shasta5718

I always trace the patterns on a lightweight pelon and save the paper ones. Works great and doesn't tear when you are cutting and pinning. That way you can use the different sizes as well.

citruscountyquilter

I use cheap muslin to make patterns. I use a sharpie to draw around the size I want and it bleeds through onto the muslin. I like the muslin as it will stick to the fabric so I don't have to use as many pins when I'm cutting out my fabric. I draw the grain lines and markings on the muslin along with what pattern it is. If I am trying to match repeats or wonder if I have enough fabric etc. I will make two patterns (like sleeves, fronts etc) and place on a single thickness of my fabric. You can also stitch the pattern together to judge the fit this way too. I buy the cheapest muslin that JoAnn's has by the bolt with a coupon.

AZ Jane

Yep, BUT if you do make the smaller size first AND cut the pattern, you CAN tape it back together!

JAGSD

Pattern Ease carried by many fabric stores will work, or I usually just use freezer paper, though I don't sew clothes much anymore.

Bubbie

Jennr8r, take a deep breath - you will be JUST FINE. I do a LOT of garment making (granddaughter, granddog, etc..), so the pattern thing is going to be ok and reusable. You can go to the local copy store (this is NOT going to be a copyright problem, because this is for YOUR use), some copy stores will have you sign a waiver that the pattern you are coping is for "YOUR USE and NOT FOR SALE". If the pattern is large in size, most stores have a large machine that will take the whole pattern in one shot (you are charged by the sq ft for this - it helps if your pattern has all of the wrinkles out of it too). The other method is to cut your pattern apart (on the largest size - when it has multiple sizes), then you can use a copy machine to take copies of the pattern as you move it around. This will require you to cut and tape the pattern together to make it work. I only use this method on kids cloths because it's too much work. When I take my patterns home I will cut them out and I use a dot of glue to hold to fabric as I cut out, when finished I fold new pattern with sizes written on each one and what it's for (ie: front right, etc...). When all finished I place in a folder with the original pattern, this way I can see the finished product on the original pattern and I have my working pattern with the original. Good luck

kellen46

Here is an old trick I have been using for years. To make a durable pattern paper do this. You will need some white tissue, and some white garbage bags. Go cheap...dollar store cheap for these. cut open the garbage bag so you can use a single layer. Sandwich the plastic between two pieces of tissue paper. Fuse with a hot iron. Be careful not to get any exposed plastic on your iron. If pieces are too small they can be taped together when cooled. I have used them to trace sewing patterns from books, or off of tissue patterns. I have used them to trace quilting pattern and then sewn, sans thread, over the line to make a pounce pattern for my blocks. I have used this technique to strengthen flimsy tissue patterns, just substitute tissue pattern for one side of the tissue/plastic sandwich. I have also used this concept to make some fancy papers very strong, Bonded to map paper to make lampshades, bonded to holographic tissue to make journal covers, really anything that can go under a hot iron. Also I have bonded fabric to tissue to make book cloth...a cloth that is impervious to the moisture of glue when covering book boards to use in book binding. Book cloth is very expensive and limited in color and design. If you make your own you can use any fabric. Book cloth is also good for covering boxes. This is only the things I have come up with so far, I am sure there are lots more uses I have not thought of. What else can all of you come up with. I have an old thrift shop iron I use for this so if I get some plastic on it I can scrape it off later without fear of damage, oh and use a dry iron for this. Another related tip for book binders and box coverers, the cardboard on the back of paper tablets is just as good as commercially bought book board, and it is free, well sort of.

Peckish

Absolutely! This is what I do, and I love it because it's easier to cut out. No pinning. I have one freezer paper pattern I've used 12 times.

madamekelly

I would like to add that whether you buy or trace several copies on paper or some such, if you iron light weight iinterfacing to the back, they wear like iron, and can be used many times. I do this with any pattern I want to keep for future endeavors.

Marysewfun

This is what I do also, only I iron the interfacing to the back of the pattern so the the pattern is still clearly visible and then trace on a tissue or paper for the size of pattern I need at the time and fold everything all back up and keep it in a plastic bag.

Marysewfun

Rose_P

Caution: this might not work because the curves will often cross from one size to the next. Your best bet is to trace it out on cheap but sturdy sew-in type interfacing. It will be much easier to work with and every size can be used. I learned this at a home party for Stretch and Sew in the 1970's and have used that technique many times for patterns that I wanted to use more than once, such as kid's pull-on shorts as they grew through the years. Be sure to trace the markings that indicate grain and the dots that have to match. Use a Sharpie or some such that is permanent and won't smear on your fabric.

I almost forgot to mention that it's important to iron (no steam, low setting) both the interfacing and the tissue pattern before you begin to trace. Best wishes!