The Machine That I Fiddled With Today
06-27-2014, 10:25 AM
#384
Super Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Centralia, WA, USA
Posts: 4,890
Originally Posted by oldsewnsew
For some reason i got this one through Shop GW local outlet. $5 (+$4 handling) Couldnt redistance the old locomotive resemblance. Moved stiff, wiring shot. Oiling loosened it up, buy now it hand turns with an annoyong squeek.I used a screw driver to tfy and pinpoint, but its deceptive. I'll try stethoscope later. [ATTACH=CONFIG]480519[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480520[/ATTACH]
debating about stripping it and repainting it sort of like the old Bi-centenial Souutthern Pacific. Lloco would be appropriate
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480520[/ATTACH]
debating about stripping it and repainting it sort of like the old Bi-centenial Souutthern Pacific. Lloco would be appropriate
I'm weird I guess but i kind of like the styling on those.
Rodney
06-29-2014, 09:16 PM
#385
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Anyone ever tried Hand Crank sewing like this??
Ok, I've seen some adaptations of the cheap Chinese Singer clones Hand Cranks. I've seen Miriam's clever usage of "necker knobs" I've got another way. Wanna see? Stay tuned...
06-29-2014, 10:15 PM
#386
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Okay, back story, I had a Willcox & Gibbs Automatic (chainstitch) like many, that had no drive mechanism. Actually, it's a New Home, same difference. And then I got what I thought wasn't too bad of a deal on a W & G with a motor, but no foot pedal. Well the motor wasn't just missing one brush and its threaded plastic retainer, the casting that it threads into is mostly broken out, so I'm going to have to find a W & G motor (Westinghouse) that I can either get parts from or just use it.
So what about the Hand Crank?? drum rolllll......
Ta dah!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480962[/ATTACH]
this is sort of a mockup, test of concept, kind of thing. Another view..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480963[/ATTACH]
Actually my first trial was to put 2 screws thru the wooden disc, into threaded nylon posts, to go into the drive wheel, directly like the motor would. However, alignment might be a little fussy, and if it's off even a little it will add vibration. So, what we have here, is kind of a universal test jig, or, you could actually sew with it. For any youngsters out there, who might not understand what you're seeing, it's a hand crank grinder, sharpener. These things turn up relatively often in the same kind of places that old sewing machines do. Online auctions, garage sales, antique stores, etc, but I can't recall the last time I saw one in a thrift store. If you want to try this, I'd suggest finding one that has a stone less than 4" diameter, a 5 or 6" stone capacity is too heavy and large. This one has a gear reduction that gives a 9.5 turns ratio, so for each turn of the crank you get 9.5 rotations of the machine balance wheel. I think that hand crank sewing machines often turn around 5:1, which is easier on your arm.
My initial idea was to wear a groove in the grind stone, to drive a belt. I have a lathe, but there are other ways to come up with a wooden disc, a hole saw in a drill press, careful sawing, sanding and filing, or,...you could actually take a roughed out piece of wood and turn it down using the grinder as a lathe, and it's tool rest, to steady your cutting tool, then cut a groove, sand and spin it while wiping in some danish oil or?
If I use it on a base for a different, more conventional style of machine, it will have a larger balance wheel than the W&G, which will make it easier to turn but slower. There are a number of options for mounting, it could be in front of the W&G, or below another type machine's balance wheel, since it clamps on, you can adjust the belt tightness. More later...
So what about the Hand Crank?? drum rolllll......
Ta dah!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480962[/ATTACH]
this is sort of a mockup, test of concept, kind of thing. Another view..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480963[/ATTACH]
Actually my first trial was to put 2 screws thru the wooden disc, into threaded nylon posts, to go into the drive wheel, directly like the motor would. However, alignment might be a little fussy, and if it's off even a little it will add vibration. So, what we have here, is kind of a universal test jig, or, you could actually sew with it. For any youngsters out there, who might not understand what you're seeing, it's a hand crank grinder, sharpener. These things turn up relatively often in the same kind of places that old sewing machines do. Online auctions, garage sales, antique stores, etc, but I can't recall the last time I saw one in a thrift store. If you want to try this, I'd suggest finding one that has a stone less than 4" diameter, a 5 or 6" stone capacity is too heavy and large. This one has a gear reduction that gives a 9.5 turns ratio, so for each turn of the crank you get 9.5 rotations of the machine balance wheel. I think that hand crank sewing machines often turn around 5:1, which is easier on your arm.
My initial idea was to wear a groove in the grind stone, to drive a belt. I have a lathe, but there are other ways to come up with a wooden disc, a hole saw in a drill press, careful sawing, sanding and filing, or,...you could actually take a roughed out piece of wood and turn it down using the grinder as a lathe, and it's tool rest, to steady your cutting tool, then cut a groove, sand and spin it while wiping in some danish oil or?
If I use it on a base for a different, more conventional style of machine, it will have a larger balance wheel than the W&G, which will make it easier to turn but slower. There are a number of options for mounting, it could be in front of the W&G, or below another type machine's balance wheel, since it clamps on, you can adjust the belt tightness. More later...
06-29-2014, 10:35 PM
#387
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
Oh, BTW, another option, which I'm getting to, is mounting an arm perpindicular to the base, so that it could set on any table surface, and the grinder/hand crank could move up or down the arm to get the right belt tension, or you could use a pair of drive fingers consisting of 1/4" bolts with their heads cut off, and a piece of vinyl hose over them. If this is not clear, I'll have pics soon.
The other one I worked on, is one that was on a "giggles" post because the Value Village Thrift Store had this 15 clone marked at $129, I got it a special color tag sale for TWO DOLLARS!! It needs a wiring block because the copper connection points in the existing one, are pretty loose, and by speading out AC plug prongs and plugging it in about 1/2 way, it worked beautifully. Well, only after I cleaned out what looked like the scuzziest grunge in the bobbin area I'd ever seen, it was GROSS!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480967[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480968[/ATTACH]
It's a "Sew Magic" and the badge on the pillar says Seawol Sewing Supplies. Did I mention, its' QUIET!? And even after a total dis-assembly of everything in the bobbin area, it started off sewing an old t-shirt, with perfect tension. I just
The other one I worked on, is one that was on a "giggles" post because the Value Village Thrift Store had this 15 clone marked at $129, I got it a special color tag sale for TWO DOLLARS!! It needs a wiring block because the copper connection points in the existing one, are pretty loose, and by speading out AC plug prongs and plugging it in about 1/2 way, it worked beautifully. Well, only after I cleaned out what looked like the scuzziest grunge in the bobbin area I'd ever seen, it was GROSS!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480967[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]480968[/ATTACH]
It's a "Sew Magic" and the badge on the pillar says Seawol Sewing Supplies. Did I mention, its' QUIET!? And even after a total dis-assembly of everything in the bobbin area, it started off sewing an old t-shirt, with perfect tension. I just
06-30-2014, 01:57 AM
#388
Power Poster
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 15,507
Jim, the first time I took Ray White's class there was a lady who had rigged a grinder up with an arm to go into the spoke wheel of the machine. It worked great - it did take a bit of wrangling to do it though. I've been looking for a grinder for 2 years. Glenn beat me to one at the antique mall and it was about double the price of a HC.
06-30-2014, 05:23 AM
#389
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
This one wasn't TOO expensive off ebay, there are so many of them there that sometimes one slips through without too much attention. Dern, I thought I had a different idea, nothin new under the sun. (Not like I was inventing anything) One thing I thought about, is it will also help in bobbin winding some of the treadle heads, I could even use it as a dedicated bobbin winder. I have a few BWs lying about.
06-30-2014, 05:34 AM
#390
Super Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Springfield Oregon
Posts: 1,481
This one wasn't TOO expensive off ebay, there are so many of them there that sometimes one slips through without too much attention. Dern, I thought I had a different idea, nothin new under the sun. (Not like I was inventing anything) One thing I thought about, is it will also help in bobbin winding some of the treadle heads, I could even use it as a dedicated bobbin winder. I have a few BWs lying about.
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