Originally Posted by tjradj

Vacuuming the inside. I have a Sharp hand held vacuum that I use for cleaning "inside" the machines. Once I put the crevice tool on, then I use duct tape to attach a drinking straw. Just make sure the duct tape leaves a bit of space so you don't get too much suction. I can slide that straw into just about any spot, even squeezing it a little to fit the tiny spots. By using a handheld vac, if I accidently suck up something important , there is only a small screen to clean to find it instead of going through a whole vacuum cleaner bag!

Originally Posted by irishrose

There's a 501 - is that the Rocketeer? - wirh a case and attachments on ebay closing in few hours. It looks like it is going to go for less than $100. What a temptation! I think I'm going to turn the computer off until the machine is sold. Shipping is listed at $40, but that's expedited. Economy will be less.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=p5197.c0.m619

Originally Posted by irishrose

Donna Mare, That's not the machine I was considering. The one I was bidding on is a tan 501. It looks like a Rocketeer.

The one you have pictures one has the look of one whose orignal owner tied fabric around the top to use as a pin cushion. Looks like water damage on the base, too.

Originally Posted by vintagemotif

Okay, now I picture you dancing around your machines! :)

Originally Posted by tomilu

Glenn, the Treadleon Workshop has directions on building display and handcrank machine bases. Blueprints and plenty of pics.

Originally Posted by kwendt

I used the Tung oil on my older cabinets. I grew up sailing and my dad would use Tung oil on the tiller. I remember him sanding and applying many coats of Tung oil, and he could get away with this for a couple of years before he had to re-sand and apply again. I always like the look of the wood after the Tung oil has been applied. I use the 100% Tung oil on my butcher-block counter top, but I do have to reapply twice a year since I only apply two coats. I really don't care what one uses (Tung, Shellac, varnish) on the cabinet, as long as the cabinet doesn't fall apart. Guess you can tell I'm not into restoring, but I do hate to see a sad looking cabinet that was once gorgeous.

Originally Posted by BoJangles

Thank you guys for the compliments! Quilt As You Go is a fun way to use your treadles or even the electric vintage machines. You are only working with one block at a time to quilt, but when I finish 4 blocks (the blocks are 17"s square), then you still have to do a little wrestling to attach them to the sashing. Not like trying to quilt a queen sized quilt, though, and wrestle the whole thing just to quilt it! I have done that many a time! The really neat thing about the way I did these blocks is your blocks don't have to all measure the exact same thing! When you use the back ground, attach it to all sides and put the blocks on point, wacky, then square each one up to 17 1/2"s, no one ever knows your blocks didn't all measure exactly 12 1/2 inches to start with! Love it!

The really neat thing about this is that you can make a completely reversible quilt. Here I am using flannel on the back to make a comfort quilt, but I have done one completely reversible.

Nancy
Oh sorry about the pink, orange, and yellow stickies! I have to number the blocks to make sure they stay wacky!

Originally Posted by Glenn

Tung oil over older cabinets just sits on the the top of the shellac and will evaporate and will need to be applied again. Since the older cabinets already have a finish on them I recomend you wax them to protect and bring out the shine in the original shellac finish. As always this is a personal choice. I use briwax in clear or brown. I prefer to restore the original finish then try to apply a new finish such as tung oil. Glenn

Originally Posted by grannysewer

Very pretty and love the color. I'm working on one right now using Ditter's method. Mine's blue and white also, but didn't think about setting it wonky and with different sashings. Bobbie