Applique Club (Do you like to applique, lets chit chat here)
#221
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 547
Originally Posted by craftybear
does anyone have these needles please watch the video
http://pieceocake.typepad.com/piece-...-quilting.html
http://pieceocake.typepad.com/piece-...-quilting.html
Debbie in Austin
#222
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 547
Originally Posted by quiltbuddy
I'm trying to transfer an applique design from a magazine fold out section and they printed many other patterns on the same fold out. Of course the one I want has the lightest line. It has really been slow going trying to see the correct line. I have a light box but that only helps a little. Any suggestions?
Hope this helps,
debbie in Austin
#223
I noticed the seam turn also but maybe because it is on a white background. I made mine 1/4 inch but all the books I read say 3/16th. I have not seen any rulers that show sixteens. Who came up w/that crazy measurement?
#224
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,920
3/16" is between 1/8" and 1/4". Once you get used to cutting the seam allowance, you will be able to eyeball it without using a ruler.
The white background is showing: to correct this, the background would be neatly cut away wherein only the seam allowance would shadow.
This is also true when selecting fabric for backing, particularly when using a thin batting: Choose a fabric that is no darker than the lightest fabric on the top.
Suz
The white background is showing: to correct this, the background would be neatly cut away wherein only the seam allowance would shadow.
This is also true when selecting fabric for backing, particularly when using a thin batting: Choose a fabric that is no darker than the lightest fabric on the top.
Suz
#226
Originally Posted by Suz
3/16" is between 1/8" and 1/4". Once you get used to cutting the seam allowance, you will be able to eyeball it without using a ruler.
The white background is showing: to correct this, the background would be neatly cut away wherein only the seam allowance would shadow.
This is also true when selecting fabric for backing, particularly when using a thin batting: Choose a fabric that is no darker than the lightest fabric on the top.
Suz
The white background is showing: to correct this, the background would be neatly cut away wherein only the seam allowance would shadow.
This is also true when selecting fabric for backing, particularly when using a thin batting: Choose a fabric that is no darker than the lightest fabric on the top.
Suz
The advise: After cutting the stitches (I cut mine on the back since the front was done in invisible thread) and taking out the large sections (in my case the invisible thread), take a lint brush or tape and run it across all those cut threads.
It really did cut the time down TREMENDOUSLY! Whereas I thought i could only undo two kittens, I ended up undoing 6 in one night.
#227
Originally Posted by Suz
Are any of you ready for your next applique lesson? I have a few things that I could share.
Suz
Suz
#228
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Central PA
Posts: 1,920
Next lesson, making the heart:
At the bottom point, take an extra stitch to secure the point. I take an extra stitch when making leaves.
At the cleft, cut into the cleft to within a thread or two of the deepest point. Then when stitching, take three extra stitches a little deeper into the cleft. One to the left, one to the right and one in the center. The stitches will look like three little toes. They will show, but will show nicely and neatly. Since there is so little fabric remaining, these deeper stitches will secure and avoid freying.
New heart: this time, using your template, draw the shape on the right of the fabric with a pigma pen. YES, right side, permanent pigma pen. Cut out (1/4" or less seam allowance) and center onto the background. Pin or baste into place. If you want, you can wait and cut into the cleft when you get to it. Use needleturn and use the pen line as your turning line. If done correctly, it will not show.
Always start your applique stitching on a straight side rather than a curve or point.
Please post how you make out. Suz
At the bottom point, take an extra stitch to secure the point. I take an extra stitch when making leaves.
At the cleft, cut into the cleft to within a thread or two of the deepest point. Then when stitching, take three extra stitches a little deeper into the cleft. One to the left, one to the right and one in the center. The stitches will look like three little toes. They will show, but will show nicely and neatly. Since there is so little fabric remaining, these deeper stitches will secure and avoid freying.
New heart: this time, using your template, draw the shape on the right of the fabric with a pigma pen. YES, right side, permanent pigma pen. Cut out (1/4" or less seam allowance) and center onto the background. Pin or baste into place. If you want, you can wait and cut into the cleft when you get to it. Use needleturn and use the pen line as your turning line. If done correctly, it will not show.
Always start your applique stitching on a straight side rather than a curve or point.
Please post how you make out. Suz
#229
Originally Posted by Suz
Next lesson, making the heart:
At the bottom point, take an extra stitch to secure the point. I take an extra stitch when making leaves.
At the cleft, cut into the cleft to within a thread or two of the deepest point. Then when stitching, take three extra stitches a little deeper into the cleft. One to the left, one to the right and one in the center. The stitches will look like three little toes. They will show, but will show nicely and neatly. Since there is so little fabric remaining, these deeper stitches will secure and avoid freying.
New heart: this time, using your template, draw the shape on the right of the fabric with a pigma pen. YES, right side, permanent pigma pen. Cut out (1/4" or less seam allowance) and center onto the background. Pin or baste into place. If you want, you can wait and cut into the cleft when you get to it. Use needleturn and use the pen line as your turning line. If done correctly, it will not show.
Always start your applique stitching on a straight side rather than a curve or point.
Please post how you make out. Suz
At the bottom point, take an extra stitch to secure the point. I take an extra stitch when making leaves.
At the cleft, cut into the cleft to within a thread or two of the deepest point. Then when stitching, take three extra stitches a little deeper into the cleft. One to the left, one to the right and one in the center. The stitches will look like three little toes. They will show, but will show nicely and neatly. Since there is so little fabric remaining, these deeper stitches will secure and avoid freying.
New heart: this time, using your template, draw the shape on the right of the fabric with a pigma pen. YES, right side, permanent pigma pen. Cut out (1/4" or less seam allowance) and center onto the background. Pin or baste into place. If you want, you can wait and cut into the cleft when you get to it. Use needleturn and use the pen line as your turning line. If done correctly, it will not show.
Always start your applique stitching on a straight side rather than a curve or point.
Please post how you make out. Suz
#230
Google Goddess
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Central Indiana (USA)
Posts: 30,181
I just found this cute applique ornaments page that you can print out
6 projects (has a cute bear, snowflake, angel, bird, snowman and ornament)
http://www.quiltmaker.com/webextras/...ker/patt39.pdf
6 projects (has a cute bear, snowflake, angel, bird, snowman and ornament)
http://www.quiltmaker.com/webextras/...ker/patt39.pdf
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