lead in that doesn't cut much to help it start. But if you don't have one, once it stops turning, remove it and grind off about 1/4" and take it a little deeper. After the hole is tapped, inserting a number 8-32 machine screw should push it up.
Sorry for a long winded passage here. Maybe Steve H has another way.
04-08-2014, 07:41 PM
#22
Super Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Northern CA near Sacramento
Posts: 1,107
This is to adjust the too tight tension between the top and bottom pivots of that rocker shaft , created by the oil "plug"/ bushing being driven in. I have made this type of adjustment before, but for different reasons.
Cathy
Cathy
Originally Posted by Cogito
sounds easy peasy but I wish you were here to hold my hand! 
I'm not sure I follow everything but it might be clearer in the morning when I sit down in front of my machine to actually try it. So tell me what that is accomplishing and why you know to do that? 
I'm not sure I follow everything but it might be clearer in the morning when I sit down in front of my machine to actually try it. So tell me what that is accomplishing and why you know to do that?
04-08-2014, 08:06 PM
#23
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
For Miriam, some thread cutting related items.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]470787[/ATTACH]
Left to Rt. A thread cutting die and handle, to cut threads in a rod, or clean up (chase) threads on a screw. 2nd is a die by itself. 3rd is a tap handle, as well as the T-handle above it for taps and easy outs and reamers. 4th is an 8-32 tap in a red/white pkg, then one not pkgd. Next is a thread guage to measure the "pitch" or threads per inch (TPI). Last is a Number 1 Easy-out, for a 5/64" hole (between 1/16" and 3/32")
Hope this isn't too boring, but now you'll be able to "chase" another kind of "thread"!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]470787[/ATTACH]
Left to Rt. A thread cutting die and handle, to cut threads in a rod, or clean up (chase) threads on a screw. 2nd is a die by itself. 3rd is a tap handle, as well as the T-handle above it for taps and easy outs and reamers. 4th is an 8-32 tap in a red/white pkg, then one not pkgd. Next is a thread guage to measure the "pitch" or threads per inch (TPI). Last is a Number 1 Easy-out, for a 5/64" hole (between 1/16" and 3/32")
Hope this isn't too boring, but now you'll be able to "chase" another kind of "thread"!
04-09-2014, 02:16 AM
#25
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
We have a nice tap and die set but I haven't tried to use them on any thing. DH has an easy out - most of the pieces are too big for anything on a Singer. I have used a wheel puller to get the broken hand wheel bushing off a shaft.
04-09-2014, 05:40 AM
#27
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,333
Originally Posted by Mizkaki
CD has given you great advice. Making the adjustment from the bottom is be the better way to go. Some machines have that adjustment at the top, but unfortunately not this one (if it did there would be a screw slot on the top of the oil "plug").
Using CD's picture as a reference. Put a large blade screw driver in the slot of the screw to keep it from turning, then loosen the lock nut. Now turn the screw (probably clockwise) a half turn or so. This will drive the screw in and push up on the oil "plug". Now back off the screw to its starting place. Test the machine. It should turn easier, if not try again with a full turn of the screw. repeat as needed. If this all does not work, turn the screw counterclockwise from the original starting spot to back off the pressure. then test the machine. If all is well tighten the locknut while holding the screw steady. Easy peasy, but nerve wracking none the less.
Hope this helps,
Cathy
Using CD's picture as a reference. Put a large blade screw driver in the slot of the screw to keep it from turning, then loosen the lock nut. Now turn the screw (probably clockwise) a half turn or so. This will drive the screw in and push up on the oil "plug". Now back off the screw to its starting place. Test the machine. It should turn easier, if not try again with a full turn of the screw. repeat as needed. If this all does not work, turn the screw counterclockwise from the original starting spot to back off the pressure. then test the machine. If all is well tighten the locknut while holding the screw steady. Easy peasy, but nerve wracking none the less.
Hope this helps,
Cathy
04-09-2014, 07:08 AM
#28
Super Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Iowa
Posts: 1,333
Well loosening up that rocker arm isn't going to happen. I don't have the strength and it's not budging....no way to hold a big screwdriver in the slot AND get any kind of torque on the nut. Lol....left handed and a small woman in late 50's I guess doesn't help the matter. I tapped upward through the access plate in the area that had been pushed down and did give it a little relief, but not anywhere near where it originally was. It is very difficult to get the right angle in there. And now I just mutilated the end of the treadle belt trying to get it reconnected and had to cut it off. It is probably too short now. Arghh! What a way to start the day. I may just have to look at this one to enjoy it. 
04-09-2014, 07:18 AM
#29
Super Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 8,091
I think you just gave yourself a clue on how to proceed: "I tapped upward through the access plate in the area that had been pushed down and did give it a little relief, but not anywhere near where it originally was. It is very difficult to get the right angle in there."
What I would suggest is to spend a few dollars for a long piece of brass rod and come up from the bottom of the machine if you can, and gently tap it back where it was. If not up from bottom, then use the brass rod and continue what you were doing a bit at a time through the inspection port. You've got it started so you're on the way there.
As for the belt, they are stretchy. You can probably redo it once and be OK. If not they are cheap.
Don't give up, you'll get it.
Joe
What I would suggest is to spend a few dollars for a long piece of brass rod and come up from the bottom of the machine if you can, and gently tap it back where it was. If not up from bottom, then use the brass rod and continue what you were doing a bit at a time through the inspection port. You've got it started so you're on the way there.
As for the belt, they are stretchy. You can probably redo it once and be OK. If not they are cheap.
Don't give up, you'll get it.
Joe
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thequiltmama
General Chit-Chat (non-quilting talk)
56
12-01-2010 09:49 PM
