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Thread: Vintage Sewing Machine Shop Machine Photos

  1. #2201
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    nice! Brasso on the metal maybe?

  2. #2202
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
    nice! Brasso on the metal maybe?
    Drummel equipped with a brush to get to bare metal. I did use some stuff to clean it but it looks to me there isn't a lot of plating left.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  3. #2203
    Super Member Cari-in-Oly's Avatar
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    Cool machine Miriam and I love the case.

    Cari

  4. #2204
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    WOW, Miriam. Nice job.

  5. #2205
    Power Poster miriam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lolthom View Post
    WOW, Miriam. Nice job.
    Not really any better job than usual, that one is just a lot nicer machine to start with than usual. Diamond in the rough.
    NEVER let a sewing machine know you are in a hurry.
    good mothers let you lick the beaters - great mothers turn it off first

  6. #2206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dantanamo View Post
    1951 Singer 301A
    Serial Number NA433161
    Attachment 534129
    My sister found an apparently-forgotten 301A in our late mother's belongings; we didn't even know she owned it. The machine had a bad plug (wiring disconnected) so I replaced this and cleaned everything else up recently. What a nice straight stitch she makes!

    That is one GORGEOUS 301A. Lucky! Lucky!

  7. #2207
    Member mikado_44's Avatar
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    My today find, a Singer 13, probably a 13K, she need a big cleaning but nothing impossible. I think that I will have some questions in a very near future .
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    I put some other pictures in a Flickr album : https://flic.kr/s/aHsknJzWco
    Philippe

  8. #2208
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    Rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush work well to get the residue out of knurling. Be sure to remove the part (e.g., the handwheel clutch) or carefully protect the machine before using alcohol because you don't want to get any on the finish.

  9. #2209
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    That is awesome! I have a 13 treadle and it is amazing to sew with. I was fortunate in that the seller thought they had a 12 and that it was WELL preserved.

  10. #2210
    Member mikado_44's Avatar
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    Ok Steve, mine is not in very good condition, but she is complete and paint and decals are in a not so bad shape.

    I have a question about needles for this machine, normally I will need 13x1 ones which are very rare today. I just found a broken shank in the needle clamp with a 1.6mm diameter.
    Do you know a good replacement for Singer 13, or could I use the 12x1 ones ?

    Many thanks

  11. #2211
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Actually I think yous is in great shape. Needs some TLC, that it.

    I have been told that DBx1 will also work for these, But I have a few 13x1's still so I have not tested

  12. #2212
    Super Member ArchaicArcane's Avatar
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    I will mention that the shaft diameter on the DBx1 needle varies from brand to brand. You may have to try a few to get the right ones. I can use the DBx1 needles I seem to find here in my 12 and 13 "clones" but only if I dremel the shafts down to fit. It's tedious and if you shave too much on the wrong side, it can cause clearance issues. If you can find some locally that fit (take the head with you) - get the brand and then order in bulk online. What I do know is that the Gros Beckert DBx1 needles that I have here have a large shaft, so they're not especially suitable.

    This thread here: http://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage...ml#post5986789 has a lot of information in it (in various posts from Mizkaki) about DBx1 needles and it's all worth reading.

  13. #2213
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    If all else fails I'd try a Boye #2 or 1x7 sewing machine needle if more available than 13x1. Organ makes a small shank DBX1 at 1.60mm, others can be larger as mentioned. I've had mixed success with using DBX1 on my Model 12's due to larger shank. I'd be curious to hear if a 12x1 or DBx1 has enough length to work in the Model 13. Also, Steve's 46x1 Glovers needles which are still available might fit the bill.

    Good Luck

    Jon
    Last edited by jlhmnj; 11-10-2015 at 04:52 PM.

  14. #2214
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    The 46x1 needles have a full groove on both sides. (Two thread double chainstitch) I can't imagine that would work very well with a normal lockstitch machine

  15. #2215
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Hi Steve,

    Would you know if the 46x1 needle needs to be oriented on a particular long groove and how would the thread be caught by the chainstitch looper if it doesn't throw a loop? Sounds like an interesting needle.

    Jon
    Last edited by jlhmnj; 11-10-2015 at 08:27 PM.

  16. #2216
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
    The 46x1 needles have a full groove on both sides. (Two thread double chainstitch) I can't imagine that would work very well with a normal lockstitch machine
    Why not though? The groove's just there to make space for the thread, what would it do to the stitch physics if there was just empty air there? Not much. A little less resistance on the fabric on that side is all...
    Kenmore: 158.14001 (still seeking its perfect name), 158.17011 ("Enterprise")

  17. #2217
    Member mikado_44's Avatar
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    I already have some dpx17, I will try to find some organ dbx1 even if here Schmetz ones are more easily available.
    But now I have some rust removal, cleaning and polishing things to do ...

    Many thanks to all

  18. #2218
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quincunx View Post
    Why not though? The groove's just there to make space for the thread, what would it do to the stitch physics if there was just empty air there? Not much. A little less resistance on the fabric on that side is all...

    The way a regular machine makes a loop for the hook or shuttle to pass through is that the side with NO groove allows the thread to be "pinched" between the needle body and the fabric so that when the needle is lifted the thread is held long enough for the loop to form. If you put the needle in backwards, the thread will be safe in the groove and will slide up with the needle so no loop = no stitch.

    This is why it is so important for the thread to be going in from the correct direction and the needle to be oriented properly.

  19. #2219
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlhmnj View Post
    Hi Steve, Would you know if the 46x1 needle needs to be oriented on a particular long groove and how would the thread be caught by the chainstitch looper if it doesn't throw a loop? Sounds like an interesting needle. Jon
    Not sure yet. awaiting the needles still. On the one that was in it the groove is 100% on 1 side and about 60-75% of the side on the other. I only have a parts manual, no operators manual. I am hoping that the instructions for a modern machine will be available and useful. Otherwise, lots of careful experimentation.

    On the G&B the needle had a full groove on both sides but both sides also have a scarf, which allowed the fine tolerance machine to interweave the thread.

  20. #2220
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Mikado,

    I looked up the specs of the DPx17, a common needle for Walking Foot machines, and the shank is 2mm which would have to be ground down to fit though the length is about right. Please send in some pics when she's all cleaned up and Good Luck.

    Steve,

    I found a manual for a modern Glover's machine, Kansai SPX-101, not sure how helpful it is: Looks like a great though difficult project.

    http://www.supsew.com/KnowledgeBaseA...ai%20SPX_E.pdf

    Jon

  21. #2221
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    picked this up on the auction site. For less than $1 a tube...
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  22. #2222
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Hi Steve,

    Nice collection and wide variety of Boye needles. The tube on the bottom right is 1x7 needles for Household and is from the Simplicity cabinet. Tubes 10,12, and 16 with the Jan. 18, 1910 patent dates Usually though not always have contents from the old style Boye numbering system or 20x1 New Home (10), Singer 15x1 (12), and 20x1 White (16). The tubes with no patent date on the cap is Standard 15x1 (6), White 20x1 (12), and National 20x1 (14). These are the newer and more common Boye numbering system.

    Boye also used different colored inks which denote needle size range. Most common is black / red. Your collection also has Green / Bluish black.

    Can't quite make out the hand written tube. Very nice find.

    Jon

  23. #2223
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Wow... Thank you! Now I can take the needles out, and measure them against what is supposed to be in there.

    "simplicity cabinet" now I have some research to do...

    Oh, and the "sharps" needle case in the lower left has a single needle in it that is significantly bent at the tip (looks intentional)

  24. #2224
    Super Member jlhmnj's Avatar
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    Steve,

    You probably have this chart but for the benefit of those who don't:

    https://sites.google.com/site/kevinsstuff1/sewing-stuff

    Also, the tubes from a personal collection as compared with a large lot in a Boye cabinet frequently get mixed up.

    The reason I mention about the old style numbering with the Jan. 18, 1910 patent dates is to serve as a warning to verify the needle dimensions so the wrong needle is not purchased.

    Jon

  25. #2225
    Super Member SteveH's Avatar
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    Awesome (I had seen that before but had not previously bookmarked it, thanks!)

    My Boye Cabinet is the old style/old numbering as well. works out perfect!

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